Question about Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic Motorcycles

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How are the wires connected to a v star fuse block

Are the wires connected with male stake on, and do they just pull straight out from the back of the block

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  • Yamaha Master
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Hi, Derek sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha despair not for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Electronics Star 1100 Wiki Knowledge Base
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-StarShopManual99-07.pdf
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-StarShopManual99-07.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://www.starmotorcycles.com/assets/service/manuals/2000/LIT-11626-13-36_96.pdf

Posted on May 02, 2016

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

I would like to install a block heater ON A 4.8 STRAIGHT 6 1985 COULD SOMEONE TELL ME WHERE IS IT LOCATED & IS THIS A JOB THAT AN AMATURE COULD DO ?


there are block heaters that are sold aftermarket that go into the engine in place of the dipstick. easy to install. just remove and save old dipstick and insert block heater, route the wiring carefully and hang the male end out the grill for connecting to 120volt household current

Apr 28, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Just opened my ion block rocker box and got the unit out and tried to charge it. It won't charge and the charge light only lights for about 20 seconds and turns off. It won;t operate unless plugged in and...


Just repaired my Job Rocker !! Just like most everyone here mine worked fine but would not charge. This may be how to fix yours.

Follow the red wire up from the battery to the circuit board and carefully try to disconnect it from the circuit board. Odds are the male spade connector will come off the circuit board. That's because it never got hot enough for the solder to actually stick to it when it was assembled at the factory. With time, the expansion and contraction from the heating and cooling of the circuit board causes this poor connection and prevents electricity from getting to the battery.

Remove the male connector from the female part using plies (this was difficult and required wiggling the connectors back and forth while pulling hard - and I'm not sure if it is absolutely necessary ).Clean the two prongs on the male connector with some fine sandpaper or an emery board and put some solder flux on them. (If you are unsure how to solder watch a few videos on Youtube or get help from someone who can) Heat the prongs up with a soldering gun or iron and coat them with some solder. Carefully remove the circuit board (by removing 4 screws) from the plastic panel to which it is attached.Then insert the male connector back on the circuit board while heating up the solder on the back side causing the connector to properly solder to the board.

Carefully plug your female spade connector back on the male spade connector you just soldered on the board. After making sure the circuit boards are not touching each other, plug your unit into the power and see if the charging light and the other 3 LEDs light up. If they do, unplug from your power, reassemble, plug back in and enjoy. If the don't, check where the black wire from the battery attaches to the circuit board and repeat the same procedure. Good Luck !

Please post your results so we can all know if this is a common problem and a good fix! Thanks again!!

May 23, 2014 | ION Block Rocker

1 Answer

American camper tent 2455 setup


Finally figured it out through trial and error. This right here is the only correct explanation given anywhere on the net.

First, make sure you have all of your poles. There will be 4 straight green ones, 4 straight blue, 4 straight burgundy with plastic feet, 4 curved yellow, 2 small orange arches, a straight pink and a straight white.

Before you start putting the poles together, stake the tent down at every loop point around the base of the tent. There should be 10 of them. Make sure they're fairly tight and the floor of the tent is taught and flat but not so tight that you tear the tent at the seam. Stake 1 corner first. Then put the second stake through the second loop in order and using a firm pressure, pull away from the first stake, along the line of the tent base, make taught and push the second stake into the ground. Repeat until finished.

The first pole assembly uses in this order, going out from the yellow arch, which is in the center. From one side of that arch, add one green, then a curved yellow, then another green and a burgundy at the bottom. Do the same from the other side of the center arch piece.

This arch outlines the door and goes through the 3 loops on the front of the tent, around the door, so the poles hold the tent up. the loops at the bottom are not for the poles. Every loop around the bottom are where the stakes go to hold it down. For now point the feet towards the back of the tent wherever they will stand on their own. You can fine tune it and firm it up once you get the second arch in place.

All green ones should now be used up.

For the second arch, do the same thing but use the blue instead of the green. So from the one side of the yellow arch, 1 blue, 1 curved yellow, one blue and one burgundy. Same order from the other side of the arch.

Now all the poles should be used up except for the straight pink one and the straight white one. These two go together to make a straight pole that goes through the metal loops attached to the yellow arch pieces and locks the two arch assemblies apart at the top.

Now this takes some maneuvering and some word smithery to describe but what you want to do is make sure the feet of the front arch assembly, are pointed towards the back of the tent and stop at the side. The back arch feet will point towards the front of the tent. They both stop about 6 inches BEFORE the center tie down loop on the SIDES of the tent, on either side of the center loop. The front arch will actually lean forward, with the feet pointed behind it and wedged into the ground, right up against the tent at the bottom, move it around until you have a nice firm feel to it. Same with the back arch but this one will lean away from the back of the tent and the feet pointed towards the front. Once you get the back arch into place, it will really firm up and won't budge.

Another way to describe it would be that the two arch assemblies feet will point towards each other at the side of the tent, about 6 inches before they reach the center loop on either side.

Hope this helped. =)
Posted on Jul 04, 2015

Apr 09, 2013 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

1 Answer

American camper tent 2455 setup


Finally figured it out through trial and error. This right here is the only correct explanation given anywhere on the net.

First, make sure you have all of your poles. There will be 4 straight green ones, 4 straight blue, 4 straight burgundy with plastic feet, 4 curved yellow, 2 small orange arches, a straight pink and a straight white.

Before you start putting the poles together, stake the tent down at every loop point around the base of the tent. There should be 10 of them. Make sure they're fairly tight and the floor of the tent is taught and flat but not so tight that you tear the tent at the seam. Stake 1 corner first. Then put the second stake through the second loop in order and using a firm pressure, pull away from the first stake, along the line of the tent base, make taught and push the second stake into the ground. Repeat until finished.

The first pole assembly uses in this order, going out from the yellow arch, which is in the center. From one side of that arch, add one green, then a curved yellow, then another green and a burgundy at the bottom. Do the same from the other side of the center arch piece.

This arch outlines the door and goes through the 3 loops on the front of the tent, around the door, so the poles hold the tent up. the loops at the bottom are not for the poles. Every loop around the bottom are where the stakes go to hold it down. For now point the feet towards the back of the tent wherever they will stand on their own. You can fine tune it and firm it up once you get the second arch in place.

All green ones should now be used up.

For the second arch, do the same thing but use the blue instead of the green. So from the one side of the yellow arch, 1 blue, 1 curved yellow, one blue and one burgundy. Same order from the other side of the arch.

Now all the poles should be used up except for the straight pink one and the straight white one. These two go together to make a straight pole that goes through the metal loops attached to the yellow arch pieces and locks the two arch assemblies apart at the top.

Now this takes some maneuvering and some word smithery to describe but what you want to do is make sure the feet of the front arch assembly, are pointed towards the back of the tent and stop at the side. The back arch feet will point towards the front of the tent. They both stop about 6 inches BEFORE the center tie down loop on the SIDES of the tent, on either side of the center loop. The front arch will actually lean forward, with the feet pointed behind it and wedged into the ground, right up against the tent at the bottom, move it around until you have a nice firm feel to it. Same with the back arch but this one will lean away from the back of the tent and the feet pointed towards the front. Once you get the back arch into place, it will really firm up and won't budge.

Another way to describe it would be that the two arch assemblies feet will point towards each other at the side of the tent, about 6 inches before they reach the center loop on either side.

Hope this helped. =)

Apr 09, 2013 | MSR Family Tents

1 Answer

Instruction for setup of American Camper tent 8x11


Finally figured it out through trial and error. This right here is the only correct explanation given anywhere on the net.

First, make sure you have all of your poles. There will be 4 straight green ones, 4 straight blue, 4 straight burgundy with plastic feet, 4 curved yellow, 2 small orange arches, a straight pink and a straight white.

Before you start putting the poles together, stake the tent down at every loop point around the base of the tent. There should be 10 of them. Make sure they're fairly tight and the floor of the tent is taught and flat but not so tight that you tear the tent at the seam. Stake 1 corner first. Then put the second stake through the second loop in order and using a firm pressure, pull away from the first stake, along the line of the tent base, make taught and push the second stake into the ground. Repeat until finished.

The first pole assembly uses in this order, going out from the yellow arch, which is in the center. From one side of that arch, add one green, then a curved yellow, then another green and a burgundy at the bottom. Do the same from the other side of the center arch piece.

This arch outlines the door and goes through the 3 loops on the front of the tent, around the door, so the poles hold the tent up. the loops at the bottom are not for the poles. Every loop around the bottom are where the stakes go to hold it down. For now point the feet towards the back of the tent wherever they will stand on their own. You can fine tune it and firm it up once you get the second arch in place.

All green ones should now be used up.

For the second arch, do the same thing but use the blue instead of the green. So from the one side of the yellow arch, 1 blue, 1 curved yellow, one blue and one burgundy. Same order from the other side of the arch.

Now all the poles should be used up except for the straight pink one and the straight white one. These two go together to make a straight pole that goes through the metal loops attached to the yellow arch pieces and locks the two arch assemblies apart at the top.

Now this takes some maneuvering and some word smithery to describe but what you want to do is make sure the feet of the front arch assembly, are pointed towards the back of the tent and stop at the side. The back arch feet will point towards the front of the tent. They both stop about 6 inches BEFORE the center tie down loop on the SIDES of the tent, on either side of the center loop. The front arch will actually lean forward, with the feet pointed behind it and wedged into the ground, right up against the tent at the bottom, move it around until you have a nice firm feel to it. Same with the back arch but this one will lean away from the back of the tent and the feet pointed towards the front. Once you get the back arch into place, it will really firm up and won't budge.

Another way to describe it would be that the two arch assemblies feet will point towards each other at the side of the tent, about 6 inches before they reach the center loop on either side.

Hope this helped. =)
Posted on Jul 04, 2015

Aug 28, 2012 | MSR Kamp Rite Double Tent Cot

1 Answer

I NEED INSTRUCTIONS TO AN OLD AMERICAN CAMPER TENT IF ANYBODY CAN HELP ME ON MY SEARCH TO FIND SOME INSTRUCTION


Finally figured it out through trial and error. This right here is the only correct explanation given anywhere on the net.

First, make sure you have all of your poles. There will be 4 straight green ones, 4 straight blue, 4 straight burgundy with plastic feet, 4 curved yellow, 2 small orange arches, a straight pink and a straight white.

Before you start putting the poles together, stake the tent down at every loop point around the base of the tent. There should be 10 of them. Make sure they're fairly tight and the floor of the tent is taught and flat but not so tight that you tear the tent at the seam. Stake 1 corner first. Then put the second stake through the second loop in order and using a firm pressure, pull away from the first stake, along the line of the tent base, make taught and push the second stake into the ground. Repeat until finished.

The first pole assembly uses in this order, going out from the yellow arch, which is in the center. From one side of that arch, add one green, then a curved yellow, then another green and a burgundy at the bottom. Do the same from the other side of the center arch piece.

This arch outlines the door and goes through the 3 loops on the front of the tent, around the door, so the poles hold the tent up. the loops at the bottom are not for the poles. Every loop around the bottom are where the stakes go to hold it down. For now point the feet towards the back of the tent wherever they will stand on their own. You can fine tune it and firm it up once you get the second arch in place.

All green ones should now be used up.

For the second arch, do the same thing but use the blue instead of the green. So from the one side of the yellow arch, 1 blue, 1 curved yellow, one blue and one burgundy. Same order from the other side of the arch.

Now all the poles should be used up except for the straight pink one and the straight white one. These two go together to make a straight pole that goes through the metal loops attached to the yellow arch pieces and locks the two arch assemblies apart at the top.

Now this takes some maneuvering and some word smithery to describe but what you want to do is make sure the feet of the front arch assembly, are pointed towards the back of the tent and stop at the side. The back arch feet will point towards the front of the tent. They both stop about 6 inches BEFORE the center tie down loop on the SIDES of the tent, on either side of the center loop. The front arch will actually lean forward, with the feet pointed behind it and wedged into the ground, right up against the tent at the bottom, move it around until you have a nice firm feel to it. Same with the back arch but this one will lean away from the back of the tent and the feet pointed towards the front. Once you get the back arch into place, it will really firm up and won't budge.

Another way to describe it would be that the two arch assemblies feet will point towards each other at the side of the tent, about 6 inches before they reach the center loop on either side.

Hope this helped. =)
Posted on Jul 04, 2015

Jul 12, 2010 | MSR Family Tents

1 Answer

How do i replace a 120 amp fuse step by step on a toyota avalon?


There are several fuse blocks. They are located in the engine compartment, behind the right side kick panel, under the instrument panel or behind the left side kick panel.

REPLACEMENT
If any light or electrical component in the vehicle does not work, its fuse may be blown. To determine the fuse that is the source of the problem, look on the lid of the fuse box as it will give the name and the circuit serviced by each fuse. To inspect a suspected blown fuse, pull the fuse straight out with the pull-out tool and look at the fuse carefully. If the thin wire that bridges the fuse terminals is broken, the fuse is bad and must be replaced. On a good fuse, the wire will be intact.

Sometimes it is difficult to make an accurate determination. If this is the case, try replacing the fuse with one that you know is good. If the fuse blows repeatedly, then this suggests that a short circuit lies somewhere in the electrical system and you should have the system checked.

544e23d.jpg

Fig. Once the cover is removed from the fuse box, you can identify each fuse and relay

73828f0.jpg

Fig. All circuit breakers and fuses pull out quick easily

When installing a new fuse, use one with the same amperage rating as the one being replaced. To install the a new fuse, first turn off all the electrical components and the ignition switch. Always use the fuse pull-out tool and install the fuse straight. Twisting of the fuse could cause the terminals to separate too much which may result in a bad connection. It may be a good idea to purchase some extra fuses and put them in the box in case of an emergency.

b7627a0.jpg

Fig. Relays can be removed by pulling them from the block

I hope helps with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

Dec 28, 2009 | 1999 Toyota Avalon

2 Answers

Blower for hvac will not work?


For an '06 H3: If the fuse is okay (in the underhood fuse block), pull out the HVAC blower resistor and check it for burnt connections. It's located right under the glove box in the air plenum, easily accessed, and has a red male 6pin(?) plug in it. Mine had a burnt terminal that fused the two together. I went to the Hummer Dealer, and bought the replacement resistor and wiring harness. Parts are #10397098 (resistor) @ $37.74 and #25867517 (harness) @ $32.90. Both were easily replaced for a total of $70.64 plus tax. Save yourself $106 per hour labor and do it yourself. Easy fix.

Jul 14, 2009 | 2006 Hummer H3

1 Answer

Sony pt 65wv600 projection TV convergence chip replacement


Those connections pull straight off. You don't want to cut that wire because you still will have the male end stuck in the tube. You cannot splice that wire well enough to ensure no high voltage leakage that would damage the other components.

Mar 17, 2017 | Televison & Video

2 Answers

2007 Dodge Nitro Tail Light Replacement


look at the car manual under maintenance and then rear light bulb replacement. First take out the two hole covers using a flat head to loosen then wiggle and turn by hand to get out. Pull the light unit straight back, and unplug the electrical. Don't break anything.
Then use a star driver (check your misc socket set drivers for the right size). Unscrew the two star head screws and pull this bulb holder straight off the tail light (same direction as screws). Replace the bulb and put back together in reverse.

Nov 04, 2008 | 2007 Dodge Nitro R/T New Cars

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