1998 Suzuki GSF 1200 Bandit S Logo

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Posted on Jun 14, 2009

How do I do a simple brake pad swap? Front on a 600cc bandit, for what that matters.

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  • Posted on Jun 14, 2009
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Easy. take a "C" clamp and squeeze the break piston all the way back in the caliper keeping the old brake pads on when u do it so u dont screw up the piston. then put the new pads on and reinstall the caliper. then pump up the brakes

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Front brakes aren't releasing properly. How can I fix this problem? Is it a matter of bleeding the brakes?

Lets start with some simple things since you just put on new pads, I assume the brakes worked properly prior.
First, what kind of pads to you install? Some abrasive pads will make a grinding noise till they wear in. You can help this by filing a small beveled edge all the way around the pad surface.
Second, did you adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder after installing the new pads? After pushing the caliper piston in to install the new pads there may be too much fluid in the resevoir now causing a constant pressure in the lines. Place a towel around the master cylinder and remove the top. If fluid runs over the top you may have found your problem. Use a baster or syringe to **** out any excess fluid.
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Front or rear brakes? The fronts are normal disc brakes, but the rears are drum. Basically, this means the fronts are super simple to swap out pads, but the rears... not so much.

For the fronts:
1) Secure the car. Park, Parking brake, chocks behind the rear wheels. (Unless you use a lift)
2) Break loose the lug nuts. (Do NOT remove them yet. ONLY break the torque on them.)
3) Jack the front of the car up. Alternatively, use a lift.
4) Remove wheels.
NOTE: Do NOT EVER disconnect the hose going to the calipers. Doing this, even for a moment, will require a full bleed of the break system. Failure to correctly bleed the air from the system will result in having either uneven breaking, NO breaks, or somewhere in between.
5) On the inboard side of the caliper there should be two bolts. (On some models the caliper itself has the bolts and you can remove one and service it without having to remove the assembly.) If needed, remove the assembly from the hub by removing the two bolts. Try not to kink/damage/be too rough on the brake hose. Securing it with a ziptie, string, or wire is a good idea.
6) You should now be able to simply remove the old pads from the calipers.
7) Put the new pads into the calipers and reassemble. It's a good idea to put some medium strength lock-tite on the bolts to help prevent them from backing out. Make sure these two bolts are torqued down securely as if they back off the caliper could come off while driving.
8) After installing new pads there may not be enough clearance to accommodate the rotor. You will need to very carefully retract the pistons back inside the caliper to get this clearance back. It will NOT be easy/quick, but be careful so as not to damage the piston.
9) Best practices dictate you should at a minimum have the rotors "turned" or simply replaced EVERY time you replace the brake pads. Doing this will help ensure maximum stopping power and longevity of both rotor & pad.
10) Once everything is back together and the car is on the ground follow the pad manufacturers "bedding" instructions.

If you are wanting to service the rears... that's another (much more complex and involved) matter. :(
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- Lift the back of the tank. I'm not sure the air filter can be accessed without removing the whole tank. If you have to remove it, it just slides back and up - there are no screws in the front of the tank. Pay attention not to disconnect the hoses/wires if you are just lifting the tank, or disconnect them all if you have to take the tank off.
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- Put everything back in reverse order.

Refer to the microfiche above for parts layout. This is a simple procedure that shouldn't take more than 30 minutes even with tank removal.
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The hard part is pressing the caliper piston abck into the caliper so you can get the new, thicker pads over the rotor. A large C Clamp works best.

SECTION 206-03: Front Disc Brake 2001 Villager Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Pads —Front Disc Brake Removal
  1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Remove the front disc brake caliper bolts. torx bit. T20?
  1. Support the front disc brake caliper from the front strut and spring assembly using mechanics wire.
  1. Remove the front disc brake pads.
    1. Remove the outboard front disc brake pad.
    1. Remove the inboard front disc brake pad.
Installation
  1. s1v~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Make sure the master cylinder reservoir does not overfill and spill brake fluid while retracting the front disc brake caliper piston.
    NOTE: It is necessary to fully retract the front disc brake caliper piston in the bore before installing the front disc brake pads.
    Install the front disc brake pads.
    1. Install the inboard front disc brake pad.
    1. Install the outboard front disc brake pad.
Caution. The outer pads are left and right. put left on driver side.
  1. Position the front disc brake caliper on the front-wheel knuckle and install the brake caliper pin bolts.
  1. s1v~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: It is necessary to depress the brake pedal several times to position the front disc brake caliper piston before driving the vehicle.
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