Question about 1999 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja

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Sump/bolt stripped After an oil change i was tightening the bolt, instead of tightening it went tight loose tight loose. I have been led to believe that the sump may have been stripped. Is there anywhere that can do this type of thing/ tap it out to a bigger size and use a bigger sump plug?

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Hi, most bike shops or engineering shops can do this easily enough for you, its not real big job

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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I have a 2001 chevy astro van, all wheel drive. How do you change oil pan no one has a book for it


looks like a tough job ahead

taking the sump off ?...motor in the engine bay

could try undoing plenty and lift the body up

if you cant get clearance under neath with motor in the engine bay
motor will have to come out


if trying with motor in the engine bay
lots of drive train in the way ..
undo engine mounts
support the motor .... even lift motor a bit
for clearance from steering gear and chassis ,suspension etc
to get the sump off



cant tell if it covers AWD
2001 Chevrolet Astro Manuals



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Nov 09, 2016 | 2001 Chevrolet Astro

2 Answers

How do I change the oil pan gasket?


Whether it's an engine oil pan (called the 'sump'' in the UK) or a transmission oil pan the principle is the same on all vehicles.
1. Drain the oil

2. Remove the bolts holding the sump/pan in place:
change-oil-pan-gasket-mcgwfbeeztshkxy1nyom2hsg-4-0.jpg
change-oil-pan-gasket-mcgwfbeeztshkxy1nyom2hsg-4-1.jpg The oil drain plug, though depending on your vehicle it may look different:
change-oil-pan-gasket-mcgwfbeeztshkxy1nyom2hsg-4-3.jpg change-oil-pan-gasket-mcgwfbeeztshkxy1nyom2hsg-4-6.jpgNew gasket held in place with sealant
Use a blunt screwdriver -if needed - and prise the oil pan free. remove all traces of the old gasket from the mating surfaces.

Use a smear of sealant to hold the new gasket in the correct position on the pan - this will hold it in place when you refit the pan.

Push the pan into position and put in a front bolt finger-tight. Then put in a rear bolt finger-tight.

Putting in the bolts finger-tight allows you to gently 'move' the pan if needed to put the bolts in one at a time.

When all bolts are in, tighten them with a wrench/socket. Then check them all again for tightness.

It isn't actually a big job .. more 'messy' because of the oil.

Nov 04, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

My 1985 nissan maxima keeps low oil pressure,I constantly have to fill it with up to qts. of oil,any solutions


Place a clean flattened cardboard under your car and see if it's leaking out. If it's not dripping oil, check your radiator for the presence of oil using a dye test kit available at NAPA. If there is a leak coming from under your car, try to determine from where it's dripping. Most common is an oil filter that hasn't been tightened properly or leaking oil sump bolt. A 1/4 turn on the oil filter should stop the leak, if its the sump... a new screw washer for the sump bolt will usually cure that. Check around the sump mounting bolts, if a fresh leak is evident, you will need a new sump gasket, don't try to tighten the existing bolts as it make leak worse! Tighten to torque specs. Otherwise, you are burning it up... exhaust smoke should be dark instead of light gray. White smoke indicates a blown head gasket and the oil is getting into the engine.

Mar 12, 2015 | 1985 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

How to remove a sump from a Audi A4 1998 1.8 turbo


Raise the car and PUT IT ON JACKSTANDS. If it falls, it WILL KILL YOU.

Get underneath the front and locate the sump ("oil pan" to those of us on the American side of the pond). Around its rim you'll find a (rectangular) ring of bolts - quite a lot of them. You can use a socket with about a 6" (15cm) extension to reach the bolt heads.

Drain the sump before you loosen any bolts. Remove all the bolts except two at each end - only loosen the two at each end, but loosen them a long way. You want about three bolt threads still remaining in place.

Now take a large rubber mallet underneath the car and tap on both sides of the sump. Its gasket tends to be very stubborn about coming off, so you may need to tap it pretty hard. Don't bludgeon it to death - if tapping hard doesn't break the gasket loose, you may have neglected to remove a bolt someplace. Check again.

When it comes loose, it'll probably be pretty sudden. This is why you left those four bolts in the corners - to catch it and prevent it from falling in your face upside-down, then bouncing off to the side & filling with dirt. You need it to remain totally clean inside.

When it comes loose, you can finish removing the last four bolts. Unless I miss my guess, you used Castrol GTX in that engine, so the inside of the sump will be NASTY. Clean it up well with clean rags and kerosene or mineral (white) spirits. Do NOT use gasoline (petrol), because that can cause severe anemia.

When all the nasty stuff is cleaned out, remove the remaining gasket material from the sump's rim. Crawl back under the car to inspect for any remaining gasket material from the underside of the block, too. Use a gasket scraper for both surfaces - you want nothing but bright shiny metal for gasket surfaces.

Using a good automotive gasket sealer (shellac-based or silicone-based), apply the gasket to the rim of the sump. Use several bolts, inserted backwards, to temporarily hold it in place while you press the gasket into intimate contact with the sump's rim. Immediately remove those bolts and apply gasket sealer also to the second gasket surface. Transfer the newly gasketed sump underneath the car - do this while the gasket sealer is still uncured.

Very carefully, so as to not disturb the gasket, lift it into place and reinstall as many bolts as you can start with your fingers. Be VERY sure that every bolt goes through a hole in the gasket - do NOT allow the gasket to slip to the side, or it'll leak very badly.

Use your socket & extension to install the rest of the bolts. Snug all the bolts up only finger-tight, then begin tightening them with your socket. First tighten the two bolts opposite each other in the middle of the sump's two narrow sides - tighten them only about half-tight. From there, work your way out to the ends of the sump, then go back to the middle two again and tighten them fully. Again work your way out to the ends.

DO NOT overtighten these bolts! Be careful not to distort any metal, and remember that these bolts are threading into alumin(i)um so they can't tolerate the kind of torque that iron will accept. If you distort the metal, you may also damage the gasket or strip bolt threads... and your new gasket will leak. You want the bolts TIGHT, but not over-tight.

Lower the car and refill the crankcase oil.

Oh... while you were in there, I hope you remembered to remove the oil pickup and clean (or replace) it. :) :) :)

Jul 26, 2014 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories

1 Answer

Ran over something in the street, cracked lower oil pan had it repaired that was 3 days ago...the engine light just came on I checked there is oil in the car however I do believe there is an oil leak


Because of the material used in the construction of the sump and the fact that the oil impregnates into the surface of the steel any welding repairs to the sump are going to be "iffy" at best as the material cracks around the weld area.. I imagine the sump was removed to carry out the weld in which case I would be looking at loose sump bolts or the gasket was over tightened and has squeezed out allowing it to leak. Check that the oil sender wire hasn't fallen off and is shorting out on the engine

Aug 17, 2013 | 2003 Mitsubishi Diamante

1 Answer

What are the steps in changing the oil in a 1986 Lincoln Town Car


1) Purchase appropriate oil filter, sump drain bung washer and chosen engine oil.
2) Prepare an oil pan, sump bung wrench and oil filter removal tool (check access to oil filter to be sure that your tool is suitable.)
3) Run the engine until its warm to hot.
4) With the car jacked up and secured, remove engine oil filler cap and remove engine oil sump drain bung and allow oil to flow out into your drain pan. Keep an eye on your oil and make sure it doesn't overflow from your drain pan.

5) Refit sump bung with new washer and tighten. Do not over-tighten, and be especially careful when tightening into an alluminium sump.


6) Remove oil filter. Oil will flow out from this filter when removing, so your drain pan will need to be under the filter housing when removing.


7) Run a smear of clean engine oil around the filter rubber seal and refit new filter. Tighten hand tight only. Do NOT crank this filter super tight as you may damage the rubber seal and even the filter casing which can impede oil flow.


8) Refill engine with proper quantity of oil. If you cannot find how much oil your engine is supposed to take, then refill with the same quantity of oil which you drained out.


9) Restart the engine while checking the oil pressure warning light on the dash. The warning light may stay on for three or four seconds and then go out. If this light stays on for longer, then stop your engine and check for oil leaks at the filter body and sump drain bung.


10) Once the engine oil pressure warning light is off after starting, stop the engine and check the engine oil level (with vehicle on the flat and off any axle stands.)


11) Road test the vehicle, driving it for a mile or two before re-checking for oil leaks under the engine bay and engine oil quantity.

Nov 04, 2012 | Lincoln Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I changed my oil less than a month ago on my 1996 Jetta GL 2.0 and since then the oil they put had leaked out completely. I bought my own oil and just filled it up and it leaked out again. I took it today...


Hi
It sounds like the sump gasket is leaking, this can happen over time and with a car of this age is not unusual, the gasket should cost no more than say £10 GBP and labour would be about 1 hour max.

Hope this helps
Regards

Dan

Dec 29, 2010 | 1996 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

What to do if engine oil drain bolt lost its grooves (not tread)...whats the best solution for removing drain bolt without doing any damage?


Typically , the threads in the crankcase are what get stripped out. Find a dealer that has oversize drain bolts and have them tap the drain hole in the crankcase out to the next size bolt. That is the best fix for a stripped drain bolt hole. Always be careful, when changing your oil , to only tight the filter and the drain bolt (with soft aluminum sealing washer) enough to seal the oil in . Over tightening will only make the next oil change harder with the possibility of this happening again.

Nov 05, 2010 | 2001 Honda CBR 600 F(4)i

1 Answer

Changing a sump on Jetta IV


You need VW silicone sealant D 176 404 A2.
  • Apply 2 to 3mm (1/8") bead of new sealant to oil pan sealing surface. Be sure to run bead on the inside of the bolt holes.
  • Immediately install oil pan to cylinder block and loosely install M7 bolts diagonally.
  • Install and lightly tighten M10 bolts securing oil pan to transmission.
  • Diagonally tighten M7 oil pan bolt further, but not final torque.
  • Diagonally torque M7 bolts securing oil pan to cylinder block.
  • Oil pan to transmission (M10)... 45 Nm(33 ft-lb)
  • Oil pan to cylinder block (M7)...15 Nm(11 ft-lb)
  • Wait 30 minutes as prescribed and refill with proper viscosity and quantity of engine oil.

Apr 20, 2010 | 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

Oil sump leakege


Unfortunately it sounds like you may have stripped the sump plate of its threads, have a look at the bolt and note the condition of the threads. There's not a lot you can do except remove sump & replace or if you have a 'handy' engineering shop they maybe able to weld and re-tap to the correct thread.

Dec 20, 2008 | 1989 Suzuki GSX-R 750 RK

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