Engine stalled on freeway, wouldn't restart until gas pedal floored, stalled again, restarting drained battery, car overheated after stalling again, when running, the engine sounds okay in neutral but sounds like bucket of bolts when in gear,
Old post , no year car, 1989 to 2002
there are 3 engines, 2 up to 1998. all made by toyota overheating is it,
forget all else. FIND reason for overheating, coolant lost top list.
if loosing coolant that is #1 above all else. find cause.
but
overheating KILLS all ENgines. if not cured fast.
warps heads
is it pinging? that too kills engines.
your engine should never overheat unless it has cooling problems or.
unless the head is warped now, it will overheat, due to coolant loss
is it loosing coolant every hour or day?
CRANKING ALL ENGINES THAT DONT START DRAINS ALL BATTERIES, IT'S NOT a SYMPTOM IT'S NORMAL FOR NOSTARTS. (starter sucks 100 amps from battery every try)
id do a compression test first.
look for coolant in these spots
1: pavement below car.
2: passenger foot wells. (heat core leaks)
3: low radiator at neck cold show no coolant seen there.
4: in the a/t transmission, turns AFT to chocolate milk.
5: water in the engine oil pan, and or the reverse.
oil in the radiator, or side tank.
do all you can to not overheat any engine, and keep the repair bill like 1/3 or less. of BOOM
Sounds like the torque converter clutch solenoid is bad. Unplug it and see if the problem stops. Unplug the 4 wire plug on the front of the transmission.
try blowing out all the fule lines and changing the fule filters the lines may be blocked up also check the fule tank vent if this is blocked the pump cant **** fule from it
Sounds like your timing belt is stretched or stretching when it's under stress. Check your timing and start thinking about needing to get that or the Timing belt adjuster changed. Also run a bottle of injector cleaner through your system.
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Have it hooked up to a diagnostic scan tool ,check engine sensor data parameters . Fuel pressure test it as well ! Check for vacuum leaks .When it stalls have you try pushing on the gas pedal a little an then trying to start it then ? Not to the floor because this cuts off fuel injectors .
Died on freeway and would not restart ? When you turned the key what happened ? Did the starter engage and spin the engine ? Or nothing happened . Why did you charge the battery ? Did you drain it trying to start it or it drained when driving the vehicle an it killed it ? Before replacing parts did you have it diagnosed or did you just replace parts ? 048 Engine Hard to Start or No Start Scan Data for Starting Problems If you don't know how to test ,your best bet find someone like this .
You don't say what size engine you have, so diagnostic analysis is a bit difficult. Please supply engine size and answer these questions.
1. After it stalls, do you sometimes smell fuel? 2. Does it restart easily after a stall, or do you have to hold the gas pedal to the floor to restart it? 3. Can you keep it running by working the gas pedal? 4. Has you fuel consumption increased since this began?
I ask these questions because on most engines there is a coolant temperature sensor that the ECM used to control the amount of fuel to the injectors based upon the engine coolant temperature. When the engine is cold it supplied more fuel than when warm. If the sensor malfunctions it tells the ECM that the coolant is -40F and that causes massive fuel to be supplied. This may not affect a cold start once the engine needs the fuel, but it will flood and stall out the motor when warm. If you can keep the engine running by pressing the gas pedal, you are allowing the motor to rev up and use the extra fuel, but you will find you gas mileage reduces by as much as half.
The first thing that must be done is to have the engine control computer scanned for fault codes to help diagnose this stall condition, all repairs are based on what shows up (or doesn't show up).
You will need to check all the fuses, the main and inside fuse box. for the amp fuse to blow the jumper cables or battery were installed backwards. check all fuses i think you will find another bad one. as far as the batttery light being on, you may have a bad alternator. the car will run until it drains the new battery. the battery light may still be on once you get car started. have the charging system checked.
Again i think its just a bad fuse, the car was starting fine until the battery replacement.
The last thing is that sometimes they loose the idle memory or get flooded from connecting battery with key on, try to start by controlling the gas. hold gas pedal to floor and try to start engine. asengine starts slowly release gas. if car stalls out when gas pedal is let go then restart and hold gas pedal a little for about 2min then release and let idle, good day.
it sounds like the vehicle is starving itself for fuel... if it runs fine in town, or on close trips... sounds like when your on the freeway, and got the gas down its demanding fuel, and not getting what it needs to run, thats why it will start right back up.. if i were you i think i would start with the cheapest thing first and replace the fuel filter.. hope this helps.
try starting it with the pedal pressed in a little and run it for a few seconds like that and put some injector cleaner in it. also if it stalled and wont restart then try pressing the pedal all the way to the floor because it could be flooded and that will cut off the fuel supply
Common issue at the shop (i'm a ford technician), here is what I do to correct it. Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls at stops and low erratic idle speed and rough idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve (IAC for short), they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
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