My check engine light turned on 2 days ago. I just got an oil change today. When they finished and I turned on the car it was there for less than 5 minutes then turned off. I drove for an hour and parked it for around 2 hours then when I drove for 20 minutes it turned back on. What else could be the problem?
You will need to get the trouble code out of the computer first and go from there.The trouble code will let you know what area to look for the problem.
SOURCE: Ignition problem/electrical
You need to replace the the actuator parts that go from the ignition lock cylinder to the switch they are inside the steering column, this is a very hard job and not for the do it yourself mechanic, there is the issue of the air bag be dis-armed for one, if you don't dis-arm it correctly and it goes off you will have a real bad day, and perhaps your last.
SOURCE: Engine light
did you make sure that the gas cap was on tight and proper... i have had that happen before...
SOURCE: Check Engine Lite
when was the last time the oil was changed on either one off these vechs. on the one hand the cam sensor is located in the timing cover with a spring, this will not cause a no start our dying problem but will set a cel light. if the egr passages is pluged up it will cause a egr problem hard start no start rough ilde. o2 sensor can cause a rough ilde but will also set a code . what is the mech condation off these vechs. run a commpession test and a vauccmn test. if these two items show bad readings our result. these two test should be done frist
SOURCE: Car won't run.Turns over & sputters, but won't stay running.
How hot did it get before you chg. thermostat? Could have jumped time, timming chain maybe, cracked head, or head gasget. whatever it is don't sound good. Oil smoke, flame throer, that meny mi. motor junk........ Not what you want to hear i know.
SOURCE: turn the key and nothing happens,no crank,no sound,no start
It seems that you have a loose wire, bad connector or perhaps the main computer itself that is causing a problem If the shop is not seeing any codes, or codes come and go, likely I'm right...but someone is going to have to actually do some intensive testing to find the real cause. You can likely get another computer from a local scrapyard far cheaper than what the dealer will charge you...as far as wiring, you need a good accurate schematic a good volt/ohmeter and lots of time to trace wiring. When checking connectors test the pin, then probe the wire going into the pin...often the problem is where a wire meets the backside of the pin, either corroding or breaking..This also applies to any modules such as the security system...what you see on the dash does not always tell you that connection to components is good. This is not a "fix, but rather, a direction to go in. (exactly what I"d need to do if I was there)
Right now, everything is suspect including fuel system, till you rule it out!!!
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