Question about 2004 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat Boy
Started for awhile then shut off. Now it won't start.
First check for spark by using a known good plug and laying it on cylinder head while cranking. Leave the original plugs in. Do NOT remove them for this test. If no spark then either crankshaft position sensor or the ECU or the coil or system relay or fuses or wiring is faulty. If you do not have good electrical knowledge to check these out, bring it to a dealer. If good spark, then fuel must be the problem. Check to see if fuel pump runs for a few seconds when turning bike on. You shoud hear the pump running for a few seconds then stop. If the pump does not run, check system relay and fuel pump fuses. Note - the pump will only run once when turned on/off every few seconds. Bike needs to be off for at least ten seconds for next pump cycle. Check to see if faults codes are stored in ECU memory as these may lead you to the cause.
Posted on Mar 21, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Probably not .... Run it about 100 miles and pull the plugs... if they look OK ( not ash white for too hot or black for too much fuel) you should be OK ....
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.
To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.
Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.
Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.
Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.
Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
Your bike is fuel injected. This means that there are basically no user adjustable components in the fuel system. You must take this to a dealer to get the idle speed set. You might also have a vacuum leak somewhere causing it to change. As for the one time it shut off at highway speed, I wouldn't worry about it unless it started doing it again. Mine did that once. Turned out I had inadvertantly hit the "run/stop" switch.
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
on the right side follow the hose at the bottom of oil tank to where it hitches to the frame and on the bottom of frame you will find the drain bolt.
Posted on Mar 28, 2010
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