Look fore your compresion frome the two cilinders. if its good look for the exhaust lots of carbon in the tail pipe. so not its a posibel that your oll seal its broken and the fuel gas leaks between the two chambers greeds j kerkhof
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You mean the revs come up even if the throttle is left in idle?
If yes: it means your idle runs too lean AND the carbs aren't balanced ( one gives more air than another )
Unscrew all the idle mix screws 1/2 turn
To balance, remove 1 spark plug lead, check the rev falling.
Replace the lead and remove another one. Check the rev fall etc...
Regulate the carb opening so that all the cilinder disconnects give the same rev-drop.
Check the plug color to see if it is normal. I would put new spark plug caps and new spark plugs on the machine and see if that helps . From what you describe , if the spark plug caps do not work , you will probably have to either , adjust your air screw setting or change your pilot jets up one size to compensate for the other changes.
Did you accidentally cross the spark plug wires?
Other wise its going to be hard to diagnose,
Do you have plenty of compression,
Are you getting gas to the spark plugs?
Is the air filter clean/new?
You will need a factory service manual to diagnose further if all the above is ok
2 things need to be done first start your bike get a can of wd40 after your bike is warm and running spray around the carb jointsall 4 of them if your engine changes rpms up or down you have a intake leak ether your carb joint gaskets or o-rings need replacing or your carb joints are old and need replacing. at this point wont hurt to have you carbs cleaned also
This is an easy one - there is a mouse nest in your airbox or in the muffler. To find out disconnect the exhaust at the cylinders and start and rev the engine - if it is OK its in the muffler. If it still bogs take the airbox and filter apart and clean them out.
The problem with vents is that a vent can get plugged and lessen or completely kill the flow of fuel. They will not make an engine rev wildly. Your banshee has standard carbs. The throttle cables may be routed incorrectly, pinching or stretching the cables. Remove the air filters. Look inside the carbs. Do the slides move freely up and down when the throttle is twisted? In the diagram below note the junction tube on the throttle cabel. The cable can stick at inside the tube. Is the connector hose between the carbs in place? Also, there is a switch on top of the carb. This can go haywire also. Odd that the problem was not present before they cleaned the carbs. Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?
sounds like your carb could be blocked with dirt if it wont start unless you put juice down plug i would take the carb off and give it a good clean and also make sure the jets ok just clean them with carb cleaner and a paper clip
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Before putting the slide back in the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
When was the last time new crank bearings and seals were installed? With all the work you have done on the carb I think the problem is the crank seals. But, check the bearings. At rest, the flywheel must be rock solid > no movement up or down, left or right.
If the bearings are solid then only replace the seals. Chances are the engine can stay in the frame if only the seals are being replaced. Best part is that seals are a low cost item.
One other possibility is a partially blocked exhaust system. Check the exhaust first. Checking the exhaust doesn't cost anything. Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the motor. Excite the neighbors by a quick ride down the street with no muffler. If the problem is instantly fixed then get a new exhaust.
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