Question about 2001 Buell M2 Cyclone
Toe peg was bent, removed peg amr to have it fixed, now won't shift properly.
The Blast Has a slip style shifter assembly - which means that it DOES NOT have teeth that grab the shift shaft that comes out of the case. Instead it has a aluminum 'drum' that the shifter clamps to. This 'drum' allows the shifter to slide up and down on it until you find a spot you like and clamp it down. Since the shifter lever doesn't have any teeth it can slip on the drum. the drum has the teeth and it also goes in between the shift shaft and the shifter lever. It is the ONLY bike I have ever seen with this style of shifter too. Make sure the shift lever isn't cracked or has ANY oil on or inside of it. It will cause it to slip. Another thing to consider - if you had a bent shifter - that means that the shifter hit something very hard. That could also mean that the shifter might have transferred that shock into the transmission causing internal damage.
Posted on Apr 15, 2014
When the shifter is installed too low, it is difficult to fully release the shifter because your footwear is holding the lever up, which then gives the appearance of a transmission problem. Make sure the lever is positioned so that when you shift and release, the lever can move FULLY to the at-rest position.
All the best!
Posted on Apr 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello chopper...glad to see a Buell owner, sorry to hear you are having problems. I have a 2000 Thunderbolt.
When you adjusted your clutch did you adjust it both places..one behind the rubber boot for cable adjustment and the other behind the primary cover?
Also check inside your primary and look for anything that might be rubbing where it shouldn't. New noises are often caused by a new occurence. Also look for metal shavings in your primary fluid and make sure it's full.
Good luck...hope this helps
Posted on May 23, 2009
Your clutch needs to be adjusted. Before you adjust it at the lever you must adjust the clutch itself.
On the primary cover is the clutch inspection cover just behind the driver footpeg bracket. Unfortunately to get to it you must remove the Y-bracket and it's a PITA. The nuts that hold it are in a tight space under the seat just below the base of the fuel tank. Before you remove the bracket completely, just loosen the nuts as far as you can without removing them. You may have enough play to pull the bracket out of the way of the clutch inspection cover.
3 allen head screws hold the inspection cover in place. Be careful not to damage the paper gasket. You should be able to reuse it but to be safe, get yourself an extra before performing the adjustment. It's cheap insurance.
With the cover off you will be able to see the face of the clutch pack. In the center is a stamped steel nut held in place with a spring. It is a type of lock nut that will keep the clutch from readjusting itself. Simply pull this out (nut & spring) and set it aside.
In the center you will now see a shaft with a slot in it. This is where you will make the clutch adjustment. Using a regular screw driver simply turn the shaft clockwise until it firmly seats. Do not crank it down hard! Snug it down once, back it out a turn, then snug it down again. Once snugged down, back it out only 1/4 turn.
Replace the lock nut and spring being careful not to tighten or loosen the adjustment you made any more than needed to get the nut to seat inside the clutch. Once the cover is in place the spring will press against the lock nut keeping it secured.
Make sure where the gasket sits is clean before replacing the gasket and inspection cover. Do nut over tighten the 3 screws that hold the cover. It is only aluminum that they are threading into.
Replace/tighten the Y-bracket for the pegs back into place. If you do not have small hands it might be a good idea to have a small-handed person available to assist you in getting the nuts back on the bracket bolts and hand tightened as much as possible for you.
Now that the clutchis adjusted, you can make adjustments to the cable itself to get the free play out of the clutch lever. The cable adjustment is made at the adjuster located roughly halfway between the lever and the bottom of the bike. It's covered by a rubber boot that keeps out dirt and moisture. Carefully pull the boot to expose the adjustment nuts. The clutch lever is considered properly adjusted when there is 1mm of play between the lever and where it hits the stop near the pivot bolt.
It's really an easy job but don't try to adjust it only at the cable. Adjusting the clutch pack itself it really a breeze and even your shifting should be a little smoother. Good luck! =)
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
The ignition switch is held on by two Torx security bolts, you need a special tool to remove it. You can but the tool here http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=16049
Posted on Nov 13, 2011
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