Question about Yamaha TT-R 225 Motorcycles

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Sputtering at low rpm ttr230

The bike sputters at low rpm, if you get it more throttle it runs great, but just slowly moving in the woods it sputters. I changed the plug and cleaned the filter but nothing seems to change.

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  • Contributor
  • 4 Answers

Run some carb cleaner through the tank. "Seafoam" has a real following. It could be that the jets are crudded up, especially if your bike sat some over the winter.

Posted on Mar 31, 2014

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 night train fxstbi starts fine but sputters at low speeds.

It sounds like it's running a tad lean on the low speed circuit. Since it's fuel injected, you'll have to take it to a dealer or maybe an aftermarket shop to have them check the computer's fuel map setting.

Posted on Feb 21, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: ninja 250r 08fi 9000rpm sputtering problem

so i drove my bike sputtering to school and notice that there werent problems with the fuel system cause i heard the engine drowning in the fuel cause the ignition system couldnt explode it by a to weak spark from the spark plugs, so i only had to change the spark plugs and everything was good as normal

sorry if my story writings look a bit weird, cause i dont speak or write english where i live

Posted on Mar 09, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: change fuel filter on 2002 suzuki intruder volucia 800 vl

i have a 2002 volusia intruder 800cc and the bike was runnning fine. i change the oil/oil filter/removed the radiator hose and drain the radiator/ replace spark plugs and when it was time to start the bike it started and then stalled out/ can't keep the bike running. check the fuel filter and it appears to be o.k. don't know whether or not i should change the fuel pump???

Posted on Apr 06, 2010

sisadsl
  • 1508 Answers

SOURCE: My 1999 900ss sputters and

If it gets worse as it warms ,it could be slightly rich in the jetting. Up to 4000rpm it may help to lower the main jet needles by a notch

Posted on Aug 13, 2010

  • 198 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kawasaki Ninja,

There are adjustments on carbs for low speed air intake (air mixture screw)find out factory settings and reset that mixture.Sounds to me like those adjustments are out of sink.If so the bike will run very bad from idle to about 1/4 throttle then run great from there up to full throttle.this definitly sounds like carb problem.

Posted on Mar 14, 2011

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2003 Kawasaki KX 125 Sputters at high RPM


Hi, Nick if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
High RPM sputtering bogging problem
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Kawasaki KX125 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
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Jun 24, 2017 | 2003 kawasaki KX 125

1 Answer

Hesitation at low rpm


Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

Vanguard V Twin 18 hp. monted in Cushman Motor scooter, runs great at W.O.T and at on quarter throttle, misses at range inbetween


Sounds like your carb needs the fuel/air mix adjusted..uses all the gas at high speed but has excess at low speeds...find your adjusting screw and at med throttle slowly screw it clockwise until the engine starts to sputter then back it out until it starts to sputter again then continue to do this until you reach ideal mix where it runs the best it can..then go slowly through the throttle up and down..when set..unjust your idle speed screw to your ideal idle speed..if this dies not fix ..carb will bed cleaned or rebuilt. Good luck.. Note always push or pull your throttle handle slowly to position avoids gas load up causing sputter and backfire.

Mar 15, 2012 | Briggs & Stratton Briggs Stratton Vanguard...

1 Answer

I have a Kawasaki Ninja, ZX6r, 1997 F3. The bike starts great and rev's great when standing. At high rev's its as sweet as a nut. The problem seems to be when riding the bike and the revs are below 4,000....


There are adjustments on carbs for low speed air intake (air mixture screw)find out factory settings and reset that mixture.Sounds to me like those adjustments are out of sink.If so the bike will run very bad from idle to about 1/4 throttle then run great from there up to full throttle.this definitly sounds like carb problem.

Mar 13, 2011 | 1997 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja

1 Answer

When i take off from a stop light my bike spits and sputter from 1000 rpm to 3500rpm when it reaches 4000 rpm it starts to clear up.


Hi, Rumblinstump and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables misaligned or misrouted.
2. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
3. Intake system air leak.
4. Vacuum piston malfunction.
5. Pinholes or torn diaphragm.
6. Accelerator pump leaking or no output.
7. Plugged bowl vent or overflow.
8. Fuel level in bowl too low.
9. Restricted fuel supply passages.
10. Plugged jets or passages.
11. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
12. The enrichner valve not seated or leaking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Low RPM Sputtering
bike sputtering on take off
1999 2002 Yamaha YZF R6 Service Manual R6 Moto Data Project
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http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Mar 08, 2011 | 2001 Yamaha YZF-R6

1 Answer

Ninja 250r 08fi 9000rpm sputtering problem when i drive my ninja and the enginge is cold then there are no problems with getting to the rev limmiter but once my bike gets warm then it starts sputtering at...


so i drove my bike sputtering to school and notice that there werent problems with the fuel system cause i heard the engine drowning in the fuel cause the ignition system couldnt explode it by a to weak spark from the spark plugs, so i only had to change the spark plugs and everything was good as normal

sorry if my story writings look a bit weird, cause i dont speak or write english where i live

Mar 06, 2010 | 2008 kawasaki Ninja 250R

3 Answers

Motor chokes and misses under moderate load and loses power


Sounds to me as tho it might need a carburetor adjustment, providing there is an adjustment screw on the carb. Sounds like the engine is running a bit lean. Did this problem occur right after the carb cleaning, or was it there in advance? Is there a fuel filter that might be clogged?

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Suzuki gsxr Carbs Loading up?


check your spark plug if it burns ok. if it burns white its ok, also clean your carburator and the air cleaner after that start the engine again. if it does not change the problem is youre cdi unit.

Apr 15, 2009 | 1994 Suzuki GSX-R 750 WR

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