Question about 2005 MV Agusta F4 1000 S

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Mv-agusta alternator voltage not charging

After a 170mph run voltage was not OK. Stranded with dead battery. Bought New one. Festung resulted in a Bad generatir. One of the 3 leads from the alternator to regulator showed max 2.5V AC while the other two had 50+V AC and more. Generator Bad?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: Acceleration

197 bhp at the crank (we got no where near this on a dyno). Top end 187.9mph. 0-180 17.9 secs faster than 08 r1gsxr1000 and busa. 1/4 mile - 10.08 secs at 148.2 mph,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: MV Agusta F4 750S (2000 model) stripdown

Can anyone advise where I can obtain a download or purchase a CD for F4 750S (2000 model) stripdown re-assembly and maintenance? The previous owner gave me a CD which contains:- 1. Owners manual. 2. Engine only stripdown and re-build (complete with poor photographs!) 3. Spare parts diagrams and part numbers. The above certainly seems to be taken from official MV sources and appears not to be a scanned in copy of MV documentation i.e. it seems to have been produced as a .pdf for printing off. I am really looking for detail like complete bike stripdown and re-assembly as well as basic maintenance such as chain tensioning brake pad and coolant replacement etc.do a search on the site for MV Agusta F4 750S Manual,,,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: mileage

I own a 2002 f4 it can get bad mileage when pushing hp which i do that get me around 25 to 30 mpg.,

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

Greg 01
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: loose drive chain

The answer can be found in the owners manual, however your will need to undo the wheel nut with a special socket. I got one from the States for about $150. Make sure you get one that fits the MV Agusta wheel nut. It is not the same as the Ducati. The other thing you will need is a torque wrench. The torque settings are in the manual. The last thing you will need is the race stand. If you didn't get one with the bike then be prepared, they are expensive. I have found that my chain stays adjusted for the 6,000 km between services. Considering all that you have to go through to adjust it, and the consequences of getting it wrong ( damage to rims etc from a slipping wrench) I would get a shop to do it. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2000 MV Agusta 750, my headlight works sometimes

You seem to have an intermittent open. Grab your headlight wires and wiggle them while watching the headlight itself. Se if you can make the light go on and off. check all elecrical connections. You might have a bad ground somewhere. Chaz Moto Dc

Posted on Feb 25, 2010

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Charge light comes on what does it mean


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Put a new alternantor in 2 summers ago. Only drive in summer, son in collegs. Had a dead battery today. The auto store said the alternantor was bad.


If you are not using the vehicle except during the summer, You should really have a battery tender (2amp automatic charger) attached to it. There are normal items that will otherwise drain the battery over an extended period of time (radio and clock to mention one). If you jump started it when you found the battery to be dead, it's possible to have the alternator fail as it cannot charge a dead battery
(alternators are designed to maintain the state of charge, not re-charge. If "requested" to re-charge they will run full on and eventually burn out).
Auto stores often do not have experienced help. Therefore, it's possible that your alternator may still be OK. First, completely re-charge the battery and have it load tested to make sure it's good. Then, do a quick check using a volt meter. Running voltage measured at the battery terminals should be between 13 and 14 volts. You should see a drop with all accessories on including headlights on high, but the voltage should not creep downward even after fifteen minutes. If after running, you start seeing numbers below 12.9 the alternator or regulator is bad. (regulator is part of the computer so hopefully it's not bad).
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F4 1000 electrical shut down


Hi, Sturrock9 before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter have failed or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Lo-beams not working


Hi manolonusa,

It may have something to do with your headlights, but my first thought is they are just a symptom of another problem.

I'd check on the alternator. If the ALT fails, a good battery will keep the car running for quite a while. Sometimes the first symptoms are the dimming of the headlights. So:
  • Make sure belts are tight.
  • Get a meter and test the output voltage while its running (be careful when doing this).
  • Check the voltage at the battery when stopped and when running.
  • Same thing with headlights on and off.
Get back to me with the results. Once the alternator is ruled out we can check a possible headlight problem. But this way, at least you won't be stranded somewhere with a dead battery.


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The best way is to get a voltmeter and check the voltage of the battery with the truck running and not running. When the truck is running, the voltage across the battery terminals should be aboput 14.9 volts (showing the alternator is charging the battery). With the truck off, the battery voltage should be about 12 volts (showing that the battery is holding the charge). From there, you should be able to tell which is bad.

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