Question about Honda Silverwing 600 Motorcycles

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I replaced my stator on my 1983 650 silver wing interstate

I replaced my stator and the charging system puts out only 12.5 volts enough power for headlight signals and brake light cannot run tail light or light bar or battery discharges. Is it my auxiliary voltage regulator. Changed the regulator under the battery with the fins and no change. Thanks for the help. It is a 1983 650 Silver Wing Interstate super condition with 45000 kms

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Where did you get the stator?? If not factory... You might want to us a volt meter and measure the resistance. You can find the resistance specs in its honda service manual. Give some more info!!

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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Need a wireing diagram for 149 cub cadet mower tractor it does not charge


The Battery Won't Charge or stay charged.
Several possibilities
  1. Key switch doesn't turn off the system and the battery drains while it's parked.
  2. Bad insulation on the wiring somewhere and the battery drains down.
  3. The alternator is not putting out enough power or no power at all.
  4. The battery is bad.
Let's consider the battery first. This is an easy check if you have a cheap, simple volt meter. It's much better to have an old fashioned needle meter rather than a digital. The needle is more sensitive, much quicker, and makes a clearer diagnostic tool. But not to worry, for you fancy folks a digital still works (sometimes the results are not as easy to decipher).
  1. Set the meter to DC Volts.
  2. Attach the red and black leads of the meter to the positive and negative posts of the battery. Most modern day digital meters don't care if the polarity is correct or not. However, if you have a needle meter, best to put the positive of the battery with the red wire of the meter; otherwise the needle will not be happy with you.
  3. Note voltage. It should read near or above 13 volts if the battery is good and fully charged. If it reads below 12 volts the battery needs charged or it has bad cells. If after charging a few hours, the voltage is still below 12 volts then the cells are bad, replace it. That should solve your problem. If not...continue.
  4. "Load Test". Turn the key to crank the engine while keeping your eyes on the meter. Whether the engine cranks (turns over) or not, the meter should not fall much below 11 Volts. If it falls below 10 volts or worse yet below 9 volts, the battery has a bad cell or two. Replace the battery, charge it, and repeat the test.
  5. If the engine starts, rev it up and watch the meter.
    1. If the charging system is working the voltage on the meter should quickly rise above 13 volts.
    2. If it rises up strongly towards the 14 volt range this indicates the charging system of the machine is working.
    3. If it plays around down near 12 volts you are reading the recovered voltage of a good battery, but the charging system is not working.
    4. If it simply stays below 11 volts, the battery and the charging system are both suspect.
      1. Charge you battery.
      2. Repeat the test.If you get the same results...continue
      3. Replace the battery.
      4. Fully charge it,
      5. Repeat the tests before worrying about the charging system.
Note: if the battery falls below 9 volts the fuel cut off, a black cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor (if your model has this), will cut off the gas supply to the carburetor.

If the battery passes all the tests and you still don't get 13-14 volts of charge it's time to test the charging system.

Small engines have 3 different possible alternators, standard circuit, dual circuit, tri circuit. I would need the exact engine model numbers in order to precisely answer your question. Often mower models have choices for the engine they come with. In this situation the engine model is more important than the model of the mower.

Testing an alternator is fairly simple; all you need is the same multi-meter used for battery testing. Do take note: The settings for battery testing are DC Volts. The Settings for Stator or Alternator testing are AC Volts (in the 50 Volt range).
  1. Disconnect the connector from stator. The stator is right there on top of the engine under the plastic/metal fan guard. Take this off and look for a pigtail wire with a connector. Don't get the coil wire with the spark plug end.
  2. Set multi-meter for AC volts.
  3. Attach RED test lead to either pin on stator side of stator connector. (On single wire leads, attach RED test lead to the single pin.) On AC output alternators there is no positive or negative because both wires alternate from positive to negative, so either pin will do.
  4. On two wire lead models, attach Black test lead to the other pin. On single wire stator connectors attach the Black test lead to the engine or other ground.
  5. Prepare the lawn tractor for engine start (set parking brake). Start engine and run at full throttle.
  6. Check output. Output for engines of this general size run in the 30 to 50 volt range. For instance the B&S V twin 22 hp AC output at full throttle is 30 Volts minimum. Other B&S on these machines spec 40 Volt minimum.
If your voltages are not in the manufacturers range (too low), or non-existent, your stator is partly shorted or completely burnt out (open circuit). Either way you have to replace it.
A. In the picture is a single lead stator connector.
B .In the picture is a two wire lead stator connector.
25588487-nduycjuiiqtqizufokyqk0fw-3-0.jpg

Mar 18, 2015 | Cub Cadet Garden

1 Answer

2003 Honda Silver Wing has no electrical power


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. Faulty ignition relay.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Honda fjs 600 silver wing Service manual Download service repair owner...
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda FJS600 Silver Wing Owner Manual

Jun 14, 2014 | 2003 Honda Silverwing 600

1 Answer

1995 Honda GL 1500 SE Gold Wing alternator test


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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How to Check Your Motorcycle Charging System
Honda GL1500 Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda Goldwing GL1500 SE Owner Manual

Oct 21, 2012 | 1995 Honda GL 1500 SE Gold Wing

1 Answer

1986 Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing not charging


Hi, Arthur before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
86 GL1200 Asp SEi not charging GL1200 Information Questions goldwingdocs...
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Honda GL1200D Shop Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda GL1200 1986 Owner Manual

Jun 04, 2012 | 1986 Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing

1 Answer

1984 Honda Goldwing Gl 1200 not charging


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
84 GL1200 won charge battery
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Honda GL1200D Shop Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda GL1200 1986 Owner Manual

Feb 05, 2012 | 1984 Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing

1 Answer

My battery will not charge on my honda GL 1200


If the battery is not charging could be stator or a cell broken down in the battery. Take out battery and try to charge it out of the bike on a trickle charger. If it wont charge in the bike there is a problem with the charging system and may be the stator or regulator.

Aug 16, 2010 | 1985 Honda GL 1200 Interstate Gold Wing

2 Answers

Battery not charging


run an ohm test on the stator wires, make sure you get readings through all combinations of any 2 wires. if you don't get an ohms reading between 2 wires that means you have a broken stator winding and the stator needs to be replaced. hook up a volt meter to your battery and test battery voltage at rest (bike off), at idle (bike on and idling should be at least 12.5 - 13 volts), and steady around 3 - 4000 rpms (should be around 13-14.5 volts. if it exceeds 15 volts your regulator is bad and needs to be replaced. if all numbers are about what I said, have your battery tested. If your battery is over 1.5 years old it should be replaced anyway.

Jun 03, 2010 | 1986 Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing

1 Answer

1986 Gold Wing Interstate no spark. Had it runing once than no spark.


I wish I knew what kind of condition the bike was in. If you have no spark I would start with the coils for a loose or corroded connection both negative and possitive. Make sure the battery is good. You may have charged the battery and have 12 volts but if there is a bad cell in the battery and not enough amps your starter may turn but you will not get enough amps for the coils to fire the plugs. When my Intruder battery get a little low my plugs do not fire hot enough and fowls out. The battery is new so when I recharge or keep my trickel charge on I have no problems.

Nov 13, 2009 | 1985 Honda GL 1200 Interstate Gold Wing

2 Answers

The charging system is not working properly. With


Chk the charging voltage at the battery posts. Should be between 13.6 to 14.2 The lower the voltage the hugher the amps. if at 13,6 it is charging heavy. It may not be your charging system. If it shows 12 volts it is charging max output, and at 15 it isn't doing anything.. I would put my money on the battery being no good..

Sep 15, 2009 | 2007 Suzuki Boulevard

1 Answer

Charging problem on 2002 929 rr1 blade


I'm thinking your battery is the wrong ah. 8.6 for that type motorcycle is quite low. I would expect around 12 - 14 ah. Actually you should not be draining the battery though. The problem may be in the alternator assy its self. Have you checked all three legs of the charging system coming from the stator? I have found the stator to be the culprit many times in this situation. The bike should not be draining the battery at all if the alternator is charging correctly. What was the oem battery ah that you replaced?

Nov 30, 2008 | 2000 Honda CBR 929 RR Fireblade

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