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adjust the brakes back off so that the drum can be pulled off first
next remove the grease cap, and split pin
remove the tin nut and the axle nut
pull the hub off the axle
replace the bearings after repacking the cones correctly ( grease between rollers under the cage )
reinstall making sure that the grease seal lip is facing the bearings
install the hub back on the axle and install the nut
do it up until it touches the bearing , spin the hub and do it up a bit more while turning
This ensures that all the tapered rollers are seated correctly
Now without touching any thing undo the nut then do it back up until it touches the bearing again
This is a no pre-load - no end float position that is desirable for the bearing
fit the tin nut positing it so that the split pin can go through the axle hole. If after many changes of position of the tin nut you still cannot get a section to line up with the hole , adjust the axle nut up just a bit until something lines up
any more than one castleantion hole will be too tight .
fit grease cap without filling with grease as that grease will do nothing
what you have put between the rollers under the cage will,be sufficient
DONT forget to order and replace also allways the sinter bearingbus on the machine because to protect you from a dissapointment because otherwise the belt will turns off and cant be (good) controlled again , replace the drive roller allways and clean the front roller axle if its only dirt on the front roller use a little sillicon grease film on the front behind can use a little bit more sillicon grease between the axle rings and new bearing bus. remove the dry grease in the driving gear space and renew the lubricant in it with a multipurpose grease .
If you remove the plug for the grease cylinder on the idler arm and squeeze out the grease manually by pushing the pulley wheel in, you can relates enough tension on the track to sag it down and maybe remove rollers. Or you can remove the track this way with a little manual labor without splitting it.
If you are running tapered bearings then I would say that your problem is over-tightening and will destroy bearings very quickly. Too much or not enough grease will do the same . To properly grease new bearings you have to get the grease between the rollers and under the cage (that steel bit that holds the bearings apart) To do this place a small amount of grease in the palm of your hand and use the open end of the bearing to create a scraping action through the grease . This catches the grease and pushes it between the rollers. Do this action until you see it coming out the small end of the bearing. This is all the grease you need for a properly lubricated bearing. Repeat the process for the other bearing. Reassemble and fit the washer and locknut. Tighten the nut at the same time turning the wheel. When the nut is firm against the bearing but not tight turn the wheel a few more times. Now don't touch the wheel but loosen off the nut then retighten it up until it just touches the bearing. This is a no pre-load no end float situation that is most desirable for tapered roller bearings. Fit the split pin in the hole and open up the pin to catch it in the hole. If the pin hole will not allow this to happen tighten it just enough to get the first available slot to line up to allow the pin in. If you have thrust ball bearings they same method of greasing and adjustment is applicable.
I take it that the van is a rear wheel drive. So remove the wheel. Remove the brake caliper and lift off the disc. Undo the axle nut and remove hub from axle. Knock out both the bearing cups and clean hub center. Fit new cups into the hub ensuring they are tight against the seat. Thaking a small amount of grease in the palm of you hand take the cone and with the most open area tend to scrape the grease from you palm so that the grease is forced between the rollers until it come out the smallest end.This grease is all thaty you will need for a properly lubricated bearing. Spread grease evenly around the outside of the rollers. Fit inner cone into hub and tap in new grease seal (lip facing bearing) Having repeated lubricating process on outer cone fit hub back on axle and fit outer cone. Fitflat washer and nut . Do nut up while turning hub so as to seat bearings. Tighten nut until a slight drag is felt when turning the hub. Now comes the difficult part. Without touching the hub undo the nut until it is slightly loose then do it back up until it just touches the bearing. THis is a no preload -no freeplay position for the bearing. Having achieved this, pin the nut . IF it is necessary to turn the nut to allow this to happen tighten the nut slightly. Refit dust cap ,calpier, wheel etc REmember to replace both bearings cups and cones and use high temp grease Safety first --place the vehiocle in stands--- not bricks
Just remove the wheel/tire, then remove the dust cap, remove the cotter pin and then remove the nut that holds the brake drum/hub assembly onto the spindle. Then remove the grease seal on the backside of the hub and remove the bearing. Wipe them off, inspect them for discoloration and flaking of the rollers, if good then just pack new grease into the bearings and re-install the bearing into the hub and install a new grease seal, then place the hub/drum back on the spindle and install the outer bearing and the nut, tighten to spec and install the outer nut cotter pin keeper thingy. bend the cotter pin and cut off the excess so the dust cap will fit on and tap it into place. Re-install wheel/tire and torque lugs to spec.
Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Do not lubricate the wheel bearings without first thoroughly cleaning all old grease from the bearing. Use of incompatible bearing lubricants could result in premature lubricant breakdown.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the brake drum or brake disc.
Remove the hub grease cap.
Remove the cotter pin retainer, adjusting nut and flatwasher from the rear wheel spindle. Discard the cotter pin.
Remove the outer bearing and cone assembly.
Remove the rear hub from rear wheel spindle.
Using Seal Remover (TOOL-1175-AC) or equivalent, remove and discard the oil seal.
Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly.
Clean the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the bearing cups for scratches, pits, excessive wear and other damage. If the bearing cups are worn or damaged, remove them using a Bearing Cup Puller (T77F-1102A) or equivalent.
To install:
Throughly clean old grease from the surrounding surfaces. If a new hub assembly is being installed, remove the protective coating using degreaser.
If the inner or outer bearing cups were removed, install replacement cups using Bearing Cup Replacer (T73-1202-A) or equivalent. Seat the cups properly in the hub.
If a bearing packer is not available, work as much grease as possible between the rollers and cages. Grease the cone surfaces.
Using a bearing packer, pack the bearing cone and roller assemblies with a premium bearing grease.
Place inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. A light film of grease should be included between the lips of the new grease retainer.
Install the retainer with Hub Seal Replacer (T83T-1175-B) or equivalent. Be sure the retainer is properly seated.
Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the retainer and spindle threads.
Install the hub assembly on the spindle.
Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly on the spindle.
Install the flat washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 18-23 ft. lbs. (24-31 Nm) while rotating the hub to set the end-play. Back off the nut and retighten to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
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