Question about 2001 Honda XR 650 L
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
XR650L no spark After 3 years finally asking for ur help PLEASE
XR650L No Spark Intermittent issues
XR650L Service Manual pdf
HONDA XR650 Owner Manual
Posted on Aug 08, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2001 xr 650 r uncorked
try backing the fuel screw on the bottom of the carb out to about three turns out from lightly seated.if this doesnt help or you see no change bump your pilot jet up probally about one to two sizes
Posted on Dec 23, 2008
To get an accurate reading on your oil level , you have to start the motorcycle engine and run it for a at least 5 minutes longer if it is cold outside . A short drive works good. Then unscrew the dipstick on the frame above the tank , wipe it off , make sure the bike is level (upright) and put the dipstick back in till it seats(but do not screw it in). Now take it out and read the level. Top up as necessary but do not over fill. Use only JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cooler climates. 20w-50 for warmer conditions. Any oil that says Energy conserving on the label will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. Synthetic oil help your bike run cooler and shift easier. 0w40 Amzoil runs great in my 1996 XR 400 Honda.
Posted on Oct 06, 2010
SOURCE: Can I lower my Honda XR 650? How
The quickest way is to go to http://www.koubalink.com/ . The link is around $125.00 and will lower your bike 1 1/2 inches. Need to go lower, time to shave some foam off the seat. But first I would take the seat off and sit on the bike after your lowering link was installed to get an idea if this shaving step is going to do the trick. If you still need more lowering you will be looking at wheel and tire sizes these parts can get expensive.
Posted on Apr 19, 2011
SOURCE: no spark not the spark
Hi Also look for bad CDI unit. There is a green/white wire going to the CDI unit that has battery power when the starter button is pressed but no current flow because the current grounds thru the side stand or neutral switch. There are two diodes in this circuit, a clutch diode and a neutral/side stand diode. If the side stand switch tests good then It is probably one of these diodes that is the problem.
The most likely cuase is a bad ignition pulse generator. Look for the two wire connector on the front frame downtube just above the exhaust header. Wires are blue/yellow and green/white. Unplug the connector and check resistance; it should be 423-517 ohms on the wires that go to the engine. If good check each wire to ground, there should be no continuity. If that checks good switch your meter to the lowest setting for AC volts. Remove the sparkplug, attach your meter leads to each wire, switch the key on and press the starter button. You should get about 1/2 volt AC each revolution of the engine. Remove the sparkplug so the engine will rotate faster and it will be easier to see the needle on the meter move if you are using an analog meter. Also Try checking the pulse generator wires for that same voltage reading that you got at the engine wire connector. Also check for battery voltage at the ignition control unit black/white pin with the ignition and kill switch on.
Check for loose wire connector on the connectors to the ignition control unit. Closely inspect all of the individual connectors to ensure they are all the same height, that they are all clean and that they are a tight fit on the pins from the ICU. Honda actually has a test tool to check each connector for a tight fit but you can use an old pin of the same thickness if you have one. If all that checks good then use some dielectric grease on the connectors and reattach them.
Next check for a good ground connection on the battery ground connection. Check it at the battery and at the engine. Remove it, clean it with a wire brush and reattach it using dielectric grease on the terminal. Locate the main wire harness ground to the frame. It should a green ring terminal bolted to the frame. Clean it just like the battery ground.
Next try unplugging the side stand three wire connector. Make a short jumper wire to connect the green and the green/white wires on the harness side of the connector. Check for spark then hold the clutch lever in and check for spark again.
Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com
Also look for bad CDI unit. There is a green/white wire going to the CDI unit that has battery power when the starter button is pressed but no current flow because the current grounds thru the side stand or neutral switch. There are two diodes in this circuit, a clutch diode and a neutral/side stand diode. If the side stand switch tests good then It is probably one of these diodes that is the problem.
Posted on May 16, 2011
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