I have a 01 flht the has a problem with the voltage or charging system the bike volt gauge sits around 11 volts at idle but when driving the bike around 2 thousand rpm the volt gauge reads at 14 volts the battery was tested seems to be ok no engine light or battery light on any suggestion

SOURCE: charging problem on 2002 929 rr1 blade

I'm thinking your battery is the wrong ah. 8.6 for that type motorcycle is quite low. I would expect around 12 - 14 ah. Actually you should not be draining the battery though. The problem may be in the alternator assy its self. Have you checked all three legs of the charging system coming from the stator? I have found the stator to be the culprit many times in this situation. The bike should not be draining the battery at all if the alternator is charging correctly. What was the oem battery ah that you replaced?

SOURCE: 1996 honda VT1100c2 backfiring & missing when accelerating

Replace Fuel Filter.
Test fuel pump output.
Remove and service carburetors.

SOURCE: voltage reulator puts out 14 volts and engine

It sounds like the voltage regulator is doing what it is supposed to. The charging system should put out between 14-15 volts when the battery is fully charged in your bike.

Now what is causing your engine light to come on is beyond me.

SOURCE: check engine light came on as my volt gauge went from 14 to 11

check wiring loom to alternator,bat connections or lack of volts from alternator

SOURCE: After leaving the last gas

Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.

Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.

Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.

Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.

Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.

Good Luck
Steve

Testimonial: "right on with the test procedure. Battery didn't show it was charging. While the stator test showed 30vac, an ohm test showed it was grounded. Thanks "