This bike has been sitting down in our shed for about 5 years. I got it out and found the cylinder had melted due to NO OIL! After boring and installing a new piston I have the motor back in the bike but it will not spark. I have gone over the wires and they all seem to be well connected.
I am not too handy with the multi-meter, but i did try to test Ohms on the ignition coil. and it gave similar results as an ignition coil off of our running 4-wheeler. I tried to test for a sign that the magneto was working and it shows signs on the multimeter. (though i don't know what to look for)
I do have the service manual for it, but am just not having any luck.
Any Ideas? Suggestions? Thank you very much
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2 thins are important to start the bike, SPARK and FUEL.
You can check spark plug, if it is weat and if it have spark.
Make the cylinder compression test, this way you can see, if the the valves are sealed and in what condition are the cylinders.
Hi, Nicolerob if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead battery and not want to start or if it starts it will not idle unless the choke is full on and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition and in the future pour in a bottle of fuel stabilizer and injector cleaner for you FI folks at least 2 times a year and before storage.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging the battery remove the leads and let it sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a voltmeter, you should have 12.5 volts or more, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper "LOAD" test on the battery and replace as necessary, you may have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank if it rusty there is a cheap and easy fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUYr_7SwGms
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil-soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a "CARB DIP" or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Check intake manifold and seals for leaks and craks.
8. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
9. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
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I have a 99 X1 #170/250 it does same thing when its cold. I put the buell race module still does it took it in and had motor turn apart and found nothing bike runs great when its warm you need to let it warm up it should start to fire
simple test: disconnect + battery terminal and check if there is a spark if you touch it back on the terminal ,if not leave terminal disconnected overnight and reconnect terminal and check.if battery flat -replace if not get back to me
The seals in the valve guides are going bad or the cylinder head is not down tight > letting oil into the cylinder, or you have a bad head gasket and "O" ring seal. The problem could be any one of the three causes noted above.
Try tightening down the cylinder head. It may fix the problem. If not then the fix is to pull the cylinder head and inspect the head gasket and "O" ring seal if one is present. If the gasket is dirty and oily then replace the gasket & "O" ring. Consider lapping the valves while the head is off. This will give the valve face and valve seat a fresh mating surface thus providing more power.
If the gasket is clean and dry then the shop will need to replace the valve guides. Be sure they also lap the valves.