This is a dirt track car with 1.8 engine. We broke a fuel line a few weeks ago and repaired it. Not sure if that's relevant but trying to give all details. Car fired up with no hesitation at all. Idled fine but when revved, would bog a little until throttle was feathered and warmed up the car. Then it was fine. Ran strong with no issues. However, every time it was shut off would need feathering to accelerate smoothly at first. Then would be fine. Last Saturday, When we started it, it still idled fine. When I attempted to rev the engine it would cut out completely, backfire, and continue to do so. Let off and it was fine at idle. With some feathering, it would finally rev up. During the feature, it did this and got it smoothed out. Then in the front straight, while floored, it cut out completely (a new thing) and died. It fired up after a few tries, ran poorly, then smoothed out after feathering the throttle. The return fuel line had become seperated and repaired it but still doing the same thing. I've replaced the Fuel Pump relay, the Throttle Position Sensor, and MAF sensor. It still does it and now is a bit difficult to start. Initially it seemed to run rich when first starting it but now seems to not be getting fuel. Can't hook it up to a computer, as no check engine light etc. is on the car due to dirt track rules. Can anyone help? Have to have this on the track Saturday. First year racing, 8th in points for the season, and not accustomed to figuring this stuff out. Any help would be appreciated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Not sure what you are saying that broke.
If the line is plastic and the fitting has no place for a wrench, you use a tool made to release the spring tension inside the connector. AC lines use the same setup.
If the plastic line is broke, you may be able to get a repair kit at your local auto parts store. The fuel line is designed to be replaced all in one piece, not repaired.
The fuel filter light comes on to tell you that there is Water In The Fuel tank at a level high enough to be picked up by the fuel pump. Your problem is a fuel delivery system that is full of water. Drop the tank and clean it out first. There is a very specific procedure for replenishing the fuel system with good fuel. The best thing to do is pick up a copy of Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual, Part #10330 as it outlines the procedure. However, if you are unable to get the book reply in the comment section and I can type it out for you. It requires 14 steps.
While you are doing this it would be a good idea to also replace any and all rubber pieces of fuel line. They have been known to collapse over time, when the pump comes on. Make sure you get fuel line that is diesel specific, regular gas line won't work. You mentioned replacing the injector pump so it will need to be taken to a diesel shop to be re-timed. Timing involves tools that are expensive and not normally accessable bu you and I.
The Hanes manual is an excellent investment at about $22. It provides excellent repair procedures for your engine as well as some service up-dates and shortcuts.
Diesels need to be clean and typically after 10,000 miles removing the fuel filter produces very little in the way of dirt and grit.
You had the tank and lines cleaned out and a new pump and presumably a new filter and still you find dirt and grit in the filter after a short time. ..
Either the tank, etc. wasn't cleaned out or more dirt has entered the tank since, either from more dirty fuel, from dirt ingress into the tank while the car is in use or the third possibility is something is wearing rapidly and the dirt is appearing in the tank to be recirculated after being sent along the fuel return line. If this is what is happening it throws suspicion onto the high pressure pump...
If the high pressure pump is failing it is surprising one or more of the injectors hasn't failed.
If you got dirty fuel the filter should have trapped everything that was likely to damage the injection system until performance reduced and eventually the engine stopped due to fuel starvation. Replacing the fuel filter with a suitable amount of care should then restore performance to the previous level.
Fuel filters are great for trapping dirt but not so good for other liquid contaminants. Water fortunately tends to remain at the bottom of the tank and the bottom of the filter cavity but other things might pass through the filter - acids, salt solution, solvents.
A couple of years ago there was a case of a few petrol filling stations selling fuel contaminated with seawater and shortly afterwards a lot of injectors needed replacing...
I think if my car had the problem your car has I would temporarily fit an inline filter to the fuel return line and drive it for a time. Two things should happen if the dirt is self-generated. The new inline fiter when cut open should show the dirt and grit you usually discover in the main filter and secondly, there should be a reduction in the amount of dirt and grit you find in the main filter, however any dirt at all in the inline fiter means my best advice is to take the car to a good diesel specialist for proper diagnosis and a guaranteed repair.
If dirt is found in the fuel return line there can be no half measures - the business end of the injection system needs surgical-level cleanliness.
It's possible fuel pump, sometimes diaphragms inside bind and they allow fuel to drain back. Could be dirt in fuel line (dirty fuel filter) Chuck of dirt bouncing around and blocks fuel line. Replace the filter first, it's easier and cheaper.
is your fuel pump on check for a safety cut off switch to see if it needs to be reset. if not a power to pump problem could be your pump sock is plugged or the pump has failed.
Tools: 1. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet 2. Hose Pincher 3. Flare Nut Wrench 4. Flat Head Screwdriver 5. Socket Set
Steps: Step 1 Open the hood and locate the fuel filter. If the fuel filter is not in the engine compartment, follow the fuel line from the tank until the fuel filter is located. o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
Step 2 If the fuel filter has a clear case, inspect the filter element for dirt.
Step 3 If the fuel filter case is not see-through, remove it from the fuel line. Drain the fuel from the filter into a container and inspect the condition of the fuel. o Tip: Caution: Before removing fuel lines or fuel related parts, make sure that the fuel pressure is relieved from the vehicle fuel system. To relieve the pressure in fuel injected systems, remove the fuel pump fuse and run the engine.
Step 4 Install the new fuel filter making sure that the flow is in the correct direction. The arrow on the fuel filter is the direction of flow from the tank to the engine.
Step 5 Secure the lines back onto the fuel filter. If applicable, reinstall the fuel pump fuse.
Step 6 Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
Step 7 Test drive the vehicle to check for a rough running engine, hesitation, or lack of power.
Possible fault could be that the empty tank had broough in dirt into the filter or fuel system. Please try to remove the line and check or replace fuel filter.Even it is possible if water is inside the system which will come out only when the tank is empty. Check this out.
Sounds like you have a small bit of dirt or grit in the fuel system when accelerating it is drawn with enough force to cut off the fuel supply then is released when engine at Idle. 1 run liquid fuel line/injector cleaner in 1 tank 2 check fuel lines for debris 3 change fuel filters 4 have fuel tank flushed here is trouble shooting order less expense to greater.
sounds like the fuel filter.. if you have those kind of skills, they're usually cheap to buy and worth a shot to change. depending on the location the labor will take you 1 - 5 hrs...
I just changed mine a 87 accord LX. Lay the back seat down, pull the carpet in the trunk to the front of the car. You should see 2 - 5 or 6 inch round acess covers remove the drivers side one. Be sure to check the fuse and that you have current at the pump. Ii will only have current for a sceond when the key switch is cycled.. Remove the six nuts holding the fuel pump and the gas line hose. Remove the whole unit, i went to advanced auto patrs and bought pump and a new sock filter, like 63.00. There is two small nuts holding the wires to the pump 1 Pos. 1 Neg make sure they go back right. The fuel pump came with a new piece of hose too.Lossen the clamp holding the pump and install new one. Was reallly a easy repair.
×