Question about 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

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Clutch instalment thick steel one side frictionplate in first or last?

On instalation ono friction plate is a thick plate friction on oneside only not a frictionplate frome new set?

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You should never have steel against steel. It should be fiber plate then steel each time.

Posted on Mar 27, 2014

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johnamyx
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SOURCE: i have a 80 sportster

You probably have warped steel plates. When you change clutches you should always change both plates and springs. You could also have weak springs.

Posted on Sep 01, 2011

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2006 harley clutch pack assembly


After having soaked the friction plates as required first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring
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1 Answer

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new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off. So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped. The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack. Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,

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new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off. So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped. The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack. Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

Clutch


new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off. So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped. The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack. Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,

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