Spot lights My wire that is running the spot lights gets "hot to the touch" when they are on, when i turn the switch off it is not hot. should i be worried?

Just curious, are touching the bulb/s with bare hands? If so, don't, use a dry clean pair of gloves. Oily residue from your skin may cause a hot spot on bulb, and it will blow. good luck

There are two (2) possible problems.
1. What gauge of wires are you using? If the wire gauge is to small it will cause the wires to heat up because the draw of power needed to light the lights is too heavy of a load. You should use 12 gauge or even 10 gauge wires for the lights. It also would not hurt to put an in-line fuse on the hot wire (usually red) so the fuse blows and doesn't cause a fire.

2. You may have a "dead short" where the hot and neutral wires are cross connected which closes the circuit and generates heat. If the wires heat up when the switch is off I would start at the switch and make sure the connections are good and no wires touch any other wires. You may want to check the wires all the way back to see if any insulation is off and the hot wire (red) isn't touching any metal of the vehicle. Remember that vehicles are grounded to the frame so if a positive wire is bare and is touching any metal at all it will short out.

Hope this helps

I would buy a new wiring connector from a good auto parts store or ford.

you r using a two way switch which only moves up or down it does not matter.if the switch has 4 prongs on it u will connect one wire and turn ur ignition on and use a testing light to see which prong is live when u move the switch .hope this helps

Hi, if its just a single pole 120volt switch, or even a double, you have installed, I am sure the way you took it out is how you put it back but, you have wired the switch to where the hot wire going in or coming out is grounded/shorted against the ground wire. A switch has just 1 hot wire going in, and the same wire coming out, the switch just breaks the voltage at the one wire. Pull it back out and look for any burned spots on the screw terminals to maybe a bare ground wire. It has to be touching at some point to short and trip the breaker. Should be very easy for you to spot. Nothing major, happens sometimes. Please rate me on my help to you. You will find it as soon as you take it out, just look close at the wire where it is touching and you have solved it!
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

What your doing when you touch the test light to that 3rd wire is actually closing the circuit and powering the fan, like the temperature controlled switch should be doing once the engine warms. That sending unit would be screwed into the cooling system where the water can touch it and most likely is in the radiator lower tank or bottom of radiator side tank. Find that sensor and test the wires for power when engine is hot and fan should be on. You could put a toggle switch on it to activate the fan until you get the proper sending unit/sensor.

There is a defrost element installed in the cabinet that is designed to keep condensation (which would lead to icing) from forming on the surface of the fridge. This is normal and there is no switch to turn this off completely.

Your fridge might have an "Energy Saver" switch inside the fridge compartment that you can turn "ON" to reduce the usage of the cabinet heating elements. Turning the switch "ON" turns off the heaters or reduces their power draw; Turning the energy saver switch "OFF" means the heaters are running all the time, thus consuming more energy, etc.

The heaters installed by the dispenser panel are usually not connected to the energy saver circuit, but it varies depending on models and year of manufacture. Either way, it is nothing to worry about as it normal part of the operation of your fridge.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Look for another problem. Try a test light and test for power to the fan. you should get voltage to the fan, the switch grounds it to turn it on. You could have a bad relay follow your wiring under the seat. Test your fan, use Jumper wires w/ alligator clips, one to each wire going to the fan, hook them straight to the battery make sure they do not touch each other. That will tell you if your fan is working. Check back to your plugs look for burnt wiring ck the metal connections look for hot spots or burnt contacts. repost if more help is needed

ok, what I meant was is it a live wire. Assuming it is and setting it aside, The other three must be leaving the switch. Hot in and three out for different speeds. The speeds are controlled downstrean on each wire either by resistors or motor design. The fan motor(s) are grounded at their mounting locations. So, touch the hot wire to each of the others one at a time to confirm. Then, turn the switch to low and insert the hot wire into a terminal until the one that that turns the fan on is found. Turn the switch off to confirm control and then turn switch to confirm control of the other two speeds. No need to worry about shorting anything, The ground would be your only fear and it's far remote. Good luck

The screws behind the steering wheel, holding the horn switch and air bag assembly are too tight. When it gets hot in the car the contacts touch and the horn sounds. By backing off those screws one half turn each should stop the problem. I hope you have the torx drivers and special tips you might need for this tight spot. Good Luck!