Require to have full choke, and takes approx 15 minutes to warm up. my left pipe is hot during this and my right pipe is cold. do i have a stuck exhaust valve? i also noticed my plug is black, still charging a spark, but a power loss is highly noticeable.
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Dieseling or running-on is a fairly natural consequence of an engine that is idling too fast or being switched off before the idle has been restored after being revved.
Changes to engine design to improve acceleration and economy and meet new emission regulations required higher idle speeds and dieseling became a common problem which required the introduction of a fuel cut-off solenoid on many carburettors.
Dieseling is sometimes the result of overheating or too much carbon in the combustion chamber.
The design changes mentioned above required changes to carburation, including the choke design and operation. Complying with new emission regs required a quick engine warm-up and for the automatic choke to disengage in about two minutes. A higher fast idle was also required and mostly at least one vacuum servo was used to ensure smooth running during the warm-up period.
In order to disengage the choke quickly, it was often arranged to be heated, either by electricity alone or by electricity and hot water.
If the fuse has been removed the choke will not work correctly. Why the previous owner removed the fuse is a mystery, perhaps there is a fault.
The choke must be put back into good operation in order to achieve proper fuel economy and smooth running, or alternatively the carburettor could be converted to manual choke.
Spark plugs are right color- due to 'drag pipes your bike no longer has the 'backpressure' required and this will result in pops and backfires when throttle is 'let go'- put factory pipes back on and it'll probably run like a champ-those hondas run forever-just don't **** around with factory specs-they don't respond well-if your lookin for a Harley sound-buy a Harley-if you want cheap reliable transport-leave your honda stock, good-luck.
You didn't say what year or model your bike was but if it runs better when it's cold than it does when it's hot, this is an indication that it's running rich. Does the bike start up and idle without the use of the choke or very little use of the choke? If so, another indication that it's rich. Take the air filter cover and element off, leave the backing plate on, and take the bike for a ride. If it runs better, yet another indicator that it's running too rich. What type of carb is on the bike? This is unusual as most bikes,unless they've been rejetted, are jetted lean and have a nasty habit of spitting back from the carb.
check for a vacume leak, as its been along time since i've looked at one of these is there a vacuum pipe on the distributor, this is the advanced timing if it has one on this engine, there is a diaphragm in this that over time can leak, this leaking would make hard starting on cold start if its failing.
It depends on the tempature, if its pretty chilly out yeah. Try easing the choke in slowly, and when it will idle at about half choke go aheand and take off but run the bike easy for a few minutes then close the choke.
no doubt this bike is running very lean at idle. Thats the way the EPA wants it. Im a harley mechanic and i used to work in a US dealer. all carb bikes at set up time had the carbs "readjusted". We drilled out the EPA plug and turned the idle air screw out and drilled out the pilot jet too. The bikes worked much better. we were at sea level too so the bikes were very lean from the factory. I can imagine that after the new legislation that came into force they are even leaner and require a full warm up to run properly. Warmed up means you put your hand on the motors head and its hot enought to have to jerk it away. this could take more than a couple minutes. and yes our "readjustment" was illegal. i advice you to do the same.