Question about 1995 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

1 Answer

Cant seem to remove the rear needle jet from the carb

The book says to tap on the carb in grad it with needle nose it aint moving any ideas on how to remove allready went through the screen and the needle and seat. just wana make sure its clean

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  • shawn wright
    shawn wright Mar 22, 2014

    i got it just put the jet back in a few threads and pushed on the jet or just tap it a little and it comes out on the other end remove the jet and pull from the other end



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  • Suzuki Master
  • 1,554 Answers

One trick you can try.

Get a can of "computer gas duster"

This is the can of compressed air used to clean off a computer.

Shake the can a bit, then while the can is upside down, spray quite a bit all over (and inside if possible) the brass jet then try again to remove quickly.

What you are doing is quickly lowering the temperature of the brass jet, hopefully causing it to shrink slightly and loosen it.

Posted on Mar 22, 2014


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SOURCE: GSXR 750 Slingshot wont rev past 5000rpm, with or without choke

I have seen this before a few things to do too make sure. First take the air filter out and shine a light use your fingers to move the slides up and down I suspect the springs that go on the slide is not seated in center you can tell from the slide going halfway and hanging up. Next, the boots on the slides only go on 1 way there is a notch on the carbs for them. I would guess this would fix you up if not we can get deeper into it with air-fuel mix screw settings.good luck

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SOURCE: Rear Carb leaks fuel out of overflow

Hole in the float. It fills with gas, sinks and fails to stop the fuel flow

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SOURCE: i need to tune the carb on the Suzuki LT50 quad

start the mixture screw at around 1& 3/4 turns
the petcock will need a service!
aswell as flush the fuel tank & a new fuel filter!
as rust scale would be building up in the tank & going through the fuel system!!
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SOURCE: 2005 suzuki ozark 250, i told you it sat awhile

hi yes the one on the float also check the float height if it is adjustable you will tell if were the float needle sits there is a metal tab.if youn are getting white smoke you maye be burning oil make sure you havnt over filled the oil.i know this may sound sillyy but are you sure you never put diesel in the tank by mistake coz that will make it smoke a lot if the fuel feels oily and dosnt smell like petrol drain it out clean the carb agian and replace the spark plug

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SOURCE: Cant remove rear seat on my 2004 Intruder 800

I take it you have removed the rear bolt holing the rear of the rear seat to the body of the bike. The rear seat is then pulled rearwards and out of the rear hold on strap
The rear passenger hold on strap is then unbolted from the body of the bike. This will let the front seat by pulled rearward and then upwards to remove it as well.
hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 02, 2009

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Hey Dave,
thought I answered this already,,,??? Classic "brass kit" symptom! >>> You need a "brass kit".. this is the needle jet and the jet needle in the center of the carb. The jet needle is the thin needle that hangs down from the center of the slide... The needle jet is the "hole" that the jet needle slides into...Remove the carb, take the bowl off, remove the main jet, the needle jet holder should be able to be gently tapped out, the needle jet is a short brasspiece,, it comes out through the hole where the slide goes,,, reinstall the NEW needle jet, needle jet holder...(it may have a groove in it for correct location). once its seated, you can reinstall the main jet..NOW >> to install a new jet needle,,, remove the slide from the carb.. remove the spring and seat from the slide that holds the needle jet in place.. NOTE which groove the clip is in on the old needle.... (should be the middle one). re install the new needle, reinstall everything else and your atv WILL run fine for a long time..This is a common problem on ATV's..
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first things first, what kinda bike are we working on? you say 2000 250r i'm getting its a twin cylinder from your left piston remark...... my crystal ball is telling me it's a ex 250 ninja. Am i close? Ok moving i'm going off of just my ability to tuning blind. First the carb is more then a float and a blow to hold gas, its the step in proper tuning, It effects every part from idle to red line. there is alot happen in that little magic box. we will hit the basics. when you first remove the carb and your holding it in your hand, looking down the throat you dont see much, a slide, a needle, and some small wholes. the C.V. carb raises the slide with vacuum presser, the more you open the butterfly ( the round disk looking thing in the throat ) the more air the motor pulls in causing a vacuum lifting the slide pulling the needle out of the hole. Now remove the cap on the top of the carb, you'll find a spring, and the needle slide remove this. flip the carb over remove the float bowl, laying in front of you will see a float, ( the plastic part, older carb had metal floats) you'll need to remove this there is a pin you may need to tap on it with a pick BE-CAREFUL the posts will break easily, next the float needle will be next if it is not hooked to the float. the float needle sits in a seat, the float needle and seat make the valve that lets the gas into the float bowl, inspect the seat and float needle to make sure that they are not nicked. ok the main jet is the next, when your looking down at the carb it will the taller of the "stems" in the middle, there are a few parts in the stack. unscrew the main jet again be-careful they are brass and soft the main jet is going to have a hole in it make sure it is clean, the main jet is what feeds your beast when you start getting off idle. The idle jet is next, you'll find this jet IN the other " stem " you;ll need a smaller flat head and i cant stress the point be careful they are brass and WILL strip easy. remove this jet insure it is open. next is the air/fuel screw it will on the outside of the float bowl on the bottom, most likely one the front ( the part that goes to the motor) the factory puts a small alum. plug over it to do two things 1st keep people that dont know how to tune a carb from messing with it, 2nd keep people that dont know how to tune a carb from messing with it. the cap is most likely been removed due to the age of the bike. if it has been simply unscrew the screw. there will be a screw,a spring,a metal washer then a rubber washer. put then back this way. after you have it out take some carb cleaner and spray inside the hole you should see it come out the idle jet hole and a small hole inside the thoat of the carb. , now that its clean put it back together, all the right way. if you have more then one repeat, now the carbs are on the bike they need to be synchronized, this is something that most people cant do in there home shop. if your piston was going out you would know it makes a hell of a noise. your cylinder is most likely not firing. give it a whirl and let me know how it works
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There are a few things that could cause this problem, a dirty fuel filter, plugged tank vent, but most likely it is your carb adjustment.

Depending on which carb is used on that saw (EPA units have fixed jets and can not be adjusted).

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If opening the low speed jet doesn't solve the problem then the carb will have to be removed and cleaned and a carb kit installed.

Try that and let me know how that works for you.


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Was the bike sitting for a while? If so was there fuel left in the carburetor? It kind of sounds like your carb could use a good cleaning.
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Well, a couple things may be wrong.
1) debris could be lodged under the needle valve. Remove the float by gently slideing the float pin out, the needle will either slide out with the float or remain in the seat and a pair of needle nose pliers will help to retreave it. clean the seat and inspect the needle valve for damage.
*note that even the smalles debris can keep the needle from seating so take care during reassembly*

2)depending on the type of carb cleaner used, and the exact type of needle valve in your carbs, the needle valves may have been dammaged during the cleaning. Some carb cleaners can "eat" neoprene or rubber components in carbs. It is always best to fully disassemble them before cleaning, if you are not confident in your ability, have a pro do it for you.

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Lo Jason. No direct experience on 2000 R1, only later ones but this is what i know.

Prepare a nice, clean area first for stripping carbs down and 4 different containers for each individual carbs components.

Switch fuel-tap to OFF.

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Disconnect the throttle cables at the throttle-grip end, remove the choke-cable from the carbs, loosen the inlet-clamps (between carbs and head), take the fuel-pipe that feeds the carbs off at the pump end. Remove the whole bank of carbs, may take a bit of rocking back and forth (the carbs, not you).

Trying to keep the carbs roughly in the same plane as they were on the bike undo (one at a time) the drain screws at the bottom of the float-bowls to drain each carb (catch the petrol in a dish/jar etc).

You'll now need to remove each float-bowl to get at the jets and most likely the carb-tops to lift out the diaphragm/slide/jet-needle assemblies.

Best leave it there, sorry it's a bit sketchy but you're best investing in a Haynes/Clymer/Yamaha manual to get specifics 'cos you'll need specs to set/check settings on the carbs aside from the info in the jet-kit.

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1987 dodge 2 wd pickup

You might have to tap on the sides of the carb. Its float is sticking or the needle jet is stuck.May have to remove carb to clean but most of the time tapping on the carb in different places releases the stuck float or needle..Clean thoroughly with some good carb cleaner and some additive in tank if you do not want to remove carb..Works most of the time but in carb has to much old gas build up ur varnish it will stick again..Also make sure the choke is not sticking shut..Have a great day

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at

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