Question about 1982 kawasaki Z 250 C

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My 1981 kawasaki z250 rear master cylinder wont bleed

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Remove bleed nipple and try again , if ok then clean the small hole in nipple ! if NO then put a rag over hole and stamp on the brake lever as dirt could be inside ! dont get fluid on tyre or pads !

Posted on Apr 25, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Trouble bleeding front brakes on GL1100 (1981), no apparent leaks & tried new master cylinder, any ideas please


If there is air in the master cylinder ,then it will not pump fluid. Try loosening the banjo bolt holding the brake line onto the master cylinder and pumping the lever a couple of times till the brake fluid gushes past the sealing washers. Then tighten the banjo bolt and bleed the lines. Once the master cylinder is pushing DOT 3/4 brake fluid then bleeding the lines should be easy.

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1 Answer

Need to bleed brakes on 1981 AMC Eagle 30


Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid, leave the cap off, open bleeder on left front wheel cylinder till fluid begins to come out and close the bleeder. Go to the right front and bleed it, this is gravity bleeding and works fine without a helper to pump the pedal, when fluid starts to come out close bleeder. Now go to the right rear and bleed it the same way. Then lastly, the left rear. Bleed it and you should be done and with a good pedal. If you don't have good pedal, you'll need someone to pump and hold the brake down as you bleed each one from the closest to master cylinder around to the farthest from it in sequence. It's the only way to bleed brakes.

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Can you tell me step by step how to change the brake fluid front and back as I don't have a manual Thanks


Take the top off the master cylinder and slacken the bleed nipples on the slaves.
The frot should self drain and whilst that is happening, press up and down on the rear brake whilst topping up the level. When enough has gone through, tightnen the rear slave bleed nipple finger tight so as to allow fluid through under pressure and keep going until all air has gone and tighten the nipple. Top up the master cylinder and put the cover back on.
Top up the front master and tighten the slave nipple enough to let, under pressure, the fluid to flow. Ensure the air has been expelled and tighten the nipple. Top up the master cylinder and replace the cover.

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Release pressure on the system by opening the bleed screw on the slave cylinder on the rear wheel. It looks like short metal pipe with a nut for a base.
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it's best you do all wheels at the same time. start from the farthest wheel from the master cyclinder. after you have bled each wheel cylinder/caliper ... fill the master cylinder again to ensure enough fluid is in it. if you do just the front you are likely to **** air back into the front from the rear brakes (if any air is present).

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