Question about 2003 Aprilia Atlantic 500

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Ignition coil brakes down when hot

When hot the RPM drops when idling and hard to start, battery, sparkplug , wire & boot good. could this be a coil issue?

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Hi Anonymous, I would replace it and I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Aprilia but despair not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. DOWNLOAD 2003 Aprilia Atlantic 500

Posted on Oct 21, 2015

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1 Answer

What do u think it will be if my pw80 motorbike starts buts but cuts out after hard braking


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Dirt Rider Magazine
Advice My Son first bike PW80 Page 2
YAMAHA PW80 Owner Service Manual
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YAMAHA PW80 Owner Manual

Apr 30, 2013 | 2011 Yamaha PW80

1 Answer

Auto repair


If it only dies when hot it could be coil related. Sometimes after they get hot if they are bad they will lose spark.After it dies check to see if you are getting spark to your plugs.

Jan 08, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cant get my 03 wideglide to idle at lower rpm,bike dies down when lowering idle screw


Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap to close or to wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connections at battery terminals especially the ground cable at BOTH ends, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor or intake seals.
12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damage intake or exhaust valve.
For a prime suspect please visit website below and good luck:
Big Twin Carb EFI DTC Intructions codes Harley Davidson Forums Harley...

Mar 23, 2012 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide

1 Answer

My buell blast just dies when it gets hot regaurdless of speed. ive done all fluids,air filter,sparkplug , coil,still dies when it heats up ,any ideas?


Hi, Richard the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Fuel tank empty.
13. Gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
14. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and free downloads that you need please visit the websites below and for specific information or questions, please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/150578.html?1444533833
Buell Blast Running Issues Twin Forum Harley Davidson Forums Buell Service Manuals PDF Download
TWIN Motorcycles Buell parts
2001 Buell Blast Owners Operators Owner Manual Factory 2001 eBay

Aug 31, 2011 | Buell Blast Motorcycles

1 Answer

96 acura tl 2.5 rough idle after warm up with rpm swings ignition and fuel pressure good sparkplugs black and new codes; primary o2 heater circuit bad missfire cyl.5 random missfire


REPLACE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR REPLACE SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES IF NOT BEEN CHANGED IN LONG PERIOD OF TIME.CHECK IGNITION TIMING.CHANGE AIR FILTER CLEAN FUEL INJECTORS.IF ENGINE STILL MISFIRE IGNITION COIL IS WEAK OR YOU HAVE LOW CYLINDER COMPRESSION.

Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Acura TL Series

2 Answers

Idle fluxuates up and down consistantly


Check the Idle Control System

Idle speed is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). The IACV changes the amount of air being bypassed to the intake manifold, in response to electric current controlled by the ECM. When the IACV is activated, the valve opens to maintain proper idle speed.

Symptom and Subsystems to Check:

1. Difficult to start engine, when cold--check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.

2. Fast idle out of spec, when cold:
a. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
b. Check IACV.
c. Check idle adjusting screw (see Section C).

3. Rough idle:
a. Check hoses and connections.
b. Check IACV.

4. RPM too high, when warm:
a. Check IACV.
b. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
c. Check hoses and connections, check Power Steering Pressure Switch Signal, and check idle adjusting screw.

5. RPM too low, when warm:
a. Idle speed is below specified rpm, with no load--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.
b. Idle speed doesn't increase after initial start up--check IACV.
c. Idle speed drops in gear (automatic transmission)--check automatic transaxle gear position switch signal.
d. Idle speed drops when AC is on--check air conditioning signal and IACV.
e. Idle speed drops when steering wheel is turned--check power steering pressure switch signal and IACV.
f. Idle speed fluctuates with electrical load--check hoses and connections, IACV, and Alternator FR Signal.

6. Frequent stalling, while warming up--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.

7. Frequent stalling, after warming up--check idle adjusting screw and IACV.

Additional Steps:

. Check Alternator FR Signal. Have alternator inspected, if idle speed fluctuates with electrical load. The FR signal communicates to the ECM how "hard" the alternator is working to meet the electrical demands of the car, including the battery and any loads which aren't monitored by the ELD. This square-wave signal varies in pulse width, according to the load on the alternator. The ECM places, approximately, 5 reference volts on the wire. The voltage regulator will drop this signal to approximately 1.2 volts, in proportion to alternator load. The ECM compares the electrical load (ELD) signal with the FR (Charging Rate) signal from the alternator and uses that information to set the idle speed and turn the alternator on and off. This helps fuel economy.

. Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.

. Reset ECM, by removing the 7.5 amp Back Up Fuse, in the under-hood fuse box, for 10 seconds.

. Replace PCV Valve, cleaning hose with brake cleaner spray.

. Substitute a known-good ECM. If symptom goes away, replace original ECM.

Check the ICM (Erratic RPM and PGM-FI System)

When the engine is cold, the air conditioner compressor is on, the transmission is in gear (automatic transmission only) or the alternator is charging, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. Here's an overview of how the PGM-FI System works.

Background:

Various inputs to the ECM are TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor, MAP Sensor, ECT Sensor, IAT Sensor, TP Sensor, HO2S, VSS, BARO Sensor, EGR Valve Lift Sensor, Starter Signal, Alternator FR Signal, Air Conditioning Signal, Automatic Transmission Shift Position Signal, Battery Voltage (Ignition 1) Brake Switch Signal, PSP Switch Signal, ELD, and VTEC Pressure Switch.

Inputs are received and processed by the ECM's Fuel Injector Timing and Duration, Electronic Idle Control, Other Control Functions, Ignition Timing Control, and ECM Back-up Functions. These are the primary functional areas within the ECM.

Outputs from the ECM control Fuel Injectors, PGM-FI Main Relay (Fuel Pump), MIL (Check Engine Light), Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, A/C Compressor Clutch Relay, Ignition Control Module (ICM), EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve, HO2S Heater, EGR Control Solenoid Valve, Alternator, Lock-up Solenoid Valve A/B (A/T), VTEC Solenoid Valve, and Interlock Control Unit.

Idle RPM:

Once you understand how the PGM-FI system is configured, it's easy to see how the ECM, Idle Air Control Valve, and the Ignition Control Module affect idle rpm. If the ECM's Electronic Idle Control function is not working properly, then it cannot properly control the IAC Valve. Likewise, if the ECM's Ignition Timing Control function is not operating properly, it cannot properly control the ICM (igniter). Obviously, idle rpm will also be affected if there's a problem with the IAC Valve or the ICM. As stated above, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. This cannot happen if the IAC Valve is failing. The same situation exists if the ICM is failing. The ECM will tell the ICM to open and close the primary voltage circuit going to the coil and it won't respond properly. The result will be erratic spark plug firing and erratic rpm.

Conclusion:

If you are experiencing erratic idle rpm, try and isolate whether the problem is caused by the ICM (ignitor), IAC Valve, or the ECM. My experience has been that a failing ICM is usually responsible for the problem. Keep in mind that tachometers are connected directly to the ICM. Therefore, a fluctuating tachometer needle is often a dead giveaway. Heat and poor preventive maintenance (causing high secondary voltage to be discharge on internal distributor components) frequently causes the ICM (and coil) to fail. Besides performance, this is another reason why it's important to regularly replace spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotors, and distributor caps. Electricity will always follow the path of least resistance, even if it isn't the intended one. Our job is to ensure the intended path is the path of least resistance.

Ignitor (ICM) and Coil Replacement:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove hex head machine screws, securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8 mm nut driver.
3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.
4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.
5. Remove rotor and leak cover.
6. Unfasten ignitor wires, remove coil mounting screws, and set coil aside. Note: Removing coil first improves access to igniter.
7. Unfasten screws securing igniter to housing.
8. Remove ignitor from distributor and unfasten screws mounting ignitor to heat sink.
9. Coat back of new ignitor (or old igniter, if reusing) and male connectors with silicone grease. Silicone grease increases heat transfer to heat sink. Failure to apply silicone grease will cause the ignitor to quickly fail.
10. Mount ignitor to heat sink and reinstall ignitor, igniter terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ignitor terminals fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

AutoZone can test ICMs and coils for free. If you plan to keep the car, I would replace the ICM due the age of your Civic.

Sep 15, 2010 | 1991 Honda Civic

1 Answer

How to replace the coil pack on V6 heritage?


prev.gif next.gif Ignition Coil Removal & Installation 4.2L Engine To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • The ignition coil electrical connector
    • The spark plug wires (marking for reinstallation) CAUTION
      Each sparkplug wire must be connected to its correct ignition coil terminal.
    • The ignition coil
    • The bolts
  3. Inspect the ignition coil for carbon tracks or damage.
To Install:
  1. Inspect the ignition coil for carbon tracks or damage.
  2. Install or connect the following:
    • The bolts
      1. Torque To: 53 inch-lbs (6 Nm) (2005-2006)
      2. Torque to: 62 inch-lbs (7 Nm) (2007)
      CAUTION
      Each sparkplug wire must be connected to its correct ignition coil terminal.
    • The spark plug wires (marking for reinstallation)
    • The ignition coil electrical connector
    • The ignition coil
4.6L and 5.4L Engines To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • The negative battery cable
    • The ignition coil electrical connector
    • The ignition coil retaining bolt
  3. Rotate the ignition coil clockwise 30-40 degrees to clear the fuel injection supply manifold.
  4. Remove the ignition coil with a twisting motion while pulling up.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Dielectric compound to the inside of the coil boots
    • The ignition coil with a twisting motion while pushing down
    • The ignition coil retaining bolt
      1. Torque to 53 inch-lbs (6 Nm) for (4.6L 2004 and 5.4L 2004-2007)
      2. Torque to 89 inch-lbs (10 Nm) for (4.6L 2005-2007)
    • The ignition coil electrical connector
    • The battery ground cable
NOTE: Ensure that the ignition coil spring is correctly located inside the ignition coil boot and that there is no damage to the tip of the boot.

Jul 16, 2010 | 2004 Ford F150

1 Answer

1994 buick lesaber car runs till it gets hot then it stalls and wont start till it cools down any ideas whould be helpful thank you


I don't know this car but if I was you I would start with the ignition system. First getting extra spark plug or tests light. When the car is running good, pull the coil or spark plug wire off and test for spark. By puting the sparkplug or tests light in the sparkplug lead. Then when the problem happens tested again to see if you have sparked. also pouring a little fuel down the intake system. If the car starts you have a fuel problem. If it does not start, you may have a bad ignition module are or coil. Good luck.

Jun 04, 2010 | 1994 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Cylinder 3 and 6 not firing


If you had a shorted ignition coil, it may have damaged the ignition module.Take a coil pack from another spot,plug it in just be sure your new one is good.if it still won't spark replace the module.I've seen these that won't spark cold but run ok hot.You can try to heat the module with a hair drier to see if you get it to work,but even if it does you still need a module...good luck

Apr 09, 2010 | 1989 Pontiac Bonneville

1 Answer

How do I test to see if my ignition test good?


start at the coil with dvom or test light to see if there is power to the coil when you turn the key on and the power should be there during cranking the best way is the dvom when you check battery voltage with digital volt meter at the battery record that amount then check the red wire at the coil should be 0.50 volts within battery recorded voltage if its allot less check voltage at ign switch should read real close to battery voltage this is called battery voltage drop testing if you google voltage drop testing it will exsplain further. i hope this helps Thunderboltz.

Jan 13, 2010 | 1995 Geo Prizm

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