Question about 2003 Suzuki GSX-R 600

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What kind of fluid is coming out when i take out the clutch rod?

I recently bend my clutch rod at that time fluid was coming out from the clutch rod hole..it may be low because now at a good speed in 6th gear it feels like a its sipping for fluid and starts to tug..so im thinking now its that fluid as it was leaking out..i never replaced that lost fluid..but need to know what fluid is it that came out?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: when to change a clutch

Clutch life all comes down to how you ride it, and more so how much you slip it. I've seen how alot of people ride and honestly wouldn't be suprised if they needed new clutches before they hit 10k miles... makes me cringe hearing them take off from a stop. I think to myself.... "what did that clutch ever do to you?? " LOL But yea if you're not running evergy conserving oil, and there's plenty of freeplay in the lever, then it sounds like it's clutch time. There's no set mileage interval for clutches, just depends on how each individual one is treated. On my bike I've got 113k on the original factory clutch and it's still fine... no slippage at all. My buddies Suzuki Bandit was on it's 3rd clutch by 40k or so (but that bike had other problems too). My Accord I got 321k out of the original factory clutch, and it never started slipping just broke a damper spring on the clutch disc and jammed the clutch. I've known of a woman with a brand new Hyundai that burnt the clutch out in 1000 miles (yea she didn't know how to drive manual... at all). It's all relative Sounds like you need a clutch th

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 200 Answers

SOURCE: every time i feel my clutch revior with dot4 break it leaks out

could be going insde the clutch housing ,but no matter what you need to get this fixed cause it's gonna break down somewhere you may not want to be stuck ( far from home) get it to your mech right away....Good Luck to you friend...Tim

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Clutch wont engage after kickstarter shaft installation.

The clutch lever must have been pushed in when i tried to install the push rod the first time so the push rod didn't get pushed in all the way.

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Posted on May 30, 2009

bozcro
  • 867 Answers

SOURCE: clutch engageing at start up

if your clutch is adjusted properly, it should not be doing that anyway, even if it is contaminated with gasoline. make sure clutch is properly adjusted, and if that doesnt work you made need to remove the clutch plates and clean them and lightly sand them to remove the fuel from the composite plates, fuel on them will make clutching operation jerky. they will clean themselves over time and a few oil changes if thats easier for you

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

luckyluke78
  • 333 Answers

SOURCE: on a rm 250g 1986 on the engine what oil goes in refill hole

You use normal engine oil in the engine(SAE 30).DO NOT use gearbox oil or clutch fluid as you will get problems with your clutch.

Please leave a fair comment if you feel I have helped you.

Thank you

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

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1 Answer

Need help bleeding clutch on my 05 v-rod


As the clutch wears the fluid level in the reservoir will rise so the initial fluid level should not exceed the FILL LEVEL. And the motorcycle must be upright and the handlebars set to level the fluid in the clutch reservoir.


When filling an empty clutch fluid line, a VACUUM BRAKE BLEEDER with a fitting that mates to the secondary clutch actuator bleeder screw threads can be used to draw the fluid down the clutch line and the air out of the system.


Take off the clutch fluid reservoir cover and then initially loosen the banjo bolt just enough to allow air bubbles to escape. Be careful because clutch fluid under pressure can squirt a steady stream a long way.


Hold the reservoir cover in place and pump the clutch hand lever 5 times or so and then hold the clutch hand lever against the handlebar and with a shop towel under the fitting loosen the banjo bolt and watch fro air bubbles to be released and then retighten the banjo fitting and only after it is tight release the hand lever. Check and refill the reservoir with fluid to the FILL LEVEL line and repeat the previous step three or more times and until only a steady flow of clutch fluid without air bubbles escapes from the banjo fitting at all times keeping the clutch fluid level in the reservoir at the FILL LEVEL with motorcycle in an upright position.


THEN remove the secondary clutch actuator cover, cover the exhaust pipe(s) with towels and place a suitable pan under the right side case to catch excess clutch fluid THEN while holding the reservoir cover in place pump the clutch hand lever 5 or more times, then hold the clutch hand lever against the handlebar and loosen the secondary clutch actuator bleed screw and watch the bleed screw for air bubbles. When the hand lever touches the hand grip hold it there without releasing it until the bleed screw has been tightened again and then release the hand lever., refill the fluid reservoir to the FILL LINE and repeat the previous steps, always keeping the fluid reservoir full of fluid, until a steady stream of fluid with no air bubbles coming from the bleed screw. When there is no more air coming out leave the bleeder screw tight and fill the reservoir with fluid to the FILL LINE.AUTION


THEN test pressure by squeezing clutch hand lever repeatedly does not build pressure in the hand lever and the fluid level does not remain at the FILL LINE then there is a leak somewhere and it will have to be located and fixed. If there is no visible leak check the secondary clutch actuator boot for leakage.


When there is no evidence of leakage and the clutch lever works properly and the fluid in the reservoir is at the FILL LINE install the reservoir cap and insert and tighten the fasteners to 0.7-0.9 Nm (6-8 in-lbs); the reservoir banjo bolt to 23-31 Nm (17-23 ft-lbs); the bleed screw to 9-11 Nm (80-100 in-lbs); the secondary clutch actuator cover fasteners to 6-10 Nm (53-88 in-lbs) and then test ride the motorcycle.


If the clutch does not have correct pressure you may have a dragging clutch and/or hard shifting.

Jun 12, 2014 | 2004 Harley Davidson VRSCA V-Rod

1 Answer

I recently bend my clutch rod at that time fluid was coming out from the clutch rod hole..it may be low because now at a good speed in 6th gear it feels like a its sipping for fluid and starts to tug.


have you replaced the clutch rod and seal if it was leaking before it may be low on fluid ,did a small ball bearing come out of the hole when you removed the shaft and if it did ,did you replace it ,to bend a clutch rod there is useally a problem before that ,this maybe a good time to take it to your bike dealer for a inspection as there could be a underlying problem that will only get worse .i hope this helps

Apr 23, 2014 | 2003 Suzuki GSX-R 600

1 Answer

I hardly have any clutch pedal and have to press it all the way to the floor to engage. Time for a new clutch?


Before condemning the clutch, check the clutch hydraulics. If the hydraulics are failing, the clutch it self could be fine. In your engine compartment, there should be two aluminum cylinders coming out of the fire wall. One will be attached to the brake booster and the other directy to the fire wall. Check the fluid level in the one at the fire wall. Top it off with Dot 3 brake fluid. CAUTION! Brakefluid will damage the paint on your car, so if you spill any on it or touch the surface with a fluid saturated rag, rinse it off with water!
If the fluid level is low, top it off and then pump the pedal rapidl rapiidly. It should come up to a normal height for a short period of time at which point you should be able to drive the car and see if the clutch it self feels normal, No slippage and no grinding of gears. The fluid loss is usually from the master cylinder. From inside the car, with a small light, follow the clutch pedal up to where the rod the pedal pushes can be seen entering the fire wall. Look for traces of fluid leaking out of the back of the cylinder. If the clutch master cylinder has failed, I usually recommend replacing the slave cylinder at the same time.

Aug 12, 2011 | 2005 Subaru Legacy

2 Answers

I have a 1991 jeep wrangler the clutch fluid keeps getting real low


clutch fluid level droppin means that ur clutch master cylinder is leaking,u can check by looking inside car where pushrod goes thru firewall to see if its wet with brake fluid where rod comes thru wall inside car, a wet ,stained carpet.the other possibility is ur clutch slave cylinder located at side of ur transmission,usually drvr side is leaking fluid.if this is the case u will notice clear brake fluid at the bottom center of ur trans,right where it butts up towards ur engine. anyhow its a good idea to replace both pieces at same time to avoid any further issues with clutch pedal. good luck hope this helps

May 01, 2011 | 1991 Jeep Wrangler

2 Answers

Clutch suddenly has no resistance and car won't shift gears. Fluids were low, have put fluid in the reservoir but still doesn't work. How do you bleed a clutch line?


on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

Jan 14, 2011 | 1995 Nissan Pickup

1 Answer

My clutch was wokin good and then all of a suddent there was no pressure on my clutch so i checked and it had to dot 3 fluid in it so i put sum in but it leaked it out rite away it came out on driverside...


It sounds like the rubber seal on the Clutch Slave Cylinder piston has completely failed. You will need to replace the Slave Cylinder Assembly. To replace, undo the union nut that attaches the pipe from the master cylinder and then undo the bolts that attach the assembly to the engine/transmission. Remove the push rod from the old cylinder and place in the new. Reattach Cylinder Assembly and pipe, making sure push rod engages in socket of clutch operating fork. Bleeding the system is as follows.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line). It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.

Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving. If the Slave cylinder does not have a bleed nipple the union nut that attaches the fluid pipe can be used for bleeding. However, it is a bit harder to observe when all air is purged and of course very messy as fluid will drip everywhere.

It also pays to check that the clutch pedal free travel is within specification (about ¼ inch measured at the pedal rubber) to ensure the hydraulic system works properly. This is done by adjusting the push rod that links the pedal arm to the piston in the master cylinder. Adjust by first loosening the locknut on the rod at the end where it attaches to the pedal arm and turning the rod in either direction to obtain the correct free travel. One adjusted retighten locknut.

Oct 12, 2010 | 1994 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

How to bleed the clutch on a saturn 97


one way to bleed it is by pulling the piston like slave cylinder with the rod out of the transmission and by pushing the rod into the slave cylinder several times, make sure you have plenty of dot3 brake fluid in the clutch master slave before you do this. by pushing the rod into the slave cylinder it acts like doing a brake job it bleeds the air out into the clutch master slave cylinder and sucks in the break fluid getting rid of all air in the system. thats the only way to bleed those systems seeing as they are sealed systems

Aug 22, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

1992 Chevy Silverado - Clutch Slave Cylinder broke


JB weld will not work get it welded by a pro with the proper hi frequency welder otherwise you will have to replace the box ,and yes get a new cylinder ,hope you get sorted

Mar 03, 2010 | 1992 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

1994 FORD RANGER STANDARD TRANS CLUTCH WON'T ENGAGE


The only adjustment you'll probably need is to get the air out of the clutch line. Loosen the bleeder screw, and put a two or three foot vacuum line on it. Submerse the other end of the line in a bottle of brake fluid. Pump the clutch untill no more bubbles are coming out of the hose into the bottle. Be sure to keep the reservoir topped up while you do this. Hold the clutch down, and tighten the bleeder screw. Some hydraulic clutches do have an adjustment on the rod that goes from the slave cyllinder to the pressure plate. I'm not sure about yours. If there is a nut on the rod, you can adjust it somewhat. You want it set so that there is just a little bit of play between the rod and the pressure plate where the rod goes. If none of this helps, you mayneed to replace the slave cyllinder.

Sep 27, 2009 | 2000 Ford Focus

1 Answer

Leaking fluid at the clutch pedal


rod activates master clutch cyl and has lost the seals in the master-fluid is migrating back on rod

Apr 09, 2009 | 1984 Toyota Pickup Deluxe

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