Question about 2003 Yamaha YZ 125
My kick start locks up then when u kick it harder then usual it releases then after a minute or so of kicking it locks up again, and it also has no compression
This happened with my sons pw50 where the piston ring had snapped and when it locked it was stuck bewteen the piston & bore
i would seek a shop or mechaninc to look at the top end and isnpect the piston & rings for wear or damage
dont keep kicking as this could result in further damage
Posted on Mar 20, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem on my 01 WR426 just recently after having it transported from Sydney to Perth. Valve clearances were within spec. I removed the head and poured a solvent down the intake and exhaust ports as detailed in the repair manual and found two valves on the intake side and one valve on the exhaust side leaking. After removing the valves I found small carbon deposits on the seats causing the leakage. I relapped them with the fine paste, reinstalled and found they held on both sides. At the same time I checked the rings in accordance with the repair manual and found them outside the standard spec but within tolerance and therefore replaced the rings as a set also (the piston and cylinder were still in spec and original hone marks were still evident on the bore). After replacing the head and the cylinder and installing the spark plug I kicked it over and had the compression back again (I can put my entire bodyweight on the starter and it will not budge at TDC). Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
SOURCE: yz 250 4-stroke It's extremely hard to kick over, so it has a pressure release lever on the handle bar. Is there some "proper" way to kick it over, or do I just kick it while holding the "pressure rel
That lever is a compression release and pulling it will make kick stating an excersie routine. Kick start without the pulling the lever. See how that works. good luck.
Posted on May 29, 2009
SOURCE: is there a proper method to kick starting a 4-stroke? my bike has a pressure release... I've heard you kick it over while holding in the pressure release until you reach the engines TDC then give it a
Yes, there is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
As to the inability to keep the bike running, Clean the fuel system.
ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Be sure the gas cap vent hose is clear and the fuel petcock vent hose is clear. Check to see the fuel flows freely through the petcock.
Drain the carburetor. There should be a large screw on the bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine. At the back top left side of the carb is the TPS, Throttle Position Sensor. Do not remove the TPS from the carb. Rather, disconnect the TPS wire lead from the wiring harness.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the air screw on the outside back throat of the carb and spray into the screw hole as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
IMPORTANT > re-install but do not tighten the air screw down. Only screw it inward until it LIGHTLY seats. Now turn the air screw one and one half turns outward. Pay special attention to the pilot jet, aka > idle jet. It is located at the front edge of the carb. Turn the adjuster outward 1/2 turn. Put the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road. I suggest you install an in-line fuel filter between the petcock and carb.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.
This all sounds complicated, but right now it is a learning process for you. Pretty soon your friends will be asking YOU for advice.
Please top rate this solution. Thanks!
Posted on May 30, 2009
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