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2010 xr 1200 with efi. engine cranks but won't fire. Has been to shop for fuel pump issues before I got it. What should the fuel pump voltage be and should I be able to hear the pump when I turn the ingnition on?

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  • Motorcycles Master
  • 43,775 Answers

Hi Butc, yes you should hear the fuel pump I would check the pump relay first and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of over use of enrichner.
5. Vacuum hose to fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, loose, corroded or broken battery terminal connections especially the "NEGATIVE" cable inside the harness at both ends.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP CKP and/or BAS).
11. Sticky or damaged valve or pushrod wrong length.
12. Primary cam sprocket spline sheared or missing spacer.
13. Security alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below, and for specific information or questions you can reach me at Good luck and have a nice day.
Harley Davidson Manuals Mark Workshop

Posted on Oct 03, 2015


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Road King fuel pump will not prime?

You have a couple of electrical checks you can do first. Yes this will be somewhat painful. The other item is if you go through these troubleshooting steps you won't be happy if your fuel pumps DOA.
First replace your fuse, I know it may look good, but replace it anyway. Next check your relays, then under your speedo console there is a connector on the tank. If this connector has been unplugged it is very easy to bend the pins inside, check for that. Check for power to the pins. If you have power and still no working pump, then it is an entirely different task and somewhat costly.
A bad fuel pump is not a real fun replacement sometimes it is however not a bad idea to replace the whole ball of wax which can run you about $400 for parts at retail. If you conclude your pump is bad just post with your year and model. Hope this helps,


Posted on Aug 20, 2009

  • 269 Answers

SOURCE: 99 Harley FLHTCU EFI, engine occasionally dies, on

Sometimes there is adaquate pressure and we don't hear the pump, but it does pump while crank and running. A couple of things here, one is the fuel filter, etc. and battery. You did not say how many miles are on the bie, somethings like the fuel filter are usually replaced based on mileage; while depending whee you are 3 years on a battery is about all you can expect.
The reasons why the bike dies can be many, especially at low RPM or idle. Check your air filter, replace if needed. Change your plugs if they are questionable. Change your fuel filter if you have 40K miles on the bike. Unfortunately you could have a range of sensors that are "tired" or about to go bad if the problem persist. The easiest thing to do is take to your dealer if after changing plugs, fuel filter, and air cleaner doesn't help. The dealer will hace the specialty tools to test the sensors and other components that may be in question. Usually they can determine what needs to be done in less than an hour.
Hope this helps.


Posted on Oct 31, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 1988 xr 600 was running fine "now i have no start issue"

sell it to me?

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

  • 98 Answers

SOURCE: engine cranks starts for a few seconds shuts off

have you checked the pump relay sounds like your relay is ready for a change

Posted on Apr 04, 2010

  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: 2010 1200 Sportster, although 100+ miles fuel

Ride the bike until it starts "holding back" or whatever it does. If you think it's fuel level related. Disconnect the fuel line at either the carb or the tank. Turn the fuel on, or if you have one of those vacuum operated petcocks, apply vacuum with a hand operated vacuum pump to open the petcock and test the fuel flow. See if you have a full stream of fuel coming out of the hose. Then fill the tank, and retest. Notice the difference in the flow.

Now, if there is a noticable difference, what is causing it. It could be the petcock screen. I've seen the screens have a "too high" standing pipe for the main fuel supply. The screen has a "pipe" made into it that is usually about an inch above the petcock. Fuel flows down this pipe when the petcock in the "ON" position. When the fuel level in the tank falls below the height of this pipe, the engine sputters and sometimes stalls indicating that you need fuel. But, when you switch the petcock to "RES", another hole in the petcock, which does not have the standing pipe, will open up and allow you to use the remaining fuel in the tank. On a Sporty, this is usually somewhere around a gallon of fuel or about 40 miles or so.

One other thing that could be effecting this the level of the bike. If they has been lowered this could have altered the "level" of the bike. On a Sporty with it's small capacity tank and the shape of the tank, if the has been lower by as little as 1" in the rear, it will cause a problem such as this.

I notice that the bike is a 2010 model. If it's still under warranty, take it back to the dealer and let them figure it out. That's what a warranty is for. But, just in case, keep this things I've mentioned in mind.

Good Luck

Posted on Jul 17, 2010

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If we replaces the feul pump on my 2002 prizm and it still won't run what else can it be?

Did you check the EFI relay an circuit opening relay ? these relays power the fuel pump !
The circuit opening relay provides ignition positive voltage to the fuel pump. The circuit opening relay is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) and receives ignition positive voltage from the EFI relay. The PCM monitors the crank signal circuit, terminal C3-11, for voltage when the ignition switch is in the START (engine cranking) position. When the crank signal circuit indicates the engine is cranking the PCM energizes the circuit opening relay. The PCM also energizes the circuit opening relay whenever reference pulses from the crankcase position (CKP) sensor circuit are detected. If the crank signal circuit does NOT indicate the engine is cranking the PCM will energize the circuit opening relay based only upon reference pulses.

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2001 suzuki esteem wagon

1.6L or 1.8L vastly different engines... and EFI.
fuel to the rail , only means the pump is active , never good.
28PSI is minimum on all cars. 1psi will never start a car. ever
and the rail will shoot fuel, all day. it fruitless , unless the rail is dead.
First the laws of EFI. (works all gas EFI)
  1. all fuses good.
  2. 12vdc to EFI system , below 10v is bad. (see lamps dim? bingo)
  3. The PCM (EFI brain) will never inject if it sees CMP/CKP or spark primary dead. ever. so, spark is first.
that is double reasons, fuel cant burn if no spark and if ECU
thinks spark is bad it cuts fuel, (fire safety and fuel hydralocking reasons)

so you connect any scan tool to the DLC, OBD2 port , by knees.
and crank for 5 seconds, release key, no turn off
see DTCs (errors) for CMP, or CKP sensors (cam/crank?)
no, then you crank and look at the RPM PID , live data stream the scan tool, see RPM go to 250rpm cranking, good.
ok , PCM thinks all is good....

i then check the #1 injector with a NOID lamp
i crank it flashes, good.
if not , i do all injectors , if one fails the pcm is dead on this line.
if yes, all dont flash the PCM is seeing some gross errors. ask. why./?
if all flash, then the fuel rail is dead. and your rail test was useless.

until you discloses engine option (size) I cant give spec numbers.
i then connect my fuel pressure gauge $20 tool to the fuel rail test
port, and i get 10psi, FAIL
i check voltage to the fuel pump cranking, i get 8v, bingo bad wiring
or bad fuel pump relay.
say 10psi and 12v at pump cranking,
the pump is bad, or the filter clogged , or the fuel pressure regulator
is stuck wide open killing all legit pressure.

that is how i do it.
keep in mind the PCM cant see fuel pressure on most cars.
some newer cars have this sensors. (nice)
low fuel pressure,. renders the whole EFI , useless. just junk.

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Cerokee 3,1td startoff solenoid

which engine, no engine stated means answers will be wrong.
that above is a statement so will run with that.
so what makes you think there is no fuel pressure??
1: the pressure gage is way low? how low , that you connected.
2: the pump seems silent. (near useless test)
3: pump never gets 12vdc cranking, you must crank.
4: the dribble test fails. (wasted time) (rail drips)
5: the injectors seem all dry, (spark plug tips are all dry)

now EFI 101 (crash course)
THE EFI system will be dead if fuse are blown.
and the ECU never injects with spark errors.
or CKP errors
or CMP errors
or IMMO is active. immobilizer is unhappy see lamp, look at it.

if all that works good, the ASD closes
the injectors fire
and the car starts if the ECU/PCM sees any errors stated above
it drops out in 2seconds <KILLING all injections,.
this is the PCM logic hard coded for fire prevention. all cars have it
with EFI.
does that help.

key factorys, ASD closes, for 2 seconds.
crank with no errors (scan tool shows errors after 5 seconds cranking)
if that works the engine does start.

ask for more tests, i have 3 more that find any bad start.

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why guess.?
ever seen a volt meter,?

cant get power when and where.? power is voltage.
do you have 12vdc at the pump cranking?
does car not start
why not post the symptoms so we can be on the same page.
why not?
i can walk you thru all fueling issues of any car.
why not post whats up;?
btw fueling is cut on all EFI if the EFI detects lost spark
so we check that 1st !

Fueling , EFI , is complex, (kinda) but is simple
the EFI dont fuel the engine, if there is no spark
or if it thinks you crashed, its a built in protection.

some cars inject and then stall in 2 seconds, due to , no spark.
the ECU monitors spark if it sees it drop dead, fuel ends.
even if spark is good. see why (answer, its a monitor)
the monitor works different on all EFI made.
fixed many.

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If it's getting fire and fuel would suggest timing issue. Maybe check crank and cam sensors. Getting any check engine light?

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hello,good day,first we are in fuel side,better to install a fuel gauge,to determine the right pressure, is not mention your fuel pump relay,this should also check,some occasion the power supply is missing,now if all is in order (fuel side) then your switching unit(transistor box) need tobe check,assuming your engine is 103 engine,ty

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