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Re: Clutch went out during the ROT parade.
Yes. As brake fluid ages it absorbs water from the atmosphere. This lowers the boiling point and water is more corrosive to the bits in your braking system than brake fluid. I would flush & fill with dot 4 or dot 5.1 (not dot 5, that's not compatible) since you're having trouble with boiling.
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Now you need to bleed the clutch at the clutch slave cylinder down on the transmission to restore the clutch.
Put a wrench on the bleed valve and open it, then lightly close it. Now have someone pump the clutch a couple of times to build pressure. Then while the clutch pedal is slowly pressed down open the bleed valve, then close valve as pedal gets to floor. Repeat this bleed process until a steady stream of brake fluid comes out the bleed valve. Then you should have a good clutch again.
Bleeding the hydraulics will not improve the friction drive of the clutch in any way,your clutch drive plate is worn out and needs replacing. To bleed the hydraulic line ,make sure that the master cylinder is fully topped up,pump clutch lever several times then tie ,using a zip tie the clutch lever all the way to the handle bar,gently open the bleed screw and await fluid to start dripping from the bleed screw, this may take an hour or two but it will eventually bleed itself,once 25% of the fluid has discharged from the the master cylinder tighten up the bleed screw and this is the easiest DIY way of bleeding a hydraulic system, without a pressure bleeder.
Did any fluid come out? It has to have fluid reach the slave cylinder, and when bleed valve is open and clutch is pressed, fluid should squirt out. Open the valve and pump the clutch until fluid is forced down into the slave cylinder. Keep topping up the clutch master cylinder so it won't run dry.
Post back if still having problems. There is a tool at auto parts stores for pressure bleeding brake lines and clutch lines. It forces fluid into the lines by pressure. If nothing works, your clutch master cylinder may have failed. Take the line off at the slave cylinder and see if the master cylinder is working to push fluid through the line.
Any evidence of leaking frorm the clutch lever area or lines down to the clutch? Remove the cover on the clutch reservoir and fill. squeeze handle slowly to see if there is bubbles or fluid spray. Will most likely have to bleed the clutch. Bleed is on left side lower end of the clutch hose. Squeeze clutch lever several times and open the bleed. Close bleed and do again. When you get good solid flow of fluid, should have a good clutch. Look for leaks.
Hydraulic Clutch System BLEEDING
The clutch system can be bled using a pressure bleeder. Follow the instructions that come with the pressure bleeder for the proper pressure bleeding procedure. The maximum line pressure while pressure bleeding must not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa).
NOTE: To bleed a clutch manually requires the assistance of a second person, a section of hose that is compatible with brake fluid (preferably clear) and fits the slave cylinder bleed screw snugly and a container to catch the fluid that is bled through the system. As brake hydraulic fluid easily absorbs moisture, always use fresh fluid when bleeding a hydraulic system.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
To bleed the system perform the following:
Top off the hydraulic fluid reservoir using a fluid that meets the standards of the vehicle's hydraulic system.
Open the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw and press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold the pedal down.
Close the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
Release the clutch pedal.
Check the hydraulic fluid level and top off as necessary.
Repeat the above steps until the discharged fluid is clean and no air bubbles appear during the bleeding process.
More than Likely your clutch reservoir is low on fluid and has leaked all the fluid out so check that first if the reservoir is empty then fill it with brake fluid. Then it will need to be bleed if you don't know how it would be better to take it to a mechanic. Let me know if you want to try it and I will help you.
1. Fill master cylinder reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Raise and support vehicle. Attach bleeder hose to bleeder screw on bleed line of slave cylinder. See Fig. 1 (attached in link) . Place other end of hose in glass container 1/2 full of brake fluid. Loosen bleeder screw while holding bleeder screw fitting.
2. Have an assistant depress clutch pedal to the floor. Tighten bleeder screw and release clutch pedal. Repeat bleeding procedure until fluid entering container is free of bubbles. DO NOT allow reservoir to run out of fluid during bleeding. Refill clutch master cylinder reservoir.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow bleed line to bend or flex when loosening bleeder screw.
On a Ford Ranger you need to have the clutch master cylinder facing up when you are looking at it mounted on the vechile it is pointing down you need to have it facing up and also have a bleeding tool I went out and bought a POhoenix Injector which makes it real easy and you can do it buy your self. Good luck
The 09 models come with a "parade" mode which causes the rear cyclinder to quit firing when idling in traffic etc to combat over heating. You should be able to kick it on by rolling the throttle grip FORWARD for 5 to 10 seconds. Have you changed the pipes or air filter? If you have and never had the EFI adjusted (either factory download or fuel tuner installed) your bike could be running extra rich causing the over heating and eventual engine destruction. New Harleys run rich from the factory, any changes to the intake/exhaust system without proper fuel injection management will cause overheating. Try getting your bike into parade mode by rolling the throttle forward to the stops for a few seconds, that will cool things down.