Question about 2004 Yamaha WR 450 F

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Clutch boss removal

Wont slide out

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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
WR450F Clutch Replacement
Clutch Video
Yamaha WR450FR Owner Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
YAMAHA WR450F Owner Manual

Posted on Oct 24, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

How do I hold clutch boss to torque nut without hurting the clutch basket


Hi Justin there is a tool for that if you can't get one get an old metal clutch plate and weld a rod to it so you can use it to hold the boss. Regards Jim...

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How to change blade boss on briggs &stratton sp 470


Unscrew the central bolt (9/16") - remove blade and any washers etc. It's a conventional right hand thread (anti-clockwise to remove), but may well be extremely tight. If necessary, grind the head of the bolt off and replace it.

The blade boss slides off the shaft - in theory. In practice, you will probably have to use a puller bearing on the blade bolt to pull it off. Remove the drive belt first!

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Its probably the clutch.The Weights may be broken.

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How to remove a clutch from a 1994 polaris pvt


Jerry,

This is the forum for the kids toy, you might have better luck if you post in the atv forum

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Need to know how to change 85 lowrider alternator. Fxr. And help would begreat


Instructions
  1. Replacing the Alternator
    • 1 Remove the drain plug located under the clutch area of the primary chaincase and drain the chaincase lubricant into a catch pan. Remove all mounting bolts from the primary cover and slide the cover from its locating studs. Loosen the primary chain tensioner and inspect it for wear (this is a logical time to replace the tensioner shoe, since you are in the case).
    • 2 Lock the primary chain where it enters the bottom of the clutch drum. Remove the engine sprocket nut and slide the compensator/sprocket assembly from the engine sprocket shaft. Slide the reluctor bowl off the engine sprocket shaft. Push the stator plug through the hole into the inner primary case. Remove the stator mounting bolts and slide the stator from its support boss. Remove the stator from the case.
    • 3 Slide the new stator onto the support boss and orient it so that the stator wires are closest to the stator plug hole in the case. Install and torque the new stator bolts to factory specification (refer to manufacturer's torque sheet). Do not re-use the old bolts. The bolts come pre-treated with Loctite and are designed for one-time use. Insert the stator plug into the plug hole and snap it into place.
    • 4 Slide the reluctor bowl onto the sprocket shaft and bottom it onto the shaft shoulder. Align the splines on the shaft and the compensator/sprocket assembly and slide the assembly into position. Install the engine sprocket nut and torque to factory specification for your model of Harley. Adjust the primary chain tensioner to factory specification.
    • 5 Scrape the old primary gasket from the case. Harley Davidson gaskets are produced with a print-o-seal feature that melts and '"cooks" onto the case surface. Insure that all of the old gasket is removed from the machined surfaces. Use caution when scraping the gasket, as the cast-aluminum cases are easily gouged, leading to poor sealing and leaks. Install the fresh gasket onto the locating studs, followed by the primary chaincase cover. Torque the primary cover to the proper torque and in the recommended pattern according to the specification sheet for your model of Harley. Remove the inspection plate and add new chaincase lubricant. Replace the inspection cover gasket and re-install the inspection plate.

Apr 24, 2012 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider

1 Answer

Last night we were washing some clothes and all of a sudden we heard a load clicking type noise. i checked the timer and it was on rinse. The water does drain but it doestn spin and it still makes the...


This washer is easy as heck to repair. Don't be scared to repair this washer.
You could have a broken brake cam driver.themobilian_1662.jpg To inspect it you remove the agitator and drop the Tranny. Hay you already had the motor and pump off there so 4 more bolts (3 for the tranny and 1 for the agitator) Slide out the tranny and check the brake cam actuator. The little ear on it breaks off and won't release the brake. The part is held with a small easy to remove C clip. The next thing to do is remove the clutch and tranny cover. Inspect the main drive gear and pinion.themobilian_1663.jpg
If that seems to be good remove the main drive gear and look for a smashed down spin pawl.themobilian_1664.jpgthemobilian_1665.jpgUnder that main drive gear is 3 spin bosses. over time the spin pawl takes a beating catching the boss as the neutral pack pauses from pump out to spin. themobilian_1666.jpgThis is the flip side of the main drive gear. Note the 3 notches. These are claeed bosses. Older model washers would spin and drain at the same time. Newer washers will allow the water to be pumped out first by keeping the spin pawl in check. A built-in pause allows the cent force to toss out the spin pawl where is can catch a boss and take off like Moody's goose in a tailwind. Nothing is hard about repairing this washer. Video, bad main drive gear:
I have a service manual and more HERE

themobilian_1667.jpg

Mar 03, 2011 | Whirlpool LSQ9600L Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Washer wont spin


The brake cam driver has an ear on it. They tend to break off and this won't release the brake. If that is good then you might need to check the clutch.5ff0d60.jpg Look for a thin liner or oil on the clutch. If that is the case you need to change the tranny cover seal.1c95618.jpg If that is good then inspect the main drive gear and pinion.1edfdd4.jpg These gears get smooth and won't grab.3ce3530.jpg If that is good then remove the main drive gear and look for a smashed down spin pawl. If it is smashed down it won't catch a boss under the main drive gear and spin. Training Manual

Jun 15, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

How to remove the eureka the boss super lite filter


Push up on the black slide button just above the dump cup and hold. With your other hand remove the dump cup. Once you have the dump cup removed, pull up on the rubber section of the filter to remove and clean the filter.

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1 Answer

Clutch cable broke at handle lever on 1979 harley davidson sporst


To change the clutch cable on you '79 Sporty, you'll have to take the outer primary cover off. To do this, you'll have to drain the oil from the primary, take the left side foot peg off, and loosen the primary chain adjuster on the bottom side of the primary. Loosen the locknut and use an allen wrench or hex key to screw the adjuster bolt downward.

If you need to know anything else, drop me a line at wd4ity@bellsouth.net

Then, remove the large "plug" towards the rear of the cover. Inside, you'll see something that looks like a nut but with no threads in it held in by a small spring. This the the lock nut, remove it. Below it is what looks like another nut with a slotted adjuster bolt sticking out. Remover the bolts from around the primary cover and break it loose from the engine. While turning the adjuster screw at the rear of the cover inward, remove the cover.

The cable connects to the cluch release mechanism. By turning the "link" downwards, you can disconnect it from the mechanism. Notice which way the "link" in attached to the release mechanism. Take the "link" off the end of the clutch cable.

Break the lock nut loose at the threaded cable adjuster on the outside of the case and screw the adjuster all the way out of the primary cover. Disconnect the cable at the handlebar lever and your cable is out.

Reinstall the new cable in the reverse order. When replacing the outer primary cover, make sure you use a new gasket on the cover as well as on the foot peg boss. The "foot peg boss gasket" is very important. You'll see an aluminum boss with a threaded rod sticking out of it that holds your left foot peg on. There is a round gasket that goes over this threaded rod and seals against the boss. If you leave this off, your bike will leak oil around this threaded rod when your foot peg goes on. Make sure you specifically ask for the "foot peg boss gasket" when you buy the new primary gasket. It's just a round gasket a bit larger than a quarter.

As you put the primary cover back on, there is a spring on the primary chain adjuster. Part of the spring is in the primary cover and the other part is in the engine. You'll see how it goes in. There is a large stud in that area that the outer primary cover slides up on. Adjust the tension on the primary chain by removing the "plug" at the top of the primary cover. You want 3/4" to 7/8" up and down play in the chain with the engine cold.

On the adjuster, as you're installing the outer cover, turn the ajuster screw back into the clutch release mechanism by turning the screw backwards. Once you have the outer primary cover completely installed, you must adjust the release mechanism. Adjust the screw inwards until you feel a resistance, then back the screw off about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, insert the "lock nut" and spring, and install the "plug". Then, using the cable adjuster on the outside of the cover, adjust the cable. Add oil.

Oct 26, 2009 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

Clutch cover wont go back on


Your cover probably won't go back on because the kickback/chain brake is on. Pull the handle on the cover back until you hear a click, the it will go on. As for removing the clutch, you need Poulan tool # 530031112 and an impact witha 3/4 socket. If you're just trying to reset chain break, removing clutch is not necessary, just pull back on handle as I said before.

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