Question about Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
The voltmeter test provides a general indicatorof battery condition. Check the voltage of the battery to verify that it is in a 100% fully charged condition. If the open circuit (disconnected) voltage reading is below 12.6V, charge the battery and then recheck the voltage after the battery has set for one to two hours. If the voltage reading is 12.8V or above, perform the load test described below.
The load test measures battery performance under full current load and is the best indicator of battery condition. Load testing a battery tat is not FULLY CHARGED i.e. at 12.8 VDC can permanently damage it. Fully charge it first and then let it stand for at least an hour before the load test is done. You also need a load tester. AND you should know how to perform a load test. Often the best way to load test a battery will be to take it to a battery shop and have it done there.
VOLTAGE (OCV) STATE OF CHARGE FOR AGM BATTERIES IS:
12.8 VDC = 100%
12.6 VDC = 75%
12.3 VDC = 50%
12.0 VDC = 25%
11.8 VDC = 0%
COLD CRANKING AMPERAGE (CCA) for an XLH battery is 270
19 AMP HOUR BATTERY =
BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE = 12.8 VDC = 100% Charge; Rate of Charge = N/A
BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE = 12.6 VDC = 75% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = 1.75 hours @ 6 AMP = 50 minutes @ 10 AMP = 30 minutes @ 20 AMP = 15 minutes
BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE = 12.3 VDC = 50% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = 3.5 hours @ 6 AMP = 1.75 hours @!10 AMP = 1 hour @ 20 AMP = 30 minutes
BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE = 12.0 VDC = 25% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = 5 hours @ 6 AMP = 2.5 hours @ 10 AMP = 1.5 hours @ 20 AMP = 45 minutes
BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE = 11.8 VDC = 0% Charge; Rate of Charge @ 3 AMP = 6 hours, 40 minutes @ 6 AMP = 3 hours, 20 minutes @ 10 AMP = 2 hours @ 20 AMP = 1 hour
The figures listed above assume that the battery is charging at room temperature. If warmer than room temperature, use a slightly shorter charging time. If colder, use a slightly longer charging time.
The use of constant current chargers to charge maintenance-free batteries is not recommended. Any overcharge
will cause dry-out and premature battery failure. If a constant current charger is the only type available, do not exceed the charge times listed above and do not continue charging the battery if it gets hot. When charging, never exceed 15 volts for more than 30 minutes.
If the battery gets hotter than 110 degrees F. (43 degrees C) during charging, discontinue charger and allow the battery to cool. Overheating may result in plate distortion, internal shorting, dry out and/or other damage.
COLD CRANKING AMPERAGE (CCA) for a 2001 XLH battery is 270
Posted on Oct 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: starter not always turning motor
Possible solution. You probably know that harleys, unlike almost all the others used a bendix type to shove the starter motor's gears into engagement with the starter clutch. Since you replace the solenoid, the thing that pushes the gears into engagement; the battery, that would push the starter motor if the gears were in engaagement; and the starter motor, which would turn the ring gear if it was in engagement. So wht's left? Unfortunately it sound like it might be the teeth on either the ring gear or the bendix gear, probably the ring gear as it was notoriously weak on iron sportys. Not a problem you want to try to fix at home unless blessed with tools, room and time.
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
It sounds electrical and as it's a Sporty, I suggest a temperature-related dry joint opening up in the wiring. One popular candidate would be the earthing strap. It's worth checking continuity with a VOM when engine is hot. It may have a vibration crack. 66C is quite cool for a sportster oil temperature, so I guess you have this problem on every long ride? Good Luck.
Posted on May 21, 2009
Ok, let's start back over again. To properly adjust the clutch, you MUST do it in a particular method due to the design of the release mechanism.
First, you must "unadjust" the cable. Find the cable adjuster and "unadjust" it making the cable as short as possible, lots of freeplay in the cable.
Then, remove the clutch access cover and remove the spring and the "lockplate" that looks like a nut with a stem on it.
Turn the clutch adjusting screw counterclockwise to remove all the free play.
Now, back off on the screw 1/4 turn.
Then reinstall the "lockplate". if it doesn't want to go back in, you may have to rotate the adjusting screw clockwise just enough to get it back in. Put the spring back in and put the clutch access cover back on.
Readjust the cable so that you have a freeplay at the clutch lever of about a eighth (1/8") inch freeplay or about the thickness of a nickle.
Lock everything down and this should be correct.
I have found that sometimes you have to "tweak" the cable adjustment to get a clutch to engage exactly where a particular rider wants it to start engaging. This is a preference type thing and has to be done on a "trial and error" basis with the cable adjustment. But, you must use this method to adjust the clutch down at the engine end of the cable. Good Luck!
Posted on Dec 20, 2009
"Backfiring" is a pretty broad term depending on where you live. Some people refer to backfiring as popping from the exhaust while others refer to it as the engine spitting through the carburetor.
I'll assume that you're talking about popping out the exhaust pipe. If it does this after you rev the engine and it backfires on the way back down to idle, this is typical of an exhaust system sucking air. The mixture is extremely rich under these circumstances and will not ignite. But, if your exhaust system is sucking air, it combines with the fuel air mixture already there and bring it to an explosive mixture thus the backfire.
You can check you valves but I've always found that if the valves on an Ironhead are too tight, it's extremely difficult to get it started due to the low compression on that cylinder.
Check you ignition timing and points setting. Also, what kind of condition is your mechanical advance in the distributor in? I'm assuming this is an XLH model and not the magneto equipped XLCH.
What type of carburetor is on the engine? Hopefully not the original Tillotson that it came with. If it's an S&S, the low jet should be a 28 and the main jet a 66 to 70.
Posted on Jun 11, 2010
Ok, If you are absolutely sure the battery is good, there are several possibilites. If the battery is over a year old, take it to an automotive parts store and ask them if they can load test it. They'll usually do this at no charge.
If the battery is good, the first problem could be in the starter relay. Look at the end of the starter from the right side of the bike. You'll see a plate on the end that is roughly shaped like a pentagon. Just above that plate is a plug with a single wire. Unplug this wire and use either a test light or a digital volt ohm meter to check for voltage when you press the starter button. If you do NOT have voltage and the clicking you are hearing is coming from under the seat, you probably need a starter relay.
If you have 12 volts on that wire, you're problem is in the starter. Disconnect the negative cable from your battery. Now, take the three small screws out of the back of the starter that holds the pentagon shaped plate on. Underneath the plate is a plunger and a spring. Remove these parts and look at the copper contacts on either side of the solenoid and on the plunger. If they are burned badly, you need to replace them. You can get the parts through an aftermarket supplier and they are not very difficult to replace. Usually, it can be done without removing the starter. Simply replace the contacts and a new plunger comes with the parts kit. Reassemble the starter, reconnect the battery cable, and you should be ready to go.
Posted on Jul 05, 2010
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