I have an 86 suzuki lt250 f. I put a rebuild kit in both front wheel cylinders, a rebuild kit in the master cylinder, new shoes and rubber lines but can not get pressure at the brake lever. I can get a good flow of fluid at both bleeder valves with no bubbles. Before replacing rubber hoses, blew air into metal lines to dry and clear the lines. I had no lever pressure before the rebuild and still have none $100 later, please help.
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Re: Suzuki atv brake rebuild no pressure
Cylinders, lines and calipers must be bled thoroughly and in order.
Start with the master cylinder.
Break the line loose at the cylinder and tighten it firmly so you can loosen it easily.
pump the lever/pedal several times,(don't worry about pressure yet). Hold the lever/pedal down.
break the line loose slightly, just enough to release the pressure. Re-tighten the line and release the lever.
Repeat this procedure several times. (4-6)
Repeat this procedure at the line just above the caliper.
Finally repeat this procedure at the bleed screw.
This takes a while but will insure that all the air is out of the lines. It dosen't take much air to ruin a great brake job.
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Then you have a master cylinder that is bad it will not hold the pressure. Change it out. Check when you pull the brake handle and look to see if there bubbles come up most likely it the master cyclinder.
Hi, my thoughts are directed more towards the calipers, pads, or even a worn or warped disc, if you still have the rubber brake lines fitted, when you have a reduced brake effort, clamp your brake line as close to the master cylinder as poss with a pipe clamp or a pair of smooth jaw. Grips. If your mastercylinder is faulty the feel in the lever will remain the same with or without the clamped lines, if the feel of the lever is verry firm with no travel the mastercylinder is holding pressure, you can then try moving the clamp further down the line, rechecking the feel at the lever at different points
You need to take your front brake master cylinder apart. When
you rebuild your master cylinder look down into the reservoir at the
large brake fluid feeder hole. Right next to it is a tiny pin hole.
That is the brake fluid return hole for the reservoir. It is probably
plugged with rust or dirt. When it is plugged , you drive a short
distance and the wheel locks up. Open the bleeder screw to release a
squirt of fluid and you can drive back home before it locks up again.
Clean out the hole with a single straight bristle from a wire brush and
see if that fixes the problem.
You need to use a large "C Clamp" to compress the caliper piston back into the cylinder. This is the normal way since there is no "return" mechanism other than "lack of hydraulic pressure".
The brake fluid will back up into the master cylinder reservoir, so remove some of the fluid.
Just two bolts hold the floating caliper in place.
You may have a blocked clutch hose or a restricted outlet/leaking piston valve in the master cylinder. Remove the hose entirely and blow through it with compressed air. Good air flow means good hose. Now try the master cylinder (clutch lever), you should get a good flow of fluid with one press. If it barely releases anything, tear the cylinder down and check the outlet area and piston valving. It may need a rebuild kit or just replace the cylinder. Once you get the cylinder working, put the hose back and new fluid in the cylinder. work the lever a number of times, then bleed the system.