How to remove a sump from a Audi A4 1998 1.8 turbo
Raise the car and PUT IT ON JACKSTANDS. If it falls, it WILL KILL YOU.
Get underneath the front and locate the sump ("oil pan" to those of us on the American side of the pond). Around its rim you'll find a (rectangular) ring of bolts - quite a lot of them. You can use a socket with about a 6" (15cm) extension to reach the bolt heads.
Drain the sump before you loosen any bolts. Remove all the bolts except two at each end - only loosen the two at each end, but loosen them a long way. You want about three bolt threads still remaining in place.
Now take a large rubber mallet underneath the car and tap on both sides of the sump. Its gasket tends to be very stubborn about coming off, so you may need to tap it pretty hard. Don't bludgeon it to death - if tapping hard doesn't break the gasket loose, you may have neglected to remove a bolt someplace. Check again.
When it comes loose, it'll probably be pretty sudden. This is why you left those four bolts in the corners - to catch it and prevent it from falling in your face upside-down, then bouncing off to the side & filling with dirt. You need it to remain totally clean inside.
When it comes loose, you can finish removing the last four bolts. Unless I miss my guess, you used Castrol GTX in that engine, so the inside of the sump will be NASTY. Clean it up well with clean rags and kerosene or mineral (white) spirits. Do NOT use gasoline (petrol), because that can cause severe anemia.
When all the nasty stuff is cleaned out, remove the remaining gasket material from the sump's rim. Crawl back under the car to inspect for any remaining gasket material from the underside of the block, too. Use a gasket scraper for both surfaces - you want nothing but bright shiny metal for gasket surfaces.
Using a good automotive gasket sealer (shellac-based or silicone-based), apply the gasket to the rim of the sump. Use several bolts, inserted backwards, to temporarily hold it in place while you press the gasket into intimate contact with the sump's rim. Immediately remove those bolts and apply gasket sealer also to the second gasket surface. Transfer the newly gasketed sump underneath the car - do this while the gasket sealer is still uncured.
Very carefully, so as to not disturb the gasket, lift it into place and reinstall as many bolts as you can start with your fingers. Be VERY sure that every bolt goes through a hole in the gasket - do NOT allow the gasket to slip to the side, or it'll leak very badly.
Use your socket & extension to install the rest of the bolts. Snug all the bolts up only finger-tight, then begin tightening them with your socket. First tighten the two bolts opposite each other in the middle of the sump's two narrow sides - tighten them only about half-tight. From there, work your way out to the ends of the sump, then go back to the middle two again and tighten them fully. Again work your way out to the ends.
DO NOT overtighten these bolts! Be careful not to distort any metal, and remember that these bolts are threading into alumin(i)um so they can't tolerate the kind of torque that iron will accept. If you distort the metal, you may also damage the gasket or strip bolt threads... and your new gasket will leak. You want the bolts TIGHT, but not over-tight.
Lower the car and refill the crankcase oil.
Oh... while you were in there, I hope you remembered to remove the oil pickup and clean (or replace) it. :) :) :)
Jul 26, 2014 |
Vehicle Parts & Accessories