Question about Motorcycles
You shouldn't be messing with the throttle bodies if you don't personally know what your doing. it's not like carburation. very finicky.
Posted on Apr 24, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Carb Sync on an 01 YZF 600R
Here is a diagram showing the tubes you connect your vacuum gauges to.
The YZF600R is carbureted, so I do not know what you mean by throttle body adjustments.
Synchronizing carburetors means adjusting the throttle plates (butterflies) so that all cylinders are drawing the same amount of vacuum.
Here is a diagram of the carbs. Screw #31 is the screw used to change the sync.
Remember one other key point, all carbs are sync'ed to the #3 carb. You cannot change the vacuum (directly) on #3. It is usually best to start by syncing #2 to #3, then #4, then #1. Changing #2 can affect the sync on #1 so you definitely want to do 1 after 2 no matter what. If you have one cylinder WAY out of sync, that would be an exception to the previous rule where you would want to attempt to get that cylinder in the ball park of the others before fine tuning each cylinder.
Syncing the carbs is an alternating process between adjusting the vacuum then adjusting the idle. If they were out of sync, bringing them back in, or even getting close, can cause the idle to raise because the engine isn't fighting itself anymore. Always keep the engine idling @ 1100 rpm's while syncing.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
SOURCE: On a 1986 kawasaki ninja
This may differ from model to model, as a rough guide with standard jetting, 2.5 to 3 turns out, screw the air corrector screw home (in) all the way until it stops using no force, as soon as you feel it is home stop, then unscrew the screw 5 half turns which equates to 2.5 full turns as a base setting, any furter addjustments should be done in half turn increments in or out untill the bike runs at its best
Posted on Apr 10, 2011
Hello, the leak may be caused by the carb gaskets or seals drying out and splitting if the bike has been sat idle for a while.It may well be that the float for that carb is punctured and sits at the bottom of the float chamber. This will cause the needle valve to stay open and will allow the carb to flood all the time and fuel will leak.
Best advice I can give is be careful, get a manual, draw pictures or take photographs. Work in a well ventilated space with a markd out area for dismantling the carb.Do one carb at a time and do not mix any parts. As you dismantle parts use indelible marker or a small screwdriver to scratch location lines for re-assembly. Never trust your memory if it is going to take more than one hour to complete.
Make sure that you have the spares to complete the task befor taking anything apart.
Use masking tape to hold small parts in the sequence that they are dismantled.
Do not let your mates or children touch anything
Make sure the battery is disconnected before you start any work on the fuel system
Good luck jamesey555
Posted on Aug 06, 2011
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