Question about 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

Harley fuel valve low to no flow

I have a 1980 sportster just put in new aftermarket chrome peacock valve but fuel flow is very low to no flow with half tank of fuel any help would be appreciated

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 4,536 Answers

Aftermarkets dont always work that well-or go back and chec installation-may want to tell the seller about it--get a clymer manual for engine rebuild and maintenance--library sec629 has cycle books too

Posted on Mar 28, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: How to replace stock rocker boxes with new chrome

if you prefer you get a Clymer's Repair manual that will give you exact torque specs

Posted on May 03, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Can't get 1980 Harley Sportster to idle. New

My guess woud be that you either have not got the timing set correctly or something to do with the intake/ carb.

Since you say you replaced the advance weights, this tells me that you removed the breaker plate. I hope that you replaced the entire mechanical advance unit unstead of just the weights. The problem is that the pivot pin wears and replacing the weights does not replace these pins. I always use the needle bearing equipped units.

Now, to check the timing, connect a timing light to the front cylinder and start the engine. Remove the timing plug from the left side of the engine and shine the light in the hole. Bring the engine up to about 2500 RPM. You should see a "dot" in the middle of the hole. If not, you'll have to move the breaker plate to change the timing.

Intake and carb. I've seen brand new intake clamps with new "rubber bands" leak. I always pressure test them. To do this, you must make a plate that replaces the carb and bolts on to the intake. In the middle of this plate, there should be a hose nipple. Rotate the engine until both intake valves are closed and apply about 5 PSI pressure to the intake. Spray soapy water on the intake and clamps to find the leaks. Once the leaks have been stopped, work on the carb.

If you're using the original Keihen carb, you'll probably find that the slow speed jet or the idle port is plugged up. I'd disassemble the carb and soak it in carb cleaner. Make sure all the air and fuel passageways are clear. If the idle mixture adjusting screw is frozen up, trash the carb and get another one.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Jul 08, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: free reapair manuals for 1980 harley sportster

I don't know of too many free Harley manuals available. They are pretty protective of their copyrighted materials. They "patrol" the Internet pretty well and if they find something like that online, they'll make them take it down.

Maybe we can help if you'll tell us what you need.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Aug 12, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: i need step by step

Ok, you should have two cables on your Sportster. One is the throttle cable that pulls the carb open and the other is the idle cable that acts as "safety cable" to pull the carb closed should the throttle return spring on the carb break.

To replace either or both of the cables, it will be easier to remove the fuel tank before doing so. Make sure you look at how the cable are routed from your handlebar grip to the carb. Drain the fuel and take the tank off your bike.

Now, first loosen the cable adjusters so that you have all the slack you can get in the cables. Take the two bolts out that hold the right hand switch housing halves together. Carefully lift the top half off exposing the nylon throttle sleeve. The cables are connect so that the throttle cable is to the front and the idle cable is to the rear. Work one cable at a time out of the sleeve. Be careful and do not loose the "barrel" that goes on each cable. With the cables out of the throttle sleeve, you can pull them down through the throttle housing. Then, disconnect the cables at the carb.

To reinstall the cables, do everything in reverse. Make sure you pull the throttle grip off the handlebars and apply a bit of white lithium grease to the handlebar, inside the throttle grip, and on the nylon throttle sleeve where the cables connect. Get everything assembled but just before you tighten the bolts that hold the switch housings together, slide the throttle assembly towards the center of the handlebars until it stops, then back if off about a 1/4 or 3/8 inch. Do not adjust the throttle or idle cables too tightly, you need just a bit of slack in each one or the throttle will hang. When you think you're finished, with the engine off, turn the throttle to the wide open position and release it. It should snap back to the fully closed position. If not, work with it until you get it where it does. Reinstall the fuel tank.

Caution, failure to insure proper throttle operation could cause serious injury or death. Do the job right or take it to someone that can. Your health or your life ain't worth risking for the few bucks you save.

Ride Safe
Steve

Posted on Aug 20, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I just picked up a

If your petcock is a standard replacement part, you must connect the vacuum line to the backside of the petcock. There should have been a vacuum line on your old petcock unless a previous owner has changed the petcock to a manually operated one. The vacuum line comes off the backside of the carburetor and supplies vacuum to the VOES switch and the petcock.

Still even with the vacuum line connected, you won't get fuel until you turn the engine with the starter. The engine must turn to generate the vacuum to open the petcock. If you have a hand operated vacuum pump, you can use this to check the fuel flow from your petcock.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Feb 04, 2011

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