On non-trike bikes the rear brake reservoir is often on the side of the bike near the bottom. If your bike has a front brake reservoir it usually looks the same, except, like I said, on the size, but closer to the back/bottom of the bike - near the rear wheels.
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COMPLETE BRAKE SYSTEM NEEDS BLEEDING!, REMOVE BRAKE FLUID FILLER CAP TOP UP THE BRAKE FLUID IF LOW, RAISE THE VEHICLE & REMOVE THE WHEELS FOR EASE OF ACCESS THEN CRACK OFF THE BLEED NIPPLES ONE AT A TIME ATTACH HOSE TO A RECEPTACLE SUCH AS A JUG OR BUCKET & GET A FRIEND /WIFE/PARTNER/NEIGHBOR TO PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL ON EACH BRAKE, WHEN NO AIR BUBBLES ARE SEEN & BRAKE FLUID RUNS CONTINUOUSLY REMOVE HOSE & TIGHTEN BRAKE BLEED NIPPLE, DO THIS THREE MORE TIMES ONCE ON EACH CORNER, NOT FORGETTING TO KEEP TOPPING UP THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR OTHERWISE YOU WILL GET MORE AIR IN THE LINES & HAVE TO START ALL OVER AGAIN, ONCE DONE PUT THE WHEELS BACK ON , LOWER THE VEHICLE, MAKE SURE THE RESERVOIR IS AT THE RIGHT LEVEL & PUMP THE BRAKES A FEW TIMES, THE SPONGINESS WILL HAVE DISSIPATED & YOUR BRAKES WILL BE MUCH MORE RESPONSIVE.
YOU NEED TO COMPRESS THE CALIPER PISTON USING SPECIAL TOOL 09580 - 3400 OR YOU CAN USE A LARGE C CLAMP AND THE OLD BRAKE SHOE NEXT TO CALIPER PISTON.BE SURE TO SIPHON OUT 1/3 BRAKE FLUID OUT OF THE MASTER CYLINDER BEFORE COMPRESSING CALIPER PISTON BACK IN THE CALIPER BORE.WHEN YOU FINISH REPLACING REPLACING REAR BRAKE SHOES.MAKE SURE BRAKE MASTERCYLINDER RESERVOIR COVER BACK ON RESERVOIR BACK IN PLACE.THEN PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SEAT BRAKE SHOES AGAINST ROTORS AND UNTIL YOU GET FIRM SOLID BRAKES.THEN CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL.DONT DRIVE CAR IF BRAKE PEDAL FEEL SOFT NOT FIRM.CHECK FOR LEAKING BRAKE HOSE OR LEAKING CALIPER PISTON SEAL.
hi this is a two person fix! firstly make sure ther is enough brake fluid in the reservoir .1st man needs to be in vechicle pumping brake up and down 5 or six times. 2 nd man needs to be at rear of vehicle furthest away from reservoir.(brake master) i.e reservoir on driver side , start on passenger side.! tell him to hold the pedal down to the floor and undo bleed nipple.tighten nipple and tell him to pump again. repeat until fluid with a steady flow out of nipple. makes sure you keep cheking fluid!! then move to other side of the rear and repeat, then do the front in the same order.... you must blead all four brakes to remove all traces of air.. cheers......pablo1 @ TheClutchCentre.com
Hi, you are right the rear is for the rear,the best thing is to pull both rear wheels off and remove drums that way you are looking at the wheel cylinder and then you will know if that is your problem,some times when they leak you cant see it with out pulling drums off. If no problem there check around master cylinder for leaks and around brake booster inside truck. Then if you still have no sign of fluid take the two nuts off master cylinder and see if leak is in side booster is wet.
If need more info please re post.
Thanks dodge tec
replace the bulb...??? This requires you remove the rear package deck (to access the bulb & socket). to do this, remove the seat bottom (two bolts hold the rear seat bottom to the chassis, then remove the bolts which hold the shoulder cushions (LH & RH - 12mm bolts) then remove the cosmetic molding around the trunk access (7 to 8 screws) then remove the "C" pillar covers (SRS curtain airbag LH & RH) to access the rear deck package & access the third brake lamp bulb. replace it, then reassemble.
One, take your brake fluid reservoir cap off.
Two, use a thin piece of wood to help you compress the piston on the caliper....do it slow. This way, you don't create a lot of pressure to the reservoir and it won't overflow.
Three, these are the steps to removing and replacing the pads for the rear. It does mention a special tool....but you can use a c-clamp for the same purpose:
Check the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If required, remove the fluid until the brake master cylinder reservoir is half full.
CAUTION Care must be taken when servicing rear brake components without disconnecting the parking brake cable from the brake caliper lever.
Remove the disc brake caliper. Support the caliper with mechanic's wire.
CAUTION When the brake pads are separated from the brake caliper, new brake pads must be installed. The brake pads are one-time use only.
Remove and discard the brake pads and spring clips from the brake caliper anchor plate.
NOTE: Do not remove the anchor plate guide pins. The guide pins are press fit to the brake caliper anchor plate. If the guide pins are damaged a new anchor plate must be installed.
Inspect the brake caliper anchor plate assembly.
Check the guide pins and boots for binding or damage.
Install a new brake caliper anchor plate if it is worn or damaged.
To Install: NOTE: The left caliper piston turns clockwise and the right caliper piston turns counterclockwise.
Using the special tool, turn and compress the brake caliper piston into the cylinder.
Clean the residual adhesive from the brake caliper fingers and pistons using the specified brake parts cleaner.
CAUTION Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other contaminants to contact the brake pad or caliper mating surface. Do not install contaminated pads. NOTE: Install all the new hardware supplied with brake pad kit.
Install the new spring clips and brake pads.
Position the brake caliper and install the 2 bolts. Tighten caliper bolts to 23 ft-lbs (31 Nm).
If necessary, fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean brake fluid.
With the engine running, apply pressure on the brake pedal to seat the brake pads.