Question about Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat Boy Motorcycles
I have a 2002 Fat Boy with 18,000 miles. I am noticing some oil spray on the oil tank and after closer inspection, see that the rocker covers have a small amount of oil around where they connect. Would this be a problem with the gaskets? How many gaskets normally need to be changed? Are there also gaskets at the base of the cylinders? If so,should they be changed at the same time? What would be the normal maintenance for this type of problem?
The fasteners should be checked for correct torque/retorqued every 5k miles. At this mileage you shouldn't have leakage if this maintenance was done, so it likely was not. Start by doing the maint. here is the tech bulletin with instructions: TM1132 . There are gaskets/o-rings, also at the cylinder bases. If your performance is fine and retorquiing doesn't take care of leakage, just do the top end gasketing, not the cylinders. It is not difficult but you will need a tech manual.
Posted on Apr 05, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
To replace the upper rocker box gaskets is not too difficult. But, if you're replacing the gaskets between the head and the lower plate, this gets a bit more involved. You must remove the fuel tank as well.
To replace the top gaskets, simply remove the four bolts and lift the top and middle plate off the lower plate. The left rear bolt on the rear cylinder is the toughest bolt to get out. Sometimes there is a hole drilled in the frame to make access to this bolt easier. If not, you'll have to shorten a hex key wrench in order to get it out. With the top and middle plates our, replace the "umbrella valve" in the middle plate making sure you put it in from the correct side. Now place the outer gasket in the lower plate, the outer and middle gasket in the middle plate and set the top plate down on them. Wiggle the plates around a bit until you get them lined up properly with each other and tighten the top four bolts down a little at a time one each bolt until they're all tight. Torque to 80 inch pounds.
If you're going to remove the lower plate, first bring the piston of one cylinder up to top dead center on the compression stroke. Remove the spark plug and rotate the engine until both valves are fully closed. Remove the air filter assembly and backing plate. Remove the large bolts on the right side of the rocker arms Slide the rocker arm shaft out of the rocker arms one at the time and remove the rocker arm and it's pushrod. Notice that the rocker arm shaft have a recess ground into them. This is so the 5/16" acts as a lock to hold the shaft in place. It must be realigned on reassembly of the rocker plate. Once you get all the rocker arms and pushrods removed, you should have the pushrod tubes out as well. Remove the rest of the bolts and lift the lower rocker box plate. Clean the bottom of the rocker box plate and top of the head.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Make sure you don't get the pushrods mixed up as they are all four of different lengths and will only work properly in their correct postitions. They are color coded for their proper positions. There is no adjustment of the pushrods.
Front intake --- YELLOW
Front exhaust -- GREEN
Rear Intake --- BLUE
Rear Exhaust --- PURPLE
Lower rocker box torque values are: 5/16" bolts 15-18 foot pounds
1/4" bolts 10-13 foot pounds
Posted on Feb 14, 2010
BOth sides of crank case gets oil in em its normal for the skyjet engine
To change oil Locate the 17MM bolt under the engine near the front of engine, Unscrew and Let the oil drain for about 1 hour
Then Put bolt back and tighten properly, Then Add approx 1.6L of 4 stroke Motorbike oil
Posted on Jun 24, 2010
SOURCE: how to install rocker cover
To replace the rocker box gaskets, you'll have to remove the bolts on top of the rocker boxes to get them off. You may have to remove the fuel tank(s) and seat. You didn't tell me what year and model bike you're working on. Once you have these bolts off, you can replace the gaskets between the center and the upper parts, the inner gasket and the umbrella if your bike is equipped with them.
To replace the gaskets under the lower plate, work with one plate at the time. Remove the spark plugs and jack the rear wheel off the ground. Put the transmission in high gear and bump the engine over until the piston is at top dead center in the cylinder your working on with both vavles closed. Start by removing the three 1/4" hex head bolts and the two 1/4' socket head bolts. Then, remove the 5/16" bolts on the pushrod side of the engine. Tap the rocker shafts out and remove the rocker arms. Remove the other two 5/16" bolts. Lift the lower plate and replace the gaskets. Do not mix up the pushrods. They are usually color coded as to which position they go in.
To reinstall the lower plate, place the rocker box on top of the cylinder and start all bolts except the two 5/16" bolts on the push rod side of the engine. Put the rocker arms in place and push the shafts through them. Start the remaining two bolts. At this point, your lower rocker box plate is "floating" above the cylinder head. Tighten the four large bolts down until they are all flush with the top of the plate. Then, tighten them down 1/4 turn at the time until they are snug. Then, tighten the six smaller bolts down until they are barely snug. Torque the larger bolt to 15-18 foot pounds and the smaller bolts to 10-13 foot pounds. Wait for the tappest to bleed down to where you can turn them by hand to do the other cylinder. Do it the exact same way as you did the first one.
To install the middle and upper plates, put the center gasket and all other gaskets in place and align the plate. Install the socket head bolts in the top and torque to 100 Inch pounds.
Put the transmission in neutral and lower the bike. Reinstall the spark plugs, the tank(s) and the seat.
Posted on Sep 05, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 1996 fxdl
If you'll remove your inspection cover and the derby cover as well, look on the backside, you'll probably see that the bolt holes have been "pulled" through on each bolt hole. The raised backside of the bolt holes holds your covers up just slightly allowing oil to creep underneath the gasket.
Now, you can do three things. Replace the covers with new ones or use a large smooth file, lay it flat on the backside of the covers and file the "pulled" through areas down level with the rest of the cover, or apply a generous amount of RTV to both sides of the gasket. On the Derby cover, Harley now offers a solid disc type gasket for this application. I use both the solid disc and the original O-ring on the derby cover.
Posted on Oct 08, 2010
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