Question about 2012 Husqvarna WR 300

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2012 WR300 keeps eating pistons due to ducati ignition fault/failure/erratic spark.can i fit kokusan ignition,do i need entire wiring loom to keep rego'ed?

Has seized 3 times,fixed under warranty.mixture,jetting good.seized due to erratic/weak spark.i need info on how to fit kokusan ignition,advance setting,wiring loom info/suitability.can't use it as is.thank

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: My son has a 2012 WR300 husky motorcycle that has seized twice and had part of the ignition system replaced. All of the 3 claims were repaired under warranty.The question is A. What long term damage w

Take it to the dealer and have them fix it....the warranty should cover the kickstarting and other issues. If you're in the US, I'd file a complaint w/the Husky distributor (not the dealer) and tell them it needs fixed or replaced - be 'nice' but 'firm'...yelling won't usually help!
GL.
Td

Posted on Oct 02, 2012

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89 Chevy s10 blazer 4.3 I've tried 93 octane gas vavles rattle under a load


it is not the valves that are rattling under load but detonation in the combustion chambers from incorrect air/fuel mixture and ignition timing
The rattle is the pistons being slapped against the cylinder wall and the rings taking a pounding in the ring grooves
detonation is the untimed spontaneous combustion of a weak air/fuel mixture ( diesel action) before the spark ignites the mixture
It can melt the top out of the piston because it sends the combustion temperature up to 200 degrees c higher than normal
Evidence of detonation in an engine can be seen in the crown of the piston as small pit marks as if being pounded by ball bearings
How to fix --- drop the advance timing of the ignition back to 12 btdc ( standard on chev motors) or better back to 10 degrees btdc
increase the main jet sizes in the carbys or make sure that the power valves are operational in the carbies
The correct air/fuel mixture is 15:1 and that should be maintained at all times unless under acceleration when it can go up to 17 or 18:1 but if it drops below 14:1 when the throttle is wide open and the fuel is not increased to compensate ( accelerator pump or power valve ) then detonation will occur

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MITSUBISH LANCER ONE IGNITION COIL (BLACK/GREEN) NOT WORKING BUT SOMETIMES IT WORKS BUT AFTER STOPING THE ENGINE IT DOESNT RESTART


Evison: According to DoItYourself.com: " If your vehicle is behaving erratically and you have problems with it running smoothly, it could be showing signs of ignition coil failure. The ignition coil takes power from the generator and relays it to the spark plugs. This ignites the fuel and makes your vehicle run. The severity of the symptoms vary according to which of the ignition coils are failing.
Backfiring If your vehicle is backfiring, this can indicate early symptoms of a failing ignition coil. This occurs when unused fuel is emitted through the exhaust system. If you do not address the issue, you can also do serious damage to your exhaust, resulting in unnecessary and costly repairs. Your exhaust may emit a black smoke and you may even detect the smell of gasoline.
Starting Problems Check your high tension leads (HT Leads). These run between the distributor and spark plugs. Ignition coil failures result in one or more spark plugs not receiving the appropriate amount of charge. If you have trouble starting your vehicle in the cold, this is a good sign of potential ignition coil failure. You can run a simple test on the HT leads to check that there is in fact a spark going from each lead to each spark plug.
Fuel Economy If your vehicle is getting a lot less mileage for the gallon, This can also be a sign of ignition coil failure. When less power is reaching the spark plugs, your vehicle will struggle and use more fuel to compensate for the lack of power transfer.
Engine Misfiring Trying to start your vehicle when the ignition coils fail will result in a rough ride. Your vehicle will cough and splutter regularly and when you drive at higher speeds, your vehicle will jerk and spit. It will also vibrate when you are running idle at a stop sign or intersection.
Vehicle Stalling With ignition coil failure, your vehicle will have irregular sparks emitting to the plugs to keep it running. This will result in stalling. When you bring your vehicle to a stop, it may just shut off totally, thus leaving you needing to restart it.
Coil Failure If your spark plugs are worn out, it forces the ignition coils to operate at a much higher output. Keeping your sparks plug in optimum condition can reduce your chances of having ignition coil problems. Some simple regular maintenance will save you a lot of money in the long run.
If the gap in your spark plug widens due to normal erosion, it leads to an increased voltage being required to create a spark in the chamber. That increased voltage demands more current flow through the primary circuit and this increased current flow can overload the primary transistor. Keeping all these components in good running condition is also a big help towards keeping your coils in a good working condition."

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1 Answer

I am getting no timing advance under load but when in neutral it gets full advance, there seems to be something telling it not to advance


ignition advance depends on several things happening. When in neutral there is high vacuum which sets the spark advance accordingly to be right for the mixture at the rpms
under load there is low or no vacuum so the mixture is different which requires a different timing setting
It was always known as timing advance on distributors but in many cases the ignition timing was actually retarded according to vacuum and rpms requirements.
If there are no codes being recorded then the electronics are doing their job.

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1 Answer

98 chev 3500 with 5.7 won't start no codes cranks good and tries to go but acts like timing is way advanced or erratic. Where do I start looking?


Could be a spark problem where the dist cap is shorting out.
Or weak plug wires letting electricity jump to ground or other wires.
Could also be out of time due to a timing chain issue.

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Why is my 2004 Ford Freestar engine rattles when I accelerate even after a tune up has being done to the engine?


Pre-ignition or knock maybe. Ignition timing over-advanced, fuel mixture weak, or possibly the plugs. Faulty knock sensor?

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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To rich air fuel mixture KHEIN CV carb,misfire


Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap to close or to wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connections at battery terminals,
ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
11. Damaged carburetor.
12. Loose or dirty ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and or CMP sensors.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Weak or broken valve springs.
16. Damage intake or exhaust vale.
Good luck

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Burning of spark plugs, could be a weak fuel mixture, Ignition timing advanced ( unlikely), wrong plugs fitted, ask dealer for a colder plug

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, David and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you will need please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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