Question about 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

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Yamaha torque specs

1988 i'm putting the clutch basket back on. what is the torque on the nut that holds the basket on after the retaining washer ???

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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Clutch Torque Specifications
04 Clutch torque specs
YAMAHA YZ250 LC Owner Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha

Posted on Jul 22, 2016


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SOURCE: is the flywheel nut reverse thread?

There is a special wrench that will hold the basket while you undo the nut. you should be able to buy this tool at a local dealer pretty cheap.

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Refer to a shop manual.Ask dealer or independent shop to look values up.Look up on the I net.Need to find "specification - torque values" from some source.Anyone out there have a shop manual?

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hi mate on a yzf 600 95 the setting are, nut 70Nm and the spring bolts 8Nm ,check your local dealer ask for the service desk ask them.hope this helps .

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My clutch basket came loose as i striped it down i noticed the washer behind the nut that holds the basket on was quite abit big for the shaft then i pulled the basket off and there was a other washer...

Sounds like they were put in in the wrong place.. swap them..tighten with an air tool...the washer with the splines goes between the basket and the inner hub..the big washer goes behind the clutch basket.(goes on the shaft first)

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How do i remove the clutch basket on a 1988 fxrs

Now, if you wish to remove the clutch as a unit, disconnect the battery. Drain the primary case. Remove the primary cover. Take the compensator sprocket nut off. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster. Now, take the snap right out of the clutch release plate and remove the plate. You'll have to take the nut off the mainshaft that holds the clutch assembly on. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Then you need a puller to get the clutch assembly off the tapered shaft, Custom Chrome 20269, $30 and a "locking bar" to keep the engine from turning while you torque the nuts, Custom Chrome 20825,$26. You can then disassemble the clutch and you'll need a press to press the inner clutch hub out of the outer clutch hub.

Then compensator sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds and the clutch mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Put one line of Loctite 271 red in each nut. You will need a torque wrench that will torque in the reverse direction. All torque wrenches won't do that.

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How to install stator

To install a stator on your Softail, you'll have to remove the outer primary, the engine drive sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly. Then, you can get to the four screws that holds the stator. The job is not that difficult if you've got a few tools and a bit of mechanical skills. The engine sprocket is quite tight and you'll probably need an air wrench or a "locking bar" to keep the engine from turning while you torque the engine nut holding the sprocket. The engine sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds and the clutch nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Some click type torque wrenches will not work in the left handed direction. The clutch nut is behind the adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly. Just take the snap ring out and you'll see it.

I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to remove the magnetic rotor. Stick the bolts just slightly in the two holes and squeeze them together so that they bind. Then pull the rotor off. Take the four torqs, out of the stator and the two screws out of the plastic plug retainer. Work the plug out of the case and lift the stator off the sprocket shaft. Install the new stator by coating the new plug with black RTV. Put the stator over the sprocket shaft and then work the plug into the hole in the engine case. Put the stator in place and put the NEW bolts that came with it in place and start them. Put the plastic plug retainer in and then torque the stator bolts to 40 inch pounds.

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I would like to see exactly where you would adjust the clutch cable.demonstrate please.

Start at the clutch cable, loosen the locknut and screw the cable in so that there are no threads showing (till the adjuster touches the locknut.

You have to remove the derby cover (the big round cover with 5 screws on the outer primary) so the bike has to be sitting upright or the primary fluid will leak out.

Remove the derby cover, get an 11/16 (i think) socket and loosen the lock nut on the end of the clutch basket (use a hammer to tap the ratchet and loosen the nut).

Unsrew the nut a few turns and get an allen wrench (I forget what size but find one that will fit in the end of the rod that you just loosened up the nut on)

Using the allen key turn the rod in untill the clutch just start to engage, stop there then turn the allen 1/2 a turn out then using the ratchet and socket tighten the lock nut on the end of the clutch basket (tap the ratchet with a hammer to tighten so that the rod you just adjusted 1/2 a turn out does not move.

Now go back to the clutch cable and screw the cable back out so that you can see the clutch lever start to tighten up. Adjust the cable so that when you grab and pull the cable just before the lever you get a space just wide enough to slip a quarter into. So where the cable goes into the lever you want a little freeplay, the correct freeplay is 1/16 to 1/8, about the width of a quarter. Tighten the locknut on the clutch cable and put the derby cover back on.

Thats all there is to it, I hope this is clear enough, any questions just ask.

Here is the instructions from the manual:

1. Position motorcycle on a suitable lift, upright and level.
Point front wheel straight ahead.
2. Remove five TORX screws with captive washers to detach
clutch inspection cover from primary chaincase cover.
3. Remove and discard seal.
4. See Figure 1-20. Add free play to cable.
a. Slide rubber boot (1) off cable adjuster.
b. Holding cable adjuster (2) with 1/2 in. wrench, loosen
jam nut (3) using a 9/16 in. wrench.
c. Turn cable adjuster (2) until there is a large amount
of free play at clutch hand lever.
5. See Figure 1-21. Loosen jam nut (1) on clutch adjuster
screw (2). To take up all free play, turn screw inward
(clockwise) until lightly seated. Activate the clutch lever to
verify the balls are seated in the ramps.
6. Back out adjusting screw (counterclockwise) 1/2 to 1 full
turn.Tighten jamnut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm), while
holding adjusting screw with an Allen wrench.
7. Squeeze clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set
ball and ramp release mechanism.
8. Check free play.
a. Turn cable adjuster away from jam nut until slack is
eliminated at hand lever.
b. See Figure 1-22. Pull clutch cable ferrule (2) away
from clutch lever bracket (3) to check free play. Turn
cable adjuster as necessary to obtain 1/16-1/8
in. (1.6-3.2 mm) free play between end of cable ferrule
and clutch lever bracket.
9. Hold adjuster with 1/2 in. wrench. Using 9/16 in. wrench,
tighten jam nut against cable adjuster. Cover cable
adjuster mechanism with rubber boot.

10. Install clutch inspection cover and new seal as follows:
a. Thoroughly wipe all lubricant from cover mounting
surface and groove in chaincase.
b. Position new seal (1) in groove in primary chaincase
cover and press each of the nubs on seal into the
groove. The nubs will retain seal in position.
c. Insert screw (with captive washer) through clutch
inspection cover and carefully thread it into the top
cover screw hole.
d. Start the remaining four screws (with captive
e. Alternately tighten screws to 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2
Nm) following torque sequence shown in Figure 1-23.

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