Wet front fork fluid change

Spare parts and accessories for YAMAHA FZ8 RN25 - Louis

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Fork oil per rod: R:555 ML/L:563 10W ; Engine oil w/o filter: 2,9 L SAE 10W-40 ; Engine oil with filter: 3,1 L MIN. API SG ; Brake fluid: DOT 4 ; Fuel: 17,0 LITER.

SOLVED: Yamaha fz front fork oil capacity - Fixya

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Sept 4, 2019 - Use Yamaha suspension oil #01. Amount is 19 ounces. Oil level from top surface w/o cap nut is 3.15" to 5.51". I am sending you a link to a site where you can ...
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Not brake fluid or Hydraulic oil ( oil weight is the issue)
Drain forks ( bottom nipple) , remove top bold , be careful it is pressurized by spring . Use the right tool otherwise will damage bolt and your face.

Front forks should be sealed properly, fork seal should be intact, no water or brake fluid in them. Right amount of fork fluid is imperative along with oil weight specification ( check manual and appropriate oil weight for your bike), wrong oil and amount can otherwise damage your forks.

You may not have enough oil in the front forks or you may been a heavier viscosity of oil. I'm sorry but I don't have the oil capacity for your "Low Sportster". All I have is for "Hugger" models. They take 10.7oz. "wet" and 12.1 "dry". The difference between "wet" and "dry" is that if you simply drain and refill the front forks, it's call a "wet" oil change. If you disassemble and clean the forks of all oil inside, it's called a "dry" oil change. Contact the service department of your local shop and ask them how much oil goes in the front fork. To change the oil, there is usually a small screw in the trailing side of the lower fork slider down near the axle. Take these out and the oil will drain to a certain degree. Hold the brake while working the forks up and down with your weight to get all the oil that draining will get out of them. If you want all the oil out, you'll have to disassemble the fork tube. I would not do this if the seals are not leaking. Replace the screws in the sliders and then remove the top cap from one tube at the time and refill the tube with the specified amount of oil. Sometimes, the top caps can be difficult to get back in due to the pressure of the large spring in the front fork tubes. You may need a tool to compress the sping. I'm not sure on the "Low" model. I've always managed to the top caps back in without any special tool but I've never done a "Low" model bike. Harley uses what they call their "Type E" fork oil. I do not know what the viscosity of this oil is so I always use PJ-1 30 weight fork oil for most applications. Use only fork oil as any other oil may have a tendency to foam thereby negating any dampening action of the forks. If this doesn't solve your problem, you may want to check into changing the springs in the front forks. Progressive Suspension and others make kits for this.

Good Luck
Steve

Yes your fluid may need to be changed if you want a more firm front end. I don't know what type of fluid you have in the forks now but what you need to do is to go with a thicker oil. In my '94 FXDWG, I went to PJ1 30 weight oil. Since I don't have a book on your late model bike, I can't tell you how much oil to put into each tube. There is a "wet" and a "dry" quantity to add when you've drained them. If you simply drain the oil and refill the fork tubes, use the "wet" quantity of oil. If you disassemble and clean the tubes out, use the "dry" quantity when you refill.

To drain the oil, look on the trailing side of the fork sliders. You'll see a screw or a set screw in the slider. Take this plug out and some of the oil will simply flow out. To get all of it out, hold the front brake and push down on the handlebars. Now, oil will spray everywhere so don't do this job in your living room. Once you get the oil out of both tubes, reinstall the plugs and refill the tubes one at the time by removing the top cap out of the tube and pouring the prescribed amount of oil into each fork tube. Ride the bike and see if the front suspension is too soft, too firm, or just right. Remember, the heavier the viscosity of the oil, the more firm the front suspension is. If you can't get it right, you might want to consider changing the springs in the fork tubes.

Good Luck
Steve

If you are saying that your front suspension is too soft, you can change the fork oil in the front forks to a heavier viscosity. I think Harley recommends Type E fork oil. I've found that PJB 30 wt. fork oil works best for me.

Since I'm not familiar with the newer forks, I'll have to recommend that you ask the dealer how to drain and refill the forks and how much oil to put back in them. There are usually two amounts of oil to put in the forks. One amount is a "dry" amount to add when you disassemble the forks and then refill them. The "wet" amount is for when you simply drain the forks and then refill them. Naturally, the "wet" amount will be less than the "dry" amount.

Sorry I couldn't give you more information but my expertise is the earlier model Harley bikes.

Good Luck
Steve

If all you want to do it replace your fork seals, if you can find a way to jack the bike high enough, you don't have the fork tubes our ot the triple trees. Work with on fork tube at a time. Raise the bike up off the ground and take the front wheel and fender off. Brake caliper off it's tube. Now raise the bike up to where you've got about a foot of clearance below the lowest point of the slider. Look underneath the slider where the axle goes through and you'll see an 8mm bolt. Take this bolt out and your lower slider will come off. The fork oil will start to drain as soon as you take the bolt loose as well. Leave a pan under the upper fork while you work on the lower to catch the dripping oil. Replace the fork seal and reassemble that tube. Then, do the next one. Now, refill the tube with the correct amount of the correct oil from the top by removing the top cap nut. Pour in the correct amount of oil for a "wet" refill. The thicker the viscosity of the oil, the firmer the front fork action. I think they came with H-D type E which seems to be a bit softer action than 30 weight fork oil. Make sure you use fork oil. Regular engine oil or transmission oil should not be used and it will foam if you're riding down a rough road and your forks will collapse and not work until the oil settles again. Not a pleasant feeling. It's really doubtful if you'll get anywhere that is that rough with your Harley.

Good Luck
Steve

The "clicking" noise you are hearing when you make a "hard stop", is the springs inside the fork compressing. This is not unusual. You can change your fork oil viscosity to stiffen the forks but they may be too stiff once you've done it, The only way to tell is try it.

There is a small screw or bolt on the down low on the fork lower slider. Take this screw out and work the front end up and down, The fork oil will be pumped out the front end. This makes a terrible mess so don't do it in your living room.

Once you have the oil out of the front end, it's best to lift the bike off the ground. Remove the top cap from each tube and refill the fork tubes with the proper amount of oil for a "wet" oil change. Sorry but I don't have that information but it will be somewhere around 10.2 ounces. Check to make sure for your year model. I put 30 wt. fork oil in my FXDWG and the forks are a bit stiff but that's how I like them. Try it and if it's too stiff, you'll just have to change it back to say 20wt or maybe Honda might have a 25 wt. oil. Do one side of the forks at a time.

If, notice I said "if", your bike has the standard 41mm wide glide front end, changing the fork seals is not that difficult.

Get the bike up off the ground on a stable lift. Safety is paramount.

Now take the front wheel and fender off. Take the large "Bolt" out of one of the fork tubes at the upper triple tree. There are special sockets made to do this with so that you won't scratch your chrome upper tree. Loosen the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree. Put some lubricant on the fork tube and work it down and out of the triple trees. You may have to spead the lower triple tree by driving a chisel into the slot from the bottom side.

Once you have one of the fork tubes out. Remove the plug at the top. There will be a large spring under the plug. Usually it doesn't have much pressure on it with the tube fully extended and if it's the stock spring. With the plug and the spring out, you can pour the oil out of the tube. Notice which direction the spring comes out of the tube. I must go back in with the tapered end down.

Look on the bottom of the tube where the axle goes through. You'll see an allen head or socket head bolt in there. It' should be an 8mm sized bolt but it takes a "piloted" hex key. Now, you can use a standard hex key but it must be in new condition since the bolt head is so shallow. I have found that a hex key socket used with an air wrench is best to get the screw out. With the screw, you can now seperate the upper fork tube from the lower slider.

Remove the retainer ring in the top of the slider and pry out the old seal. Install the new seal in the proper direction. Reassemble the fork assembly. Now, add the proper amount of oil to the tube before you install the upper plug. The forks take 10.2 to 11.2 ounces of oil each. The lower figure is for a "Wet" refill and the higher number is for a "Dry" refill. If you take your fork tube apart and pour out all the oil, use the "dry" figure of 11.2 ounces type "E" or 30 weight fork oil. If the forks are too stiff with this oil, drop back to 20 weight fork oil.

Good Luck
Steve

YOU FILL FORKS BY TAKING THE CAPS OFF AT THE TOP BY UN DOING WITH A SPANNER BUT YOU MUST DO THIS WHILE THE FRONT IS OF THE GROUND AND THERE IS NO WEIGHT PUSHING THE FORKS AND YOU NEED THE MANUAL TO SEE HOW MUCH FLUID GOES INTO THE FORKS EXAMPLE IT WILL SAY (13CM FROM TOP) THIS MEANS FROM THE TOP OFF THE FORK YOU MEASURE 13CM FROM TOP TILL THE OIL HITS THE 13CM GOOD LUCK

do not compress the fork springs you must take the pressure off the springs by jacking up front end of the bic this will take some of the pressure off but be careful when removing the fork bolts there will still be some spring pressure there. drain all oil out of the shocks then you have to find out the right amount of oil and grade you need for your specific bic. hope this helps