2007 ultra classic back firing

make sure your cables are not binding up somewhere. sounds like the throttle is sticking open. nothing to do with the trans.

It sounds like your shifter pawl is broken. It's trying to roll the shifter drum but it's not rolling it quite far enough for the drum to index to the next detent. It is rolling it far enough to put out the neutral indicator light. If this is the problem, a teardown of the transmission is required to repair this.

There is one other possibility. From the foot shift lever, follow the shifter rod back to the shift lever on the transmission. This is the shift lever that connects to the shifter pawl shaft. I"ve seen lots of them get worn to the point that they feel like they are going to fall off. When they get like that, they don't shift well. To repair this, you will have to pull the complete primary to get to it. If the splines on the shaft are worn badly enough, you're back to pulling down the transmission to replace the shifter pawl shaft.

Good luck
Steve

There are two possibilities. The first is the most probable. From the foot shift lever, follow the shifter rod back to the shift lever on the transmission. The shift levers get worn and no longer shift the transmission like they should. You'll have to remove the outer and inner primary to get to the lever to replace it. If the splines on shifter pawl shaft are worn out, you'll have to pull the transmission down to replace the shifiter pawl shaft.

The other problem is that the shfiter pawl is broken and not rolling the shifter drum far enough for it to engage in the detent slots for the gears. To fix this is again, a teardown of the transmission.

Good luck
Steve

toe down for first, half click heel for neutral, then heel shift for 2,3,4,5. toe down to down shift.

There's only two things that could possibly make contact with the top cover and cause any problem. One is the shifter pawl and the other is neutral switch.

The shifter pawl return springs are notorious for breaking in the five speed transmissions. I've replaced a load of them. Take your foot shifter pedal and lift up on it until the transmisson just tries to shift. Then go back to the center position and press the lever down until the transmission just tries to shift. Does the spring pressure feel the about the same in both directions. If not, the shifter pawl return spring is broken.

With the top off, you can inspect the small spring on the sfifter pawl itself. See if that spring is broken. This is about the only thing that I know of in a five speed that will cause shifting problems. But then, I never claimed to know it all.

Good Luck
Steve

Try rolling the bike backwards and forwards with the engine off while trying to shift the gears. It should shift through all the gears. If not, the problem is a broke shifter pawl. If it does, the clutch is not releasing properly.

The shifter pawl can be replaced fairly simply. The clutch is a different story. If the clutch is dragging, you need to determine exactly why it's not releasing. Bad cable, not adjusted correctly. Good Luck!

idle cable out of adjustment and or throttle cable needs adjusting also and they always need to be lubed at 5000 miles adjust throttle cable with wheel striaght forward idle cable to all the way right lock and 2-3mm free play on throttle grip

With bike not running, rock the bike backwards and forwards and shift through all the gears. If it shifts all the way to fifth gear and back down, then the problem is not in the transmission. If you can't shift the transmission into any gear with the bike not running, just rocking it backwards and forwards, then you've got a problem with the transmission or the shift lever mechanism.

If it does shift but you still can't get it into gear something is strange. I've seen a clutch that the plates were locked together from sitting up, but it still would shift into gear. Of course, when it did shift into first gear, the bike would lurch forward and kill the engine. In this case, we had to disassemble the clutch pack and free the plates up. If you've had a new clutch put in the bike, it could simply need an adjustment. But, usually a new clutch will have a tendency to wear in and start to slip rather than drag. When a clutch causes the bike to lurch when put into gear or become difficult to find neutral with the engine running, it's dragging. I'd check the entire clutch adjustment to start with.

Slide the rubber boot on the clutch cable up, break the lock nut loose and turn the adjuster to make the cable as short as possible. Take the derby cover off the primary to gain access to the clutch release adjuster bolt. Break the large locknut loose, adjust the center bolt inward until you feel resistance. Back the screw back out and back in until you feel resistance again several times. You want to just take the slack out of the adjustment, not start to open the clutch up. Once you've turned the bolt in and feel the resistance, back the bolt back out 1/2 to 1 complete turn. Hold the bolt in this position and lock the lock nut again. Now, adjust the clutch cable back out until you get a freeplay of about an 1/8 inch at the lever. The clutch should be adjusted well enough to release at this point. If it doesn't, the clutch plates are probably stuck.

If the clutch plates are stuck, rock the bike back and forth and shift the bike into fourth or fifth gear. Now, while holding the clutch lever in, push the bike backwards and forwards far enough to "bump" the clutch. This may break the bond between the plates and free it up. If not, you'll have to disassemble the clutch in order to free it up. Good Luck.

is the throtle cable free it my be hung up under the tank or somewhere in the routing