Question about 2002 kawasaki KLX 300 R
When i start my bike it is smoking @
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous your instrument gauges and lights can alert you to most electrical and engine issues they can not warn you about failed engine gaskets or seals so your engine has to resort to old fashion alert methods of colored "SMOKE SIGNALS" here is a breakdown of their meaning:
1. COLORLESS OR SLIGHTLY BLUE SMOKE on start-up means your air/fuel mixture is the right composition and everything is well burnt in your combustion chamber.
2. BLUE SMOKE on startup is usually caused by failed valve seals dripping oil into the combustion chamber when the engine is not running.
3. YELLOW OR BROWNISH SMOKE at start-up means your air/fuel mixture is too lean. Too lean means that there is low fuel but high air mixture in your combustion chamber.
4. WHITE SMOKE on startup may be caused by a blown head gasket allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber and may start dripping out of the exhaust pipes or mufflers. Smoke while riding is usually caused by worn out or damaged valves, seals, guides, pistons, rings, or cylinder walls.
5. BLACK SMOKE on startup is usually caused by too much fuel in the combustion chamber this can be due to air/fuel mixture adjustment too rich, accelerator pump improperly adjusted, faulty choke or not in the off position, air filter dirty and clogged, faulty carburetor float needle and seat, pilot jet too large, fuel injectors leaking, smoke while riding is usually caused by the main jet being too large or a damaged carburetor.
It should be noted that aggressive or abnormal throttle operation will cause these conditions to manifest themselves exponentially.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
KLX300 thread Page 27 Adventure Rider
DOWNLOAD KLX300R KLX300 KLX 300 97 07 Service Repair Manual Download... $15
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2002 Kawasaki KLX300R Owner Manual
Posted on Apr 30, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2002 kawasaki klx 300 r
If you are not a mechanic, take it to a shop before you completly destroy your cylinder or case. You most likely have a broken ring, bad valve or loose ring clip, but either way, the reason it is worse at the lower end is because that is where you are putting the most stress on the engine. OR...you could try using higher octane fuel, OR...your running the engine to lean. In any case, you should seek professional help with the issue, because running it with it knocking WILL end in an expensive repair.
Posted on May 26, 2009
The owners manual says to do the following if you don't want to remove the forks:
*raise the front wheel
*remove the fender, meter cable & unit, headlight, handle bar, fork protectors
*loosen the fork upper clamp bolts
*remove the caps from the top of the fork tube
*fully compress the fork tube so the dust cover touches the bottom and place a stand to hold it
*remove the springs
*set the oil level 68mm (standard) or 60 - 90 mm (adjustable) from the top of the tube
It may be easier to remove the tubes and you could replace the leaky seal at the same time. I did this recently and put in new springs too. It was my first time working on forks. With help from TT members and the service manual it was fairly easy. I didn't buy an oil gauge, seal driver, or spring holder. I used a ruler to measure the oil and a medicine dropper to remove any excess. For a seal driver I used a piece of PVC pipe cut in half then secured around the lower tube to drive the seal. Try a search on replacing fork seals for more info. 5w oil is standard but i have heard that 7 works well Good luck.
Posted on Dec 20, 2009
If the level of engine oil keeps going down (even in very small amount), then it shows a problem with piston rings. Hope it helps and let me know if you need more advice. Please don't forget to rate the answer it helps me, thanks!
Posted on Apr 20, 2010
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