Question about Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail Classic Motorcycles
Bike will start run good, once warmed up it will not idle without a little throttle?
Posted by Anonymous on
Check for DTCs Could be idle control module, could be temperature sensor
Posted on Oct 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have a 2000 Vulcan Nomad FI & had a very similar problem. In fact, it's a very common problem with these bikes. I fixed it by replacing the Clutch Spring. (As Described here: http://www.gadgetjq.com/clutch_spring_replacement.htm
It cost me $40 and 3 hours of time with an impact wrench.
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
I would suggest that you have the valve clearances checked.
Also, check that the carb is clean. Pay particular attention to the PILOT JET as this opperates the idle circuit.
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
Here's the deal. I have never even heard of your bike brand but I have 18 years in bike repair. If you promise not to give me anything less than a "helpful" rating I will tell you how to do the fix based on the assumption that the bike has a standard carb and not a CV carb. The standard carb has a top "cap" that unscrews from the center of the carb body.
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine. Now unscrew the top cap and pull the slide out of the throat of the carb. When you re-install the slide, be sure the long notch on the side of the slide lines up with the small pin inside the throat of the carb.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
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Posted on Jun 09, 2009
You need to fix the fueling first - without fuel it won't run!
Your other problem sounds like an air leak - either the manifold or the carb. Check by spraying WD-40 or CRC at the manifold and carb join while the bike is running - if the revs change (either up or down) you have a leak.
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
It sounds like your bike has been sitting in storage for an extended period of time (a year or more) - and the carburetors are plugged up. If this is the case, they will need to be completely disassembled and cleaned out.
If it hasn't been sitting (and the carbs aren't plugged up) then check that all of the normal tune-up items have been performed, especially valve adjustment, oil and filters, spark plugs, etc. If this fails to produce positive results, perform a compression check on the engine. Each cylinder must be able to produce at least 140 psi of compression in order to run and idle properly.
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
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