Question about 2003 Suzuki RM 125

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Clutch rm 125

When i put my bike into gear it does not move in any gear nothing happens i think it might be clutch slippage not sure any help would be great.

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  • hyotprymid Jun 20, 2009

    ive owned the bike for about 4 years, 2000 rm 125 have never changed the oil or done anywork on the clutch other than a couple of levers and cable.It worked fine but i didnt ride for it one year and when i got back on it id start it up and put it 1st gear and nothing would happen???

  • hyotprymid Jun 20, 2009

    thanks a lot ill give it a try. ps i cheched the oil and there was enough in the gear box and drained some out and it didnt look that dirty.

  • hyotprymid Jun 20, 2009

    just curious what would be the worst case senario to fix the problem?

  • hyotprymid Jun 20, 2009

    just curious what would be the worst case senario to fix the problem?

  • hyotprymid Jun 20, 2009

    thanks ill get into that by the end of the week and let u know how it turned out

  • hyotprymid Jun 23, 2009

    i removed the clutch plates and they look ok the no wear that i can tell,theres some wear in the basket at the back inside but when i removed the basket theres a washer that was bent inwards could that have been rubbing on the clutch plates any help would be great!

  • hyotprymid Jun 24, 2009

    im almost positive all the parts are there,the plates look like theres like no wear on them at all could they still be worn down but just cant tell? ,i dont have i micrometer to tell.but when i was talking the parts off i would keep checking my clutch to see if i could see the problem i think the push rod is supposed to push somthing that opens the plates but when i pull the clutch lever in the rod barley if any moves.and for the basket theres like some scratches on the inside where the last plate would go but nothing that i would think would do anything........would it be worth it to just buy a clutch plate kit and go from there?

  • hyotprymid Jun 25, 2009

    i think ive found the problem the basket haves groves where the ends of the clutch plates sit in the basket .the groves or notches are so smooth they looked factory .know of anywhere i can find a cheap clutch basket? ps what kind of grease should i used when putting everything back togather. thanks

  • hyotprymid Jun 25, 2009

    the slots on the basket were the tabs of friction plates sit in there notches all along the slots pretty deep too,i cheched the push rod its straight , the hub that goes in between the plates has some wear little notching but i think i can file them out, im not sure how to check the cam arm shaft and bearing ....do i have to take the magneto off i dont have a gear puller(or specail tool)

  • hyotprymid Jun 27, 2009

    i dont have digital cam right now sorry

  • hyotprymid Jun 29, 2009

    i grinded down the notches on the basket with a dremel and its working right know but when i was torqing down the clutch spring i broke the head off one of the bolts and now its stuck in the hub,would it be alright to ride for a couple of weeks with just four clutch springs until i get a knew basket and get that bolt out of the hub?

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Okay, this may take a couple of comments back and forth but I can get you back on the road. First, Have you done any work on the clutch lately? If so, what and why? Did the clutch work okay after the work? Have you changed gearbox oil in the last month or so? If so, EXACTLY what oil did you put in the gearbox? i.e. "10w40 Mobil Super Blue fluid with silicone friction limiters". Just post a comment to get back to me.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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  • tombones Jun 20, 2009

    That is just the type of info I needed. Start by draining out the old oil. Put 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. Don't go cheap on me by just adding oil to the gear box. CHANGE THE OIL. Now let the engine warm up, then see if the clutch works. Get back to me after the oil change.



    Use TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL in the oil pump. If not using an automatic oil pump, then mix the gas and oil 32 to 1. That equals 4 ounces of TWO STROKE ENGINE OIL to one gallon of gas. NEVER use motor oil in the gas. Only two stroke engine oil.

  • tombones Jun 20, 2009

    So you have good oil, glad to hear it. Worst case is that you take it to a dealer and they charge you the usual $80 an hour to find and fix the problem, total cost around $270. Any reason not to fix it yourself? Since the bike has standard motor oil in the gearbox (it IS just plain old oil w/o synthetics or fancy additives isn't it?), and the clutch was fine the last time you rode it, All that should need to be done is to pull the right side cover, remove the 5 screws holding the springs, remove the clutch end cap then inspect the plates. You will need an impact driver to loosen and tighten the case screws and a 3/8" drive metric socket set. Both of the tools are about $20 each at Sears.



    Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

  • tombones Jun 23, 2009

    The bent washer isn't helping things. But why was the clutch okay previously? A new washer is $3.00, get one. Look at the diagram below. Check the push rod by rolling it on a flat surface. Is the rod bent at all? Are all parts to the clutch there; the needle bearing and pusher? The outer hub needle bearing and collar? Are all parts in the right sequence? Look at the 1st and last friction plate (green) are they in the proper place? Are the firicion plates alternating with the metal pressure plates ; friction - pressure - friction - pressure and so on? Do you have a venier caliper or micrometer that you can measure the thickness of the plates with? Tell me more about the wear on the outer basket.





  • tombones Jun 24, 2009




    The bearing could be bad. The "cam" could be worn out. The push rod could be bent. Pull the rod out from the left side of the casing. Roll it on a flat surface. Does it roll smoothly or "lumpy". The push rod should move 1/8 to 3/16 inch when the clutch lever is pulled.



    Ya know ya gotta give me a "Very Helpful" rating don't ya? Rule number 74c says so. I know because I just wrote the rule.

  • tombones Jun 25, 2009

    Are you talking about the metal pressure plates on the inner hub have worn the hub? Or that the fiber friction plates have worn the outside basket? I don't think this is the problem. You said there was like no movement in the push rod. Did you check the rod and clutch arm shaft and bearing? What was found? No grease is used at all except for the clutch arm bearing and push rod. The motor oil does the internal parts.











  • tombones Jun 26, 2009

    The flywheel does not need to come off. Could you email some really close up digital photos of the clutch arm where it contacts the push rod? Several different angles please. Take a shot or two of the clutch notches you want to file. Email to tombones49@gmail.com

  • tombones Jun 27, 2009

    Okay. Here is the cost, (from Babbit's), of replacing the main parts of the clutch and lever assemblies. These are original Suzuki parts, not aftermarket parts.



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