Clutch cable adjustment - LS 650 Savage Suzuki Motorcycles

while engine is not running follow the clutch cable back to its point of origin & look for any other clutch adjustments besides the the one at the clutch handle if all clutch cable adjustments are backed off & clutch is still slipping its time for a new clutch assy buy a clymers repair manual,

Because the clutch cable adjuster clearance increases with engine temperature, adjust
the clutch when the engine is cold. If the clutch is adjusted when the engine is hot, insufficient pushrod clearance can cause the clutch to slip.
1. Remove the clutch mechanism inspection cover and
quad ring
2. Remove the clamp and slide the rubber boot off the clutch in-line cable adjuster.
3. Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the adjuster to provide maximum cable slack.
4. Make sure the clutch cable seats squarely in its perch at the handlebar.
5. At the clutch mechanism, loosen the clutch adjusting screw locknut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise until it is lightly seated.
6. Squeeze the clutch lever three times to verify the clutch balls are seated in the ramp release mechanism located behind the transmission side cover.
7. Back out the adjusting screw counterclockwise 1/2 to 1 turn. Then hold the adjusting screw and tighten the locknut to 72-120 in.-lb.(8-14 N•m).
8. Once again, squeeze the clutch lever to its maximum limit three times to set the clutch ball and ramp release mechanism.
9. Check the free play as follows:
a. At the in-line cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away from the locknut until slack is eliminated at the clutch hand lever.
b. Pull the clutch cable sheath away from the clutch lever, then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain the clearance gap
c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch in-line cable locknut and slide the rubber boot over the cable adjuster.
10. Install the clutch inspection cover quad ring onto the primary chain case cover.
11. Install the clutch inspection cover and tighten the screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12 N•m).

Because the clutch cable adjuster clearance increases with engine temperature, adjust
the clutch when the engine is cold. If the clutch is adjusted when the engine is hot, insufficient pushrod clearance can cause the clutch to slip.
1. Remove the clutch mechanism inspection cover and
quad ring
2. Remove the clamp and slide the rubber boot off the clutch in-line cable adjuster.
3. Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the adjuster to provide maximum cable slack.
4. Make sure the clutch cable seats squarely in its perch at the handlebar.
5. At the clutch mechanism, loosen the clutch adjusting screw locknut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise until it is lightly seated.
6. Squeeze the clutch lever three times to verify the clutch balls are seated in the ramp release mechanism located behind the transmission side cover.
7. Back out the adjusting screw counterclockwise 1/2 to 1 turn. Then hold the adjusting screw and tighten the locknut to 72-120 in.-lb.(8-14 N•m).
8. Once again, squeeze the clutch lever to its maximum limit three times to set the clutch ball and ramp release mechanism.
9. Check the free play as follows:
a. At the in-line cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away from the locknut until slack is eliminated at the clutch hand lever.
b. Pull the clutch cable sheath away from the clutch lever, then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain the clearance gap
c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch in-line cable locknut and slide the rubber boot over the cable adjuster.
10. Install the clutch inspection cover quad ring onto the primary chain case cover.
11. Install the clutch inspection cover and tighten the screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12 N•m).

The clutch friction plates may be worn out.

The clutch adjustment is likely way out in any case. You will need to go into the inspection (derby) cover and adjust the clutch and the cable adjustment will have to be done at the same time.



Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with a one half inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a nine sixteenths inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN using a T27 TORX driver, remove the five TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover (derby cover) and seal in the primary cover (unless it has a gasket as aftermarket or Screaming Eagle covers will have in which case remove the gasket). IF the screws are very tight use a spring loaded impact driver with the correct T-27 TORX bit and a suitable sized hammer to shock them loose OR heat them with a hot air gun (sometimes people also put Loctite on the screw threads which then may need heat to break down this locking compound). THEN using an Allen key in, and to hold, the adjustment screw and a wrench on the locknut loosen the locknut and then turn the adjusting screw in or clockwise until resistance is felt (to take up all free play and lightly seat the adjuster to the clutch push rod but no more) and then activate the clutch lever to ensure that the clutch release balls are seated in the ramps. THEN back off the adjusting screw one half to one full turn. THEN holding the Allen key and adjusting screw so neither can move anymore tighten the locknut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 NM). THEN squeeze the clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set the ball and ramp release mechanism. THEN replace the cover seal or gasket if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that the seal is fully seated in the groove of the cover and if there is a gasket make sure it is facing the correct way i.e. with the rubber sealing surface towards the primary cover and the triangulated screw hole to the top. THEN using the T-27 TORX driver, install the five TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12Nm). THEN move to the cable adjuster and turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever free play, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of free play between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this free play then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. These cable adjuster instructions are for stock HD clutch cables as aftermarket cables will be somewhat different to adjust BUT the idea will be the same.

Loosen clutch cable (if not hydraulic clutch) completely (clutch cable adjustment is about 1/2 way down cable.
Remove derby cover on primary cover. Looks similar to this:

http://www.hdforums.com/forum/attachments/touring-models/118583d1274757072-derby-covers-derby-1.jpg

Loosen locknut on adjuster screw in center of clutch pressure plate:

http://www.chopperassemblyvideos.com/images/Clutch%20Adjustment_JPG.jpg

Screw adjuster in until it JUST touches.
Back off 1/2 to 1 full turn.
Hold screw to prevent it turning while locknut is tightened.

Readjust clutch cable until it has about 1/16" to 1/8" free pay.

Measure by pulling cable away from clutch lever and check the gap:

http://i.ehow.com/images/a02/73/i9/adjust-motorcycle-clutch-cable-800x800.jpg

Try adjusting the clutch. Sounds like it won't fully disengage when the clutch is pulled in. Adjust the cable first. Make sure there is about the thickness of a quarter between the clutch cable and the perch. If it doesn't work then try adjusting it the same down at the bottom. Make sure you fully collapse the clutch cable if doing the adjustment down below first. Then once the bottom is adjusted, re adjust the cable by the perch. If that doesn't cure your problem then you need to go into the clutch itself.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

To adjust your clutch on your Sporty, find the cable adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. Move the cover out of the way, break the locknut loose, and adjust the adjuster inwards to get as much freeplay in the cable as possible.

Now, remove the cover from the clutch release mechanism on the primary cover. Remove the spring and the locknut. Inside you'll see a slotted adjuster screw. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise as far as it will go. Then back up clockwise 1/2 turn. Reinstall the locknut and the spring, then the cover.

Go back to the cable adjuster in the cable and adjust the adjuster outwards until you get about a 1/8" freeplay in the clutch cable. Work the clutch several times and check the freeplay. If correct. lock the locknut and replace the protective boot.

Good Luck
Steve

Slide the rubber boot away from the clutch cable adjuster.
Loosen the cable locknut and turn the adjuster to provide as much cable slack at the clutch lever as possible.
Support the bike so that it's sits straight up.
Remove the clutch inspection cover.
Slide the spring with the attached lockplate off of the adjusting screw flats.
Turn the clutch adjusting screw counterclockwise until the screw stops. Then turn the clutch adjusting screw clockwise 1/4 turn.
Install the lockplate and spring onto the adjuster screw flats. You may have to turn the adjuster slightly to get the lockplate to line up.
Reinstall the clutch inspection cover and O-ring.
Adust the clutch cable at the cable adjuster all the way out and work the clutch a time or two. Now adjust the cable so that you have between 1/16" and 1/8" of freeplay at the clutch lever.
Tighten the cable adjuster locknut and replace rubber boot.
Good Luck

i doubt it will be the clutch cable but either the clutch is worn or what is more likely is the clutch cable adjuster, the clutch cable adjuster can be found where your clutch pedal is, it is prudent to replace the cable and adjuster at the same time,

The clutch cable for your vehicle is an auto adjust clutch cable... assuming it is using oem equipment. if you tension seems incorrect you may want to pick up this Manual adjust clutch cable http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Clutch/39/11 the auto adjust ones tend to go out and ruin your clutch. the manual adjust is a direct swap out for the auto adjust. if you need info on how to install please reference this site http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1569293