Overheating bike overheating, motor out of step. Good idle speeds but when the bike is trashed!

Suzuki LS 650 Savage 1988 Service Manual Free Download

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This Suzuki LS 650 Savage 1986-2009 Service Manual Free Download is a complete factory service and repair manual for your Suzuki LS 650 Savage.

Here are some tests you can try. The list is generic and you may have tried some of these already. It sounds like a vacuum line issue to me. For other info try this website:

Repair Guides Symptom Diagnosis no Codes What To Do When There Are No...

Preliminary Checks
Prior to starting this symptom test routine, inspect these underhood items:

1. All related vacuum lines for proper routing and integrity.
2. All related electrical connectors and wiring harnesses for faults (Wiggle Test).
3. Check the throttle linkage for a sticking or binding condition.
4. Air Intake system for restrictions (air inlet tubes, dirty air filter, etc.).
5. Search for any technical service bulletins related to this symptom.
6. Turn the key to off. Unplug the MAP sensor connection and restart the engine to recheck for the idle concern. If the condition is gone, replace the MAP sensor.

Test 2: Rough, Low or High Idle Speed Condition (Continued)
Test 2 Chart
Step Action Yes No 1 Step Description: Verify the rough idle or stall Does the engine have a warm engine rough idle, low idle or high idle condition in P or N- Go to Step 2. Fault is intermittent. Return to the Symptom List and select another fault. 2 Step Description: Verify idle speed & timing Verify the base timing is within specifications Verify that the base idle speed is set properly Are the timing and idle speed set properly- Go to Step 3. Set the base idle speed and timing to the specifications and then retest for the symptom. 3 Step Description: Check AIS / IAC Operation Check the AIS or IAC motor operation Inspect the AIS/IAC housing in throttle body for restricted passages. Clean as needed. Set the parking brake, block the drive wheels and turn the A/C off. Install the Scan Tool. IAC Motor Tester - Turn the key off and then connect the IAC tester to the IAC valve. Start the engine and use the IAC tester to extend and retract the IAC valve. ATM Test - Start the engine. Use the tool to change the speed from min-idle to 1500 rpm. Did the idle speed change as commanded- Install an Aftermarket Noid light and check the operation of the PCM and AIS or IAC motor circuits. Check the motor for signs of open or shorted circuits. Replace the IAC motor or PCM as needed or make repairs to the IAC motor wiring. If all are okay, go to Step 4. If the AIS/IAC motor passages are clean and engine speed did not change as described when the AIS/IAC motor was extended and retracted, replace the AIS/IAC motor. Then retest for the condition. 4 Step Description: Check/compare PID values Connect Scan Tool & turn off all accessories. Start the engine and allow it to fully warmup. Monitor all related PIDs on the Scan Tool. Verify the P/N switch input in gear and Park. Check the O2S operation with a Lab Scope. Are all PIDs within normal range- Go to Step 5. Note: An IAC motor count of over 80 indicates the pintle is extended and an IAC count of (0) indicates the pintle is retracted. One or more of the PIDs are out of range when compared to "known good" values. Make repairs to the system that is out of range, then retest for the symptom. 5 Step Description: Check the Ignition System Inspect the coils for signs of spark leakage at coil towers or primary connections. Check the spark output with a spark tester. Test Ignition system with an engine analyzer. Were any faults found in the Ignition system- Make repairs as needed Go to Step 6. 6 Step Description: Check the Fuel System Inspect the Fuel delivery system for leaks. Test the fuel pressure, quality and volume. Test the operation of the pressure regulator. Were any faults found in the Fuel system- Make repairs as needed Go to Step 7. 7 Step Description: Check the Exhaust System Check Exhaust system for leaks or damage. Check the Exhaust system for a restriction using the Vacuum or Pressure Gauge Test (e.g., exhaust backpressure reading should not exceed 1.5 psi at cruise speeds). Were any faults found in Exhaust System- Make repairs to the Exhaust system. Then retest the symptom. Go to Step 8. Repair Guides Symptom Diagnosis no Codes What To Do When There Are No...

This sounds like the typical lean mixture problem. In order to pass the EPA's emission requirements, Harley has to jet the carb extremely lean. This causes the engine "spit" through the carb, not idle well, and run hot. To solve this problem, you need to rejet the carb by going one or two steps richer on the low speed jet and raise the slide needle slightly. If this is something that has just started recently, it could be a small bit of trash partially blocking the low speed jet in the carb or your using a different formulation of fuel. You carb probably came with a #45 slow jet. I usually install either a #48 or in some cases,a #50 depending on the exhaust system on the bike. I remove the needle from the slide and install a 3mm flat washer under the stop on the needle to RAISE the needle approximately 0.023". This enrichens the mid-range of the carb just slightly. Of course, you need to carefully drill and remove the "anti-tamper" plug from the idle mixture adjustment screw and readjust the idle mixture once you get the engine back running.

Good Luck
Steve

When does it overheat? At idle, or at highway speed? Is the coolant level where it should be? Overheating at idle or highway speed may be a faulty thermostat. If it overheats only at idle then it is likely a cooling fan fault. To determine if the fan is working start the engine and switch the A/C on, the fan should come on, if it does not, then you need to have the computer "scanned" to see if it can detect the reason for the fan not coming on. If the fan is switching on, then you need to have the water pump checked to see if in fact it is pumping coolant (this could also be the cause of overheating at highway speed) If you are overheating only at highway speed you may want to have the enigine checked for a blown head-gasket, or faulty radiator.

If your bike is carb equipped, remove the air filter cover and look at the top right of your carb. You'll see the idle speed stop screw there. Turn the screw slighly clockwise to increase the idle speed of the engine. If you bike is equipped with fuel injection, you'll have to take your bike to a dealer or independent shop that has the ability to make changes to the ECM.

Good Luck
STeve

It sounds like you engine may be idled just a bit low.

If your bike is carb equipped, the idle speed stop screw is located at the top right side of the carb. Turn it inwards, clockwise, to raise the idle speed slightly. You may have to remove the air cleaner cover to get to the screw.

If your bike is fuel injected, you'll need to take it to a shop to have the idle speed set.

Idle speed should be about 1000 RPM when at full temp.

Good luck
Steve

Bigger jetting (a higher fuel/air ratio) will not cause overheating. But an air leak between the engine and carburetor can cause overheating - and an erratic idle. Make sure the carb is correctly connected and there are no air leaks. An air leak could also be the cause of the popping that you were attempting to address by re-jetting.
Once any air leaks are corrected, adjust the idle mixture screw to attain the highest idle speed when the engine is at normal operating temperature. Then, use the idle speed screw to set the correct idle speed.
Finally, ride the bike at full throttle for a short time, pull the clutch and coast to a stop. Remove the spark plug and check the color; a tan or light brown color indicates correct jetting. Too light = too lean. Too dark = too rich.

the ignition coil is going bad probably overheating