Question about 2011 KTM EXC 530 Champions Edition

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Brembo brakes My front Brembo brake lever goes to the bar, This is the second time it has happen. The first time I replaced the piston in the master cylinder. This worked for just under a year and it did it again. Everything in the system is fine. I have read that other brake systems might work also, Is this true and if so which ones?

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If the caliper is not leaking the master cylinder has failed again. The master cylinder body must have a scratch it. This is NOT a serviceable part. Replace master cylinder

Posted on Apr 04, 2014


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Rear brake cylinder and bleeding

Relax....KTM's are delicate in this procedure.
First of all make sure that you are using DOT 5.1 brake fluid and not 4 as we use in the Japan models.
Then take the rear caliper in your hands and push the piston all the way in.Then bolt it on its position.
Bolt on the brake hose to the rear caliper tight and leave it loose on the rear master cylinder side (loose but ready to tight it on like half circle loose) and clean up the reservoir completely.
Take a syringe from a pharmacy and a piece of 3mm clear tube.
Start pushing brake fluid in the caliper's loose bleeder until you see fluid coming out fron the hose's loose end on the master cylinder.
The tight the cylinder's bolt and keep pushing fluid until you see it filling up the reservoir.
When you see the reservoir fully filled up, tight the bleeder, take out the syringe and start pressing the brake pedal 15-20 times and the last one keep it down and loose the bleeder (with a tube attached to it and to a bottle) for a sec to relieve the pressure along with any air bubbles.DON'T LIFT THE PEDAL UNTIL YOU HAVE TIGHT BACK THE BLEEDER or the system will **** air in.FIRST tight the bleeder and THEN loose the pedal.
Keep doing that until NO air comes out of the system.
While you are doing this second stage keep filling up the reservoir and do not let the master cylinder **** air in.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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SOURCE: how do Iremove the rear foot brake piston on ktm

a compressed air hose will do it, just make sure it is wrapped in rags to catch the piston and some brake fluid that will come out.
Dont point it towards anyone when you do it.

Posted on Jul 17, 2010

  • 738 Answers

SOURCE: hi, i am trying to

hi, try lifting the caliper higher than the brake resivoir, as the fluid will then have to be pumped up hill and the chances of removing the air ar improved, do you have a bleed nipple at the rear mastercylinder, if so bleed it here first, does this bike have rubber rear brake line, if it does you can clamp the pipe close to the master cylinder with some grips useing a cloth wraped around the hose to reduce damage, with the pipe clamped the mastercylinder should be hard when depresing the pedal, if this is the case u can then force the fluid through to the rear caliper by opening the nipple on the caliper then using the on of pumping method using the grips, press down on the pedal with the grips released, dont let go of the pedal again until you have re clamped the hose again, keep repeating this untill all the air is removed and the fluid comes freely from the caliper bleed nipple, finish off with the grips completly removed and bleed as usual at the caliper, all the time not alowing the fluid level to drop low in the resivoir. hope this helps, paul

Posted on Dec 18, 2010

  • 292 Answers

SOURCE: My rear brake dose not work. When I removed the

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
The Rubber Diaphragm by nature is usually somewhat collapsed and twisted looking. Unless it appears to be non functional it's probably OK. It's important to have fluid and make sure the air is out of the system. There is a bleeder screw to allow for evacuating the air out of the system. Go To: 2004 > 450 EXC-G RACING (USA) > CHASSIS > BRAKE CALIPER REAR
Also look at the repair kit Item #2 (50313081200)
You can purchase a complete repair manual from this site:
Make sure you have serviceable pads, proper KTM brake fluid, and the air is out of the system and the brake cylinder is functional and you will have brakes. There is also an accessory available the cools the fluid for the rear brakes and keeps them from fading if you ride the pedal or are constantly braking. Ask you dealer.
Let us know if we can be of further service.

Kind regards,

Posted on Jul 18, 2011

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: 05 KTM 525 Clutch problem Clutch not disengaging when bike gets hot

It sounds like to me that the slave cylinder { If it is close to the engines gearbox} it might b getting to hot. How is the oil in the gearbox? It could be overheating !!!!!

Posted on Mar 13, 2012

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topped-up the fluid and put in new pads. The wheel spins OK when up on the stand and the brakes don't jam or even seem sticky when you try them with the back wheel off the ground —ie: calipers grip and open again as they should. But on the open road the pads still seem to rub just enough to generate a warm to hot disc. (And the pedal has the right amount of play before the brakes come on.) Since working over the caliper and re-bleeding the brakes etc it seems a bit better (no fading) but it still runs a little warm to hot. I'm wondering about a complete service for the rear Brembo popping the pistons out and changing the seals etc but before I do (and I have to say it all looks absolutely fine as it is), is there anything else I should be looking at / thinking of? The disc seems true and unwarped. I know there's some anxiety about getting the right type of Brembo pad for the rear brakes on these particular bikes. Some are too thick? The parts book says Frendo FD 72 GG 222, (Guzzi part no: 27 65 46 10) and the caliper itself is marked 204531.03 if that means anything. (Is this the P32 type?) The pads I have are supposed to be the proper Brembo ones with the code 98.5031.50. Is there something I don’t know about this? ,FWIW this was a problem with some Sportis when they were new, to the extent that I saw a couple with completely smoked rear brakes, overheated due to brake drag. Mine never did it, so I don't know the root cause. In at least one of the instances I saw, the dealer replaced the entire brake system under warranty. There was a separate and likely unrelated issue with rear brake disks that were machined with a step in the middle of the pad's foorprint on one side. At the time, I heard people attributing the brake drag problem to the disk problem, but I can't see a correlation. ,,,

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