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My 1981 cx500 died while I was riding it and I read some forms and I tested my stator and everything is reading correct accept my low rpms I am curious if this would be the reason it won't start now and it backfired before

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  • 4 Answers

Your stator test is only valid if the battery is dead and the bike cuts out, not viable for a starting problem. The backfire is a normal thing on these bikes (assuming you are talking about letting off the gas when doing 4k+ rpms). If the bike doesn't start, test the fuel and spark.

Posted on Mar 30, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: overcharging battery!?

If it goes over 17 then there is definitely a regulator fault, regardless of what the stator is doing. The very purpose of the regulator (it 'regulates' the voltage within limits) is to NOT allow the output dc voltage to climb when the stator output rises (normal) with increased engine rpm. In other words - by nature of way it works normally, the stator AC output Voltage will rise as the engine rpm increases - it will continue to rise all the way to peak engine rpm. The Rectifier/ regulator with its double-barrel name performs two functions: the first - rectifier - converts the AC output of the Stator to DC volts - if 'UN-regulated' the DC volts would also climb proportionally to engine rpm. But that is where the second function of the Rectifier/Regulator - the Regulator - comes in. The Regulator's job is to stop the voltage rising over a certain threshold even if the stator is trying to drive it higher. It does this by 'shunting' current to ground (short circuit effectively) in a series of pulses; this controlled operation is called regulation. The limit is going to be 15V absolute max and more typically 14.5 or so. If the output rises about this value then it absolutely is NOT regulating. Failures of the regulator where they simply don't regulate and allow full voltage to pass are rare (but not impossible) - much more likely to be short or open circuit, neither or which would give the symptom you have. It still sounds almost like you maybe wired it incorrectly? The stator is inside the left crancase cover - whether or not it has its own problems, have nothing to do with the lack of regulation causing battery volts to go to 17V.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

jmeyer847
  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Yamaha R1 not charging

Stupid Question but are all your wires clean and tight connections? Also make sure your batt ground is good too. R1's can be picky like that.

Sincerely,

JC

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: while riding my yz 125 it just died and won,t kick up again

  • If a hole in the piston then install new piston and rings. Next, clean the carbon off the head and install a new head gasket.
  • If cylinder wall is scared the piston has seized up. Pull the cylinder off and take it to the dealer. Have them bore the cylinder and return it along with a new oversize piston and rings.
  • While at the parts counter, get a new stock spark plug and a supply of Yamalube Two Stroke Motor Oil. You need to add 4 ounces per gallon when filling up. This will be a 32/1 gas to oil ratio. NEVER ride the bike without at least the needed 32/1 mix.
Please rate the solution as a "FixYa" if able. Thanks!

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: wire connector between stator & voltage reg/rectifier burnt

your voltage/reg. can be tested in a couple different ways check ground res. check res. then revs. bias on diodes you have ac in dc out it sounds like you may have a diode gone bad allowing ac curent to flow causing the wires to get hot

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: where is the stator located on a 2001 26

Assuming you can get it started after charging the battery, put a volt Ohmmeter on the battery with the engine running around 3000 rpm. The reading should be around 14 volts. If it is, then the stator is fine. It is on the left side of the bike under the cover.
64d7948.gif There may be a loose / dirty connection somewhere on the bike. Remove the seat and gas tank to gain access to the wiring harness. Get a volt Ohmmeter as you may need to check continuity at some point. Start at the battery, then fuses and the wires connecting to the fuses. Inspect for burned wires, abraded wires, loose and/or dirty connections, bad connectors and loose wires. This means the mass of wires inside the headlight must also be inspected. Check the handlebar kill switch and the side stand kill switch as well. Go all the way to the ignition system. Check the key switch. Put it on "run" and check for power through the switch as you jiggle the wires. Find the bad connection and you should be able to fix it.

Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?

Posted on Sep 02, 2009

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Battery not charging on 2003 super glide


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

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Why does my yz250 2stoke start then stop


First place I would look after all the obvious such as spark plug good fuel good reasonable compression if the bike starts fine and runs for few minutes then dies the number one issue I have seen to do this would be the stator they have high speed and low speed circuits in them and if the high speed circuit is failling the second it warms up a little you will lose spark at the plug there is very simple test to check the stator but is difficult to explain here you need in short the OHMS reading form the stator

Nov 13, 2011 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

1 Answer

I was drving 2001 honda cbr929rr and idle sounded funny. when i went to start it after work..the battery was dead. i tried to push start it and made it almost all the way home. charged battery and it...


Hi, Djetude before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/83463-929-charging-problems.html
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2000 2001 Honda CBR929RR Fireblade Service Manual Moto Data Project
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1 Answer

My battery in 1981 suzuki gs 850 g keeps dying on me, I charge it up everytime I come back from a ride,the battery is only a few weeks old,could it be my voltage regulator,or a wire that has some of the...


Start the bike and put a voltmeter across the battery; you should get a reading of probably around 13.5V. If you're getting only about 12V or less, the battery isn't charging. From there you will need to go to the alternator terminal on the regulator and see if you're getting more than 12V. If you are, the regulator is probably bad, if not it could be a bad rectifier if there is a seperate rectifier or a bad stator. Good luck and safe riding.

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1 Answer

I have a 2001 flhtcui what are the ac reading coming from stator at 2.5k rpm 3k rpm and 3600 rpm. At 2000 rpm I get about 12 volts dash guage reading but at 3000 I get 13.5 to 14 at lower rpm 2000 or so I...


The AC output of the stator should be 32-40 volts at 2000 RPM (16-20 per 1000 RPM). With the battery fully charged, your regulator should supply between 13.5 and 15.0 DC volts to the battery. This should be the reading you get on your voltmeter. It will vary depending on what lights and other equipment you have turned on. Sounds like everything is working fine to me. The gauge is reading the DC voltage at the battery while the engine is running. At 2000 RPM, 12 volts is a little low but, considering the accuracy of the gauge, as long as it doesn't fall below 12 volts, it's about right. You don't ride for extended periods at engine RPMs that low. Then at 3000 RPM, 14 volts is about right. If your bike never ran anymore than 12 volts, your battery would slowly go down. If it goes any higher than 15.0 volts, it will boil the battery. Usually, about 14.3 or so with no load on the system is about right.

Good Luck
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5 Answers

I recently purchased a 1981 Honda CX500 being told it would NOT run above 50-55 MPH and that the problem was NOT the carburation. The price was fair, the seller young and I figured the problem was in the...


The Haynes manual does not give you all the ohm readings for checking the pulse pick ups that are attached to the stator. It is possible there is an issue with the electrical system that is causing problems. The most common problem is bad spark plug caps and or plugs (causes rough idle and lack of power). Should be 5000 ohms, if anything else replace.You mention having to run full choke which screams plugged slow jet or slow circuit( jet and or carb body. If these are really clear then make sure the rubber and metal of the intake manifolds have not separated or cracked. This would cause the lean condition that you describe. Hope this helps. A honda manual has all the ohm measurements for checking the cdi and the pulse pick ups on the alternator.

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1 Answer

Hi,I have a 1982 V45 sabre,the problem is the stator plug is getting really hot.checked the charging and it's between 13.2-13.9.is it normal for this plug to get hot?


Yes some heat is normal, not so hot that it melts. Your voltage from stator is AC not DC,the voltage you read was after voltage regulator.To check the stator output unhook the wires from stator,run engine at 1,500 rpms as you read Volts AC on your meter,read from one stator wire to the other (do not use black to ground) untill you have tested all the combinations,write down the different set of numbers.You should read around 45 or 50 volts AC on each set. The high temp on the wire is more likely the result of wire connections needing to be cleaned and treated with dielectric grease to keep out moisture and deture corrosion.With good clean contact the wire will have less resistance and be cooler.The hot spot is usualy the weakest. OK well hope you get it done soon,Ride safe!

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1 Answer

I have a 79 cx500 and it doesnt have a spark


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

For a CX500, initial (easy) checks would be:
  • sparkplug cap. In some versions, there is an arrester made up of fuselike carbon resistor with spring and rod. Illustrations here;
  • ensure black/white wire from engine stop switch & ignition switch going to the CDI box does not read zero to ground or simply disconnect it while testing;
  • check for pulsating low AC voltage (0.5VAC) from the pick-up coils, orange.white and blue/white wires;
  • check for pulsating high AC voltage (90+VAC) from the exciter / stator coils. Detailed test shown here;
  • in some instances, the ignition switch would be the culprit. Procedures here;
  • or even as simple as a fuseholder as discussed here.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Dec 20, 2009 | 1979 Honda CX 500 A

3 Answers

I have a 1992 softtail fxst and the battery is not being recharged after I ride it for a while it just dies, its a new battery so when I use jumper cables it will start but dies after a while...help


You need to use an ohmeter and test the stator to see if it is grounded out. Pull the plug going to the regulator and put one lead to a good ground and then poke the other lead in each of the connector holes to the stator. do this with the motor not running. If you have continutity on either wire to ground then the stator is shorted/grounded and must be replaced. If everything is ok there then the regulator is bad.

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1 Answer

While riding all lights started to flash engine run erratic bike died of death bike will not start


Start with charging and load testing the battery. Then test the stator, to test the stator on the bottom of the right down tube is the plug that goes from the stator to the voltage regulator. With a multi meter, read the voltage from the stator, I forget the exact values but as you rev the motor the voltage should climb if it dosn't your stator is bad. If the stator is good take a reading again with the motor running at the battery cables, again I forget the exact value but you should have a steady reading at the battery, if it isn't and fluctuates it is bad.

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