Question about Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail Classic Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
Could be or the front brakes or the wrong bulb ie a two element in a one element socket or a one elemsnt in a two element socket or a two element improperly insatlled in a two element socket.
Posted on Oct 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Brake pedal won't return.
There could be a couple reasons for this. First thing to check is your return spring, is it still there and attached properly? Next thing to check is your master cylinder pressure release. Loosen the bleed nipple on the rear caliper. Does the brake release now? If so, your master cylinder has some debris clogging the fluid return passageway. Remove and clean it. If the brake still does not release after opening the bleed nipple, at least one of your caliper pistons is binding. Remove the rear caliper and the brake pads. Now press the pedal and force the pistons out. Looses the bleed nipple and attempt to press the pistons back into place. They should move smoothly when you apply firm pressure. Clean the caliper thoroughly. If you have a rebuild kit for the caliper this is a good time to rebuild it. After cleaning, put it back together, bleed the brakes and test again. It is normal for disk brakes to drag SLIGHTLY on the rotor, but they should not stop a free spinning wheel in less than a coupld revolutions when spun by hand.
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
To change the switch, first unplug the wires at the switch. Screw the old switch out and install the new switch into the tee connector. Do not depress either brake lever while the switch is out. Tighten the switch and reconnect the wires.
Usually you don't have to bleed any air out of the brake system but check the rear brakes for proper operaion. If the rear brake pedal goes too far down, bleed the brakes at the rear caliper. Make sure you don't run the rear brake master cylinder dry while bleeding the rear brake. Use only the approved type of brake fluid, do not mix the different types of fluid. Make sure the rear brakes are working properly before riding the bike.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
Follow the brake line from the rear of the rear brake master cylinder until you get to a round metal thing with two wires attached to it screwed into a Tee fitting. This is the rear brake light switch.
Posted on Apr 04, 2010
SOURCE: how to replace rear brake pads
To get the rear caliper off, remove the two torx head bolts. Lift the rear brake off of the caliper bracket. The pads and the anti-rattle clips remain in the bracket. Set the caliper aside but do not allow it to hang by the hose as this can damage the hose. Do not crimp the hose.
Look closely at the pads and the steel clips on either end of the caliper bracket to determine how they go on the bracket. Replace the pads and steel clips.
You must then compress the piston back into the caliper. I used either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you cover your caliper with something so as not to damage the paint. Compress the piston all the way back into it's bore.
Replace the caliper back down onto the caliper bracket being careful not to disturb the pads or clips. Reinstall the two bolts and torque to 20 foot pounds.
Slowly depress and release the rear brake pedal until you get a full firm feeling pedal. Test brakes before riding the bike. Improperly serviced brakes can cause serious injury or death. Make sure you have done the job correctly. Good Luck, Steve
Posted on May 05, 2010
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