Question about 2003 Suzuki GSX-R 600
I recently bend my clutch rod at that time fluid was coming out from the clutch rod hole..it may be low because now at a good speed in 6th gear it feels like a its sipping for fluid and starts to tug..so im thinking now its that fluid as it was leaking out..i never replaced that lost fluid..but need to know what fluid is it that came out?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: when to change a clutch
Clutch life all comes down to how you ride it, and more so how much you slip it. I've seen how alot of people ride and honestly wouldn't be suprised if they needed new clutches before they hit 10k miles... makes me cringe hearing them take off from a stop. I think to myself.... "what did that clutch ever do to you?? " LOL But yea if you're not running evergy conserving oil, and there's plenty of freeplay in the lever, then it sounds like it's clutch time. There's no set mileage interval for clutches, just depends on how each individual one is treated. On my bike I've got 113k on the original factory clutch and it's still fine... no slippage at all. My buddies Suzuki Bandit was on it's 3rd clutch by 40k or so (but that bike had other problems too). My Accord I got 321k out of the original factory clutch, and it never started slipping just broke a damper spring on the clutch disc and jammed the clutch. I've known of a woman with a brand new Hyundai that burnt the clutch out in 1000 miles (yea she didn't know how to drive manual... at all). It's all relative Sounds like you need a clutch th
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
could be going insde the clutch housing ,but no matter what you need to get this fixed cause it's gonna break down somewhere you may not want to be stuck ( far from home) get it to your mech right away....Good Luck to you friend...Tim
Posted on May 14, 2009
The clutch lever must have been pushed in when i tried to install the push rod the first time so the push rod didn't get pushed in all the way.
Posted on May 30, 2009
SOURCE: clutch engageing at start up
if your clutch is adjusted properly, it should not be doing that anyway, even if it is contaminated with gasoline. make sure clutch is properly adjusted, and if that doesnt work you made need to remove the clutch plates and clean them and lightly sand them to remove the fuel from the composite plates, fuel on them will make clutching operation jerky. they will clean themselves over time and a few oil changes if thats easier for you
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
You use normal engine oil in the engine(SAE 30).DO NOT use gearbox oil or clutch fluid as you will get problems with your clutch.
Please leave a fair comment if you feel I have helped you.
Posted on Aug 23, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
As the clutch wears the fluid level in the reservoir will rise so the initial fluid level should not exceed the FILL LEVEL. And the motorcycle must be upright and the handlebars set to level the fluid in the clutch reservoir.
When filling an empty clutch fluid line, a VACUUM BRAKE BLEEDER with a fitting that mates to the secondary clutch actuator bleeder screw threads can be used to draw the fluid down the clutch line and the air out of the system.
Take off the clutch fluid reservoir cover and then initially loosen the banjo bolt just enough to allow air bubbles to escape. Be careful because clutch fluid under pressure can squirt a steady stream a long way.
Hold the reservoir cover in place and pump the clutch hand lever 5 times or so and then hold the clutch hand lever against the handlebar and with a shop towel under the fitting loosen the banjo bolt and watch fro air bubbles to be released and then retighten the banjo fitting and only after it is tight release the hand lever. Check and refill the reservoir with fluid to the FILL LEVEL line and repeat the previous step three or more times and until only a steady flow of clutch fluid without air bubbles escapes from the banjo fitting at all times keeping the clutch fluid level in the reservoir at the FILL LEVEL with motorcycle in an upright position.
THEN remove the secondary clutch actuator cover, cover the exhaust pipe(s) with towels and place a suitable pan under the right side case to catch excess clutch fluid THEN while holding the reservoir cover in place pump the clutch hand lever 5 or more times, then hold the clutch hand lever against the handlebar and loosen the secondary clutch actuator bleed screw and watch the bleed screw for air bubbles. When the hand lever touches the hand grip hold it there without releasing it until the bleed screw has been tightened again and then release the hand lever., refill the fluid reservoir to the FILL LINE and repeat the previous steps, always keeping the fluid reservoir full of fluid, until a steady stream of fluid with no air bubbles coming from the bleed screw. When there is no more air coming out leave the bleeder screw tight and fill the reservoir with fluid to the FILL LINE.AUTION
THEN test pressure by squeezing clutch hand lever repeatedly does not build pressure in the hand lever and the fluid level does not remain at the FILL LINE then there is a leak somewhere and it will have to be located and fixed. If there is no visible leak check the secondary clutch actuator boot for leakage.
When there is no evidence of leakage and the clutch lever works properly and the fluid in the reservoir is at the FILL LINE install the reservoir cap and insert and tighten the fasteners to 0.7-0.9 Nm (6-8 in-lbs); the reservoir banjo bolt to 23-31 Nm (17-23 ft-lbs); the bleed screw to 9-11 Nm (80-100 in-lbs); the secondary clutch actuator cover fasteners to 6-10 Nm (53-88 in-lbs) and then test ride the motorcycle.
If the clutch does not have correct pressure you may have a dragging clutch and/or hard shifting.
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It sounds like the rubber seal on the Clutch Slave Cylinder piston has completely failed. You will need to replace the Slave Cylinder Assembly. To replace, undo the union nut that attaches the pipe from the master cylinder and then undo the bolts that attach the assembly to the engine/transmission. Remove the push rod from the old cylinder and place in the new. Reattach Cylinder Assembly and pipe, making sure push rod engages in socket of clutch operating fork. Bleeding the system is as follows.
1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line). It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.
2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.
3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.
4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving. If the Slave cylinder does not have a bleed nipple the union nut that attaches the fluid pipe can be used for bleeding. However, it is a bit harder to observe when all air is purged and of course very messy as fluid will drip everywhere.
It also pays to check that the clutch pedal free travel is within specification (about ¼ inch measured at the pedal rubber) to ensure the hydraulic system works properly. This is done by adjusting the push rod that links the pedal arm to the piston in the master cylinder. Adjust by first loosening the locknut on the rod at the end where it attaches to the pedal arm and turning the rod in either direction to obtain the correct free travel. One adjusted retighten locknut.
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