Question about 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTC Electra Glide Classic
Posted by Anonymous on
First make sure your battery is fully charged & your gas is good but it sounds as tho you have a bad starter solenoid or bad battery cable or loose connections at the battery itself.
Posted on Feb 10, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
put the bike in gear, rock it backwards to off set the pistons; the stop at the same level; this gives it direction. the normal jump start.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
Disconnect battery , remove the outer primary case, pull back the lock tab on the starter jackshaft, unbolt the retainer screw, then remove the two starter bolts from the right side, sometimes you need to loosen the oil tank mounts to get at these, slip the starter and coupler out as a unit, replace the coupler and jackshaft the same way they came out when the new starter goes in, install bolts , retighten the jackshaft bolt and bend over the retainer, install and fill primary case, connect battery thats it buddy
Posted on Oct 12, 2009
If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install.
There are two types available. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.
All you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. They all come with wiring instructions.
Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory. In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.
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Ok, this will get you started. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Once you do that, no problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at email@example.com .
To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions". Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you.
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
Check ur SOLENOiD on the SRARTER, it seems the magnetic coil is is letting go when ur push to start!
Either that, grounding must have not reaching ur STARTER, thats why the solenoid is not pushing ur bendix!
Hope that helps u out!
Posted on Dec 04, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 1997 FXDWG
I wouldn't think your problem be with the voltage regulator if the battery is being charged to 13 volts. The problem seems to be too big and engine with too small a battery. You have increased the size of your engine by quite a bit but you still run the same standard battery. Even with compression releases, you're turning a larger displacement engine. You need a battery that has a higher CCA rating (cold cranking amps). You may need to go to a "Big Boar" or "Odessy" battery. Twelve volts should be enough voltage but the current is the question.
Do this. With a fully charged battery, put the voltmeter across the battery. Read the voltage WHILE you start the bike. Does the voltage drop below twelve volts. If so, the battery is the problem. If not, the problem is somewhere else, maybe you need a stronger starter like a Spyke or something.
Posted on Dec 29, 2010
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