Question about 2011 Moto Guzzi Stelvio 1200 4V

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Consumer complaints I bought brand new this bike with two problems , transmission bearing noisy, and both front arm suspension leaking ,end of november 20 13 , we are now end of march and no action has been taken to solve my problem by the dealer , moreover the oil threaten to flow on the front disk brake ,every displacement I need to wipe it, nay address I could push this faster ,merci for ur help

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Dealers are bad news--getta repair manual if u like mechanix or bring it to an independent shop that u feel is honest

Posted on Mar 23, 2014


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Why does my 1993 Jeep Cherokee 4WD wobble real bad when I hit a bump going 55 mph?

Ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm end, cracked suspension or front frame, loose steering gear, rotated axle housing, bad shock absorbers, unbalanced drive shaft, bad universal joint, loose lug nuts, loose axle shaft nut, bad wheel bearings... go through it ALL, very carefully.

Jul 26, 2014 | Denso 1993 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L...

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I find the LG dishwasher to be of good quality and the only complaint I have regarding the LG brand of dishwasher is that the motors used all have Korean bearings and after a year or so you end up with a dishwasher that gets noisy (a hum) that gets louder, By replacing the motor bearings with good quality bearings solves the problem a small price but you must do this or have it done!!!

May 06, 2013 | LG Dishwashers

1 Answer

Frontt end noise

If this is a common problem, check with for Consumer complaints and NHTSA rulings. Just enter your vehicle to see what has been reported.

As the other Expert indicated, we need more data to solve this. You can have an issue with anything that turns. If noise is present when stopped, making a left or right turn, above or below 45MPH, if it shakes,

For a good chassis inspection, get a front-end alignment because any good shop will check the suspension before doing the job. They can also check for hubs and bearings and really should be forewarned if you believe there are issues. You don't want to waste a good alignment with excessive play in hub bearings.

I hope my solution is helpful.

Jun 29, 2012 | 1997 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

05 deuce, front end shakes, think its neck bearings? I put lots of grease in fitting, it took quite a bit, think it might have been dry. How do I change neck bearings?

There's a lot of things that I'd check before I started tearing into the steering head of the bike. Have you had your front wheel balanced and the bearings checked in it? Is the tire seated properly on the wheel? There's more to a front suspension system than merely changing the bearings out. Unless you've been using a pressure washer on the bike, odds are nothing is wrong with the bearings. I've restored many bikes built in the 60's and never found a bad set of steering head bearings and they didn't have grease fittings on them. The tension of the steering head bearings have a particular setting on them. Called the "Fall-Away" setting, it is how far the front end will turn before it "falls" all the way to the fork stops. At least the earlier bikes had this. Since I've never had to mess with the steering head of a bike as new as yours I can't tell you how to change the bearings. But, you can got to and look up the suspension system on your bike to get an exploded view.

Good Luck

Aug 15, 2011 | 2004 Harley Davidson FXSTD - FXSTDI...

1 Answer

Excessive play in the steering wheel, car is all over the road. What could this be?

The steering gear box is worn out. And, there's probably worn front suspension components adding to the problem. You will need to check the following parts for looseness or movement: Idler Arm, Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Control Arm Bushings, Pitman Arm, Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends, Front Hub Bearings. All of these can be replaced in your driveway with the exception of the Control Arm Bushings which are pressed in and require special tools to remove and install the bushings. If you can't replace all of them, concentrate your efforts on the following: Steering Box, Idler arm, and Control Arm Bushings. If you can afford to have all of them done, the front suspension would be factory fresh and should, with proper wheel alignment, drive like a new car.

Dec 24, 2010 | 1996 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

Im installing a new clutch paw an im not sure witch way the curve of the fingers should go

I am going to assume that you're talking about the "finger" on a four speed transmission. It's difficult to explain how it's supposed to look. So, I'm going to tell you how it works. When you pull the clutch lever in, the cable pulls the clutch release arm towards the front of the bike. The "finger" straddles the throwout bearing with very tip end of the clutch release rod extending between the two "fingers" of the "finger" itself. The tip of the clutch release rod goes in the slot between the fingers. This pushed the rod towards the other side of the bike and pushes the pressure plate to the release the tension on the clutch pack.

Hold the end cover of the transmission up like you're going to put it on the transmission. The clutch release arm should point towards the center of the bike. The "fingers should point to the rear of the bike with the flat side towards the center of the bike.

Does this make sense? If not, write me directly at

Oct 24, 2009 | Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider...

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Loud noise, leaking and spinning so hard the agitator spins off-bought in 2007. I have been told that it is a "bad" bearing and seal. AND that it would cost more to repair that if I bought a new washer. ...

If in fact the seals and bearing have gone bad the repairs can be expensive indeed.
Maytag does have a program that gives you warranty for 5 years on the transmission itself and such repairs can be counted as such.
I would check with Maytag to see what kind of reimbursment they can give you (

Aug 18, 2009 | Maytag Legacy Series Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I am trying to get the wheel assembly apart to change the front bearings on a 1996 mercury villiger

Item Part Number Description 1 — Cotter Pin 2 — Nut Retainer 3 1131 Insulator 4 3B477 Front Axle Wheel Hub Retainer 5 1195 Front Wheel Outer Bearing Retainer Washer 6 1104 Wheel Hub 7 1107 Lug Bolt 8 3K050 Snap Ring 9 3123 Front Wheel Bearing 10 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield 11 3130 Front Wheel Knuckle

Wheel Hub, Wheel Knuckle and Wheel Bearing SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel (1007) and tire assembly.
  3. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the front brake hose (2078).

    Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) and suspend it with mechanic's wire out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 for the removal procedure.
  4. Remove the front disc brake rotor (1125).
  5. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
  6. Remove the nut retainer and insulator.
  7. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) and the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195).

  8. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050).
  9. Loosen the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut until it contacts the front wheel driveshaft joint.


  10. Strike the front wheel knuckle with a hammer while pulling down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) until the front suspension lower arm ball joint separates from the front wheel knuckle.

  11. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut.

  12. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint from the front wheel knuckle.
  13. Remove and discard the cotter pin.

  14. Remove the tie rod end nut.

  15. Use Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A to separate the tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle.

  16. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor bolt.

  17. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts.

  18. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  19. Remove the front shock absorber (18124) from the front wheel knuckle.
  20. Use 2-Jaw Puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent, to separate the front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B436) from the front wheel knuckle.
  21. Remove the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly from the vehicle.
  22. If necessary, match mark and remove the steering stop bolt and steering stop bolt jam nut from the front wheel knuckle.

  1. Position the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly on the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
  1. Install the front wheel knuckle into the front shock absorber.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts. Tighten the front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts to 113-123 Nm (83-91 lb-ft).

Apr 10, 2009 | 1996 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

Transmission / road noise

If the noise in the front increases whenever you drive forward with the wheels turned then you can be sure that the CV joints are worn out and in need of replacing.
Also,,even if there is no play in the wheel bearings,it doesn't mean the bearings have not worn out.
The transmission oil type should be specified on a sticker inside the door jamb,,or under the hood.

Jan 29, 2009 | 1993 Chrysler Town & Country

2 Answers

Noisy spin cycle

Hey ****, what you are hearing is the spin bearing. Maytag redesigned the bearing kit on this washer, there must of been a lot of leaks causing the bearing to go bad. They put out a service flash...TDL-0060-B. New seal and bearing kit, part number12002470. You may want to contact Maytag on this for it could be covered. I know you have 5 years warranty on the transmission and If they change that, they have to use a new seal and bearing. back.

Oct 06, 2006 | Maytag SAV5710 Top Load Washer

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