Question about 2002 Yamaha TT-R 250

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I have a 2006 kx250f engine seems to be running fine but at 1/4 throttle engine seems to be bogging or missing a bit

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I would start out with the basics first: clean air filter, new spark plug, fresh fuel. Then move to the intake and exhaust and check for leaks. A loose carb or adapter, a leaky exhaust seal. The exhaust uses a copper ring seal, they have a tendency to wear out or be vulnerable to a header that has been knocked out of alignment. If everything still checks out, try cleaning the carb, and be sure to remove all jets and blow compressed air through all passages. Next I would check for valve clearances, and if your capable, a leak-down test to check for a worn top end or valves. If the problem has seemed to be for most of the bikes life, you may want to try rejetting the bike to fine tune your low-speed circuit.

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

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1 Answer

2006 Kawasaki KX 250 F oil is leaking out of the crankcase breather tube


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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2. Faulty breather valve.
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4. Air filter has too much "pre-oil".
5. Crankshaft seal failure allowing transmission fluid to migrate.
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For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

2006 Kawasaki KX 250 F carburetor tuning


Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://www.mx-sport.ru/files/servicemanual-KX250f-06.pdf
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Aug 08, 2013 | 2006 kawasaki KX 250 F

1 Answer

Engine bogs down when riding


the carb is not getting enough fuel to supply the motor so when u give it full throttle it will start to shut down, then when u let off it a little bit it will rev up like it sounds good ?

that usually happens when it is out of tune or the pulse hole under the drain nut gets clogged.

hope this helps

May 31, 2012 | Garden

1 Answer

2003 yz 250 starts and idles but runs rich and bogs as soon as the throttle is applied


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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6. Plugged bowl vent or overflow.
7. Fuel level in bowl too low.
8. Restricted fuel supply passages.
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10. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
11. The enrichner valve not seated or leaking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1 Answer

2006 Kawasaki KX 250 F will not start when hot


Hi, Briar613 and the usual suspects are:
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2. Faulty spark plug cables.
3. Faulty temperature sensor.
4. HISS light not going off.
5. Faulty starter motor.
6. Valves adjusted too tight.
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8. Fuel has vapor lock.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

2006 Kawasaki KX 250 F carb settings


Hi, Joe9456 it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


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2 Answers

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1 Answer

RM85 w/ 105 kit bogs down with rapid throttle onset rate


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1 Answer

Off idle miss


and I'm out of ideas. I have a RR 125 Motard with about 12000 miles on the clock. It's been trouble free for the years that I've owned it. Recently I noticed a slight miss when running at part throttle. RPM doesn't matter it misses from idle to almost redline but only when the throttle is in the first 5% of it's range. I did the full routine, carb cleaning, valve adjustment (ugh...shims), air/fuel/oil filters. No change. At more than 5% throttle, there's no miss, and it pulls very strong. At full throttle, I don't have the guts to see the end of 4th gear. Tempurature doesn't make a difference, hot or cold, it runs the same, although when the choke is on (cold) there's no miss (but a high idle). Turning on the choke after it's wamed up it will bog and die (like it should). I suppose I could have missed something when cleaning the carbs, but usually, a little bit of choke will fix that. Not in this case. There's no hesitation when opening the throttle, and under high loads, any RPM, any gear, it runs fine. So, I'm at a loss. I'm open to suggestions. ,Check for vacuum leaks first - carb boots, vacuum lines, etc. Also check the CV diaphragms for cracks, splits and pinholes. Then, I think I'd re-check/clean the pilot jets. Then, if that doesn't help, I'd open the idle mixture screws a bit - maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn to get a little richer mix.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2008 Beta RR 125 Motard

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