Question about 2000 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

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2000 Kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan keeps blowing ignition fuse

I keep blowing the 10amp ing. fuse, sometimes as soon as I turn the kill switch & other times as its cranking over. I traced my wires & found some broke. I took gas tank, headlight, seat, & all side covers off & cant find anything wrong. but the stater is unplug the ele connection is melted for some reason. I bought it last year & rode it just a few times it got cold out. I did not know anything about the stater till I pulled the cover off now but it rode & ran fine. Thanks jeff

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 48,460 Answers

Hi, Jeff before diagnosing your blown fuse issue check the bottom of your seat if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses also you need to fix your stator plug first before proceeding.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with and ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any number reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Ignition fuse keeps blowing
VN1500 keeps on blowing fuse
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2000 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

Posted on Jun 04, 2017

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SOURCE: kickstand kill switch inop

Connect the two wires together that goes to the kickstand it should keep it from starting. With wires unpluged it should start.
If that is the case you need a switch

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

MakisRC51
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SOURCE: Jet Ski Won't Start when Engine is cold

You must take out completely the carbs and clean them especially their canisters with the flowters.They may have jelled gas inside or closed air pipes.Use a carb cleaner spray and compressed air.

Posted on May 26, 2009

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SOURCE: how to remove side cover on vn2000 for fuse replacement?

Kind of a pain. You have to hold the nut under the battery cover screw that goes through the side cover. Otherwise the screw just spins.

Posted on Mar 11, 2010

  • 5370 Answers

SOURCE: Kawasaki ZZR1100 C2: Fairing

If the fuel supply is working ok, and filter is already replaced then other possibilities causing this problem can be :------- Bad ignition triger advance.
Stuck air mass meter flap.
Bad HT coil connection.
---------How's the air filter - clean or dirty? Remove the filter and try running without filter.Just try if for checking purpose. If it runs smooth with filter removed, then air filter is the issue.------- The handbook warns against running without a filter in case any dirt gets sucked in, so make sure the airbox is clean before you start it without the filter. If the filter is really sticky I would suspect it does need a clean. --------The electrical connections on the air flow meter (maf) also require cleaning or at least checking.-------- Also recheck the fuel filters position.I agree its replaced, but still remove and recheck fuel filters position.-------- There is an arrow indicating the direction of the flow.
A good pressure doesn't indicates a good flow and your engine may be starving for fuel.What fuel grade are you filling up the tank with? A lower grade of fuel may causes problems too.
Sometimes things as simple as a bad spark plug cap will generate the same problem.
Also, try to start your bike in a dark area and check if you see any sparks on the coils. You can even mist them with water (when the engine is off) and it will make it easier to see if you have a crack in the insulation.
--------Also the fuel regulator / air flow metering unit could be stiff and responding slowly, that would result in the symptoms you describe. Have you checked it is moving freely?--------Also look for a leak in a manifold, even lose clamps on the rubber stacks. The next is a bad pressure regulator, that makes the fuel richen when the manifold pressure drops off and so would make it bog on initial throttle opening.------------This can mean a few things; partially blocked fuel filter, faulty pump (worm or leaking relief valve), tank not properly breathing, ehh, no doubt there's more. Other thing might be that your cooling water temperature sensor gives a wrong signal and therefore the ECU gives too little fuel. Take the return fuel line off the tank (extend it/other hose) and put it in a container. Then start the bike and rev her up. See if the return line keeps flowing, even if you rev it; that would secure sufficient pressure through the range (i.e. fuel pump and filter allow sufficient flow). See what that gets you.--------- This troubleshooting will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Posted on Jun 03, 2011

mary_cate_be
  • 154 Answers

SOURCE: wire diagram for kill switch 1988 kawasaki kz 250

I found this diagram in the Kawasaki Z250, KZ305 Manual printed in 1981. Kawasaki's official website also only has the KZ 250 listed in the early 1980's.
An online PDF of this owner's manual can be found here: http://inkandwood.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/kawasaki_kz_250_-_305_79_a_82_-_service_manual.pdf


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Posted on Mar 09, 2012

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If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
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2003 Kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic keeps blowing the ignition fuse


Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
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If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
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