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There's no exact spec cause you set the clutch to the way you like it. With the clutch cable adjusted loose. ( the cable adjuster at the clutch handle backed up so thiers alot of free play at the handle). Lossen the lock nut at the clutch pushrod and screw in the adjuster screw till it tightens up. If the handle losses all of the freeplay them back up the cable adjustment even more You may find another adjuster wher the cable enters the engine case. Reconizing the only reason you need to do this is because your putting on a new cable or have installed a new clutch, If you did'nt do any of these repairs the problem that your trying to correct may be a sticking and binding cable. This is a common problem and you pull in the clutch and it's hard to do and you let the clutch out and it slips and engages badly,, With the cable removed ( or loosened up good) It should move very easily in the housing. if it doesn't remove it and move it back an forth all the way and see if it'll loosen up putting it in solvent or rust buster working it back and forth with a good cable lube in it till it works real smooth with little or no resistance. If you can't getr it to work smoothly you need a new cable. with the cable installed loosly turn the screw in till it tightens up and then pull the clutch handle. if the cable is still loose tighten it up till theiers just a little free play ( almost none) This adjusts the cable. Then back out the clutch rod screw trying the handle as you turn the screw till you get a noticeable amount of freeplay at the handle. ( 1/4-1/2 inch) . once completed put the bike in gear and with the bike off and in gear pull the cluch in and rolol the bike slowly letting the cluch out to see where it engages. if it seems good start it up and if it feels good and does'nt grind the gears and starts moving at a reasonable space off the grip, lock all the adjustments and take it for a ride. If the cable acts up any get a new one.
The parts have been installed wrongly. Usually, the clutch plate suppose to fit firmly else combustion would not be achieved. Loosen entirely to asscertain the condition, install properly and tigghten in place. Refer with an auto bike technician when required.
It should be set so that there is about 1/2" play at the lever end before it takes up the clutch mechanism. Make sure the lever isn't bent toward the grip which would restrict it's travel. If the lever is made of aluminum and bent, don't try to straighten it when cold--it will break. Heat the lever with a propane torch until fairly hot, then gently do the straightening. Shift the transmission into first gear, pull the clutch, and try to push the bike to test for release. Don't run the engine until it works as described. If this doesn't work, review the installation of the cable. Hope this helps!
First check cable routing no tight bends this will be obvious ,then check the cable pull arm engine side of cable is located properly if removed.
If no luck check the edges of the clutch basket for notches where the outer edge of the plates touch,if so gently file. Have the same amount of plates gone in that came out.Allso compair plate thickness with old is the kit correct. hope this helps if not contact again.
Take off clutch lever. If it engages fully, check for a worn bearing in lever. Otherwise you have adjusted it improperly or the least possible cause, you did not install spring properly. If when lever is off and clutch still does not engage, remove cable from spring.If clutch engages you either have a faulty cable or somehow you have it bent to far or pinched it..
if it is in gear for sure and it doesnt move even with the clutch engaged maybe you are missing a piece inside the clutch like the clutch boss spring. or possibly your plates are worn so much they wont hook up. or you are using a very poor grade of oil. Dont take my absolute word for all these solutions but these may lead to some problems like that.
It sounds like the clutch must be incorrectly assembled. No offense meant, is is easy to miss one little thing. Go to the site below and look at the clutch diagram. Note that the assembly begins and ends with a friction plate and that a metal pressure plate goes between each friction plate. You should have 7 metal pressure plates and 8 friction plates.
The clutch outer basket seldom goes bad unless hit with a hammer or a tree. Why did it need to be replaced? Did you compare the new OEM hub to the old one? They may have given you the wrong basket. The tighter the cable the less likely the clutch will engage. You should have 1/4" end play at the handlebar lever. By the way, exactly what oil did you put in the gearbox after replacing the clutch? Okay, this is a good start. Post a comment if you need to get back to me.